Supercharger for 03' SS

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#41

08-09-2009, 12:30 AM

bumpin96monte

Join Date: Feb 2008

Posts: 6,142

Quote:

With the cost of head gaskets, manifold gasket, supercharger gasket, fluids, throttle body gasket, you're going to be at at least $600 IF you can find quality junkyards parts to use. That's not factoring in the cost of your necessary tune, too- figure you're going to pay someone at least $100 (or spend a few hundred yourself for HP Tuners). I know plenty of folks who have top swapped, thinking it was going to end up being a few hundred dollar investment, only to find themselves nickled and dimed into much more.

Usually the people who go way over budget are those who either A) don't know what all they need up front, and have to make emergency purchases during the swap for parts they missed or B) people who want the parts now instead of waiting to collect them bit by bit.

Really, as I said above- I've seen most of the top swap parts go for next to nothing- and many people are willing to give some stuff away for free because its borderline wortheless (like an L67 balancer, stock fuel rails, tensioner and front end pullies, stock L67 TB, etc)- I know I've personally thrown out a L67 balancer (and flex)- and a set of stock rails because I couldn't get anyone to even pay $5 + shipping. Also, with gaskets, a lot of times if you watch long enough, you'll find people that were collecting parts for a build and have to sell everything due to a bad situation- and so sometimes you can score gaskets NIB for 20-50% off the stores depending how desparate they are for cash. clubgp's for sale section FTW

Quote:

You make it sound way too easy. I'm sure after tuning a few dozen cars it's no problem (with access to a dyno and a wideband), but for a novice it's a daunting task and one that I'm not interested in tackling.

I'll admit, I'm a novice to the overall tuning world- I've only used my DHP on 3800s, and seen a few LSx's done on HPT- but I really don't see how any other FI car would be any different. I mean, its just a matter of scanning your fuel trims and making adjustments to whichever fuel table you're working on (VE for MAP or MAF AF for MAF) to make those trims come back as close to 0 as possible. As far as timing goes, its just bumping it up in at points on the map where you have no knock, and backing it off a little where you have knock at each rpm/load point. If I'm wrong- please give me insight on this, I've never messed with tuning outside of GM stuff- maybe Fords, or imports are different?

#42

08-10-2009, 12:30 PM

03SS/00GSE/93LX

Join Date: Aug 2009

Posts: 565

Quote:

for future searchee's, the new NGK plugs did not eliminate the cold start issue's altogether, but it did stop my misfires by a lot during cold startup. used to see around 40, now only see a number under 10 before the counter resets.

edit: been 2 days, which equals 2 cold starts. both have been fine no loopy idle. maybe it did go away with the new plugs. i also swapped out my coil packs to MSD yesterday too. give them a shot see what happens. the most my idle loops is maybe 2 or 300 rpm, not major at all considering it used to virtually stall out.

Did your cold start problems show up right away, or after driving for a few days/weeks?

My SS M90 kit is on- I'm running a staggered setup with Autolite 104s in the end cylinders and Autolite 103s in the center (this is a proven setup on L67s)- the car is firing right up for me each time (on the stock L36 PCM- ZZP shipped me the wrong PCM).