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Supercharger Whine

Old Feb 11, 2010 | 09:27 AM
  #21  
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Yeah, I'd love to add that sound to my LS4, but it ain't gonna happen.
 
Old Feb 12, 2010 | 01:13 AM
  #22  
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It very well could if you wanted to haha^^^^
 
Old Feb 13, 2010 | 10:07 AM
  #23  
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This is what a basic boosted 3800 sounds like (my Regal):
http://s51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...=rollrace1.flv
 
Old Feb 13, 2010 | 03:19 PM
  #24  
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Like everyone has said airbox...(I got my first ticket in the Monte after I put my new airbox in...I was loving the whine to much), smaller pulley, and porting. If you really want your m90 to whine...block off the noise ports on the bottem of the supercharger. If you take off your supercharger and turn it upside down you will see a big area where you can see rotors....there is a slot on each side of that...the only reason why they are there is to make the whine more quiet. If you can safely block those off that would make your m90 scream.
 
Old Feb 13, 2010 | 05:13 PM
  #25  
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If you can safely block those off that would make your m90 scream.
I've never been real crazy about doing that- if you weld it, you risk warping the case- especially being right there in the rotor area, that is a very tight tolerance area. If you epoxy it, I'd be worried about it falling into the engine. IMO not worth it just for a minor noise change.
 
Old Feb 13, 2010 | 09:33 PM
  #26  
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I agree...unless your intercooled, in which case I'd epoxy it and not worry about it. If the epoxy fails, it's only going to sit on your intercooler.
 
Old Feb 15, 2010 | 08:36 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by bumpin96monte
I've never been real crazy about doing that- if you weld it, you risk warping the case- especially being right there in the rotor area, that is a very tight tolerance area. If you epoxy it, I'd be worried about it falling into the engine. IMO not worth it just for a minor noise change.

I agree 100% that is why I said "If you can safely block it off" Now, I have seen someone that made a piece of metal that fits into the bottom of your supercharger that blocks them off....but it looks kinda thin for my liking. So, personally I will just deal with it the best I can and not really worry about trying to block them off.
 
Old Feb 15, 2010 | 10:31 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by bumpin96monte
I've never been real crazy about doing that- if you weld it, you risk warping the case- especially being right there in the rotor area, that is a very tight tolerance area. If you epoxy it, I'd be worried about it falling into the engine. IMO not worth it just for a minor noise change.
i like to see bumpin make a video of mc at wot bet that whipple will screeeeeeam.

full size ic, gen 5, 2.8 pulley will whine
 
Old Feb 16, 2010 | 12:42 AM
  #29  
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My brother in law just got a 02 Bonneville with the SC and the whine on it is loud with stock intake. Its all stock but it has a new rebult stock motor and trans. Im thinking its because it has a 170,000 miles on the car and original blower. Sounds like it has a smaller pulley but is only doing 7-8psi and thats stock. I did the boost bypass mod to it and ya could tell the difference! Smoked the tires a lot easier. I have driven My old SC/SS and brithany's SC/SS and neither one of them were as loud as this one. But those cars has under 30k miles.

Boost Bypass Valve
(Picture: L67)


Tools Needed:
1 - 3/8 Drive Ratchet
1 - 3/8 Drive Small Extension
1 - 3/8 Drive 10mm Universal Socket
(Picture: Tools Needed)


Instructions:

Step 4: Raise hood.

Step 5: Locate the Supercharger Boost Bypass Valve. It is the black cylindrical object to the left of the supercharger, above the front valve cover.

Step 6: Move the large set of wires aside from in front of the valve cover. They are held in place by a metal clip that is easily undone.

Step 7: Find the first 10mm nut, located just in front of the Bypass Valve, and loosen nut. DO NOT REMOVE!

Step 8: Find the other two 10mm nuts; they are located BEHIND the Bypass Valve, on the supercharger housing.

Step 9: Loosen these two 10mm nuts. DO NOT REMOVE! The first nut can be accessed from the left side of the Bypass Valve, the other one is a little trickier, and can be accessed from the right side.

Step 10: Once all three nuts are loosened, gently apply pressure in a downward motion to the Bypass Valve. You will notice it may move as much as one-half inch.

Step 11: While pushing down on the Bypass Valve, retighten the three nuts, in the order you loosened them. First the right side, then the left, and then the front.

Step 12: Re-clip the large set of wires back into the metal clip.

Step 13: Close hood.

Notes:
Essentially what this free mod does is close the Supercharger’s Boost Bypass Valve sooner than set from the factory. This allows the boost to build quicker, this does not give you more boost. Since the Bypass Valve is not robotically set form the factory, it may be placed higher or lower for some, than others. Some people have noticed significant gains from it, and others have experienced nothing at all. I hope you had fun doing this mod, and hopefully you notice something. I had fun writing this, and taking all the new pictures!
 

Last edited by SIC LSX; Feb 16, 2010 at 12:45 AM.
Old Feb 16, 2010 | 12:53 AM
  #30  
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