Hey Guys I know I need new engine, tranny, and motor mounts. I was thinking about doing all of them the poly. What do you think?

 

True Poly might be a bit too stiff, causing noise and vibration you're not a custom too (I've been curious though how big a difference it makes).
Black Friday, WbodyStore sold a sweet kit with Poly (or I think dense rubber) solid dog bone and radiator mounts. It ALSO came with solder rubber trans and lower motor mounts (instead of the factory hydraulic mounts). I have one of these kits, right now I'm focusing on using the radiator and dog bone mounts. After that, I might go forward with the trans and motor mounts. One step at a time.

FYI - Hydraulic mounts can look like solid rubber, but really have a hollow center filled with oil.

 

I agree, don't do poly, it will be tons of vibration..

Go with solid mounts

 

Ok so which ones should I do poly and what should i not do? I was thinking deff trany being poly because it gives more hood clearance and mabe engine mounts poly but then motor solid rubber? does that sound better? Im used to shaking anyways because of the cam and everything so a little more wont bother me.

 

Unfortunately, I think WBodyStore only puts that kit I got out on black friday (otherwise you have to buy the stuff separately). Personally, I like the idea of solid rubber engine/trans mounts over poly. If you do that, check RockAuto.com (last I knew they had both solid rubber AND the hydraulic mounts, far cheaper then the 3800 performance stores). Now I am not sure how good "true" poly is on the dog bone and radiator mounts, but the kit I got from WBS on black friday, those bushings don't feel like poly to me, they feel like rubber (which I'm happier about). I want to see how a solid rubber radiator mount bushing feels vs the one GM uses.

I think solid rubber will deliver the desired "performance" factors while still offering some level of vibration absorption.

Just food for thought.

BTW - I upgrades my sway bar and end links to true poly last year. Did not notice any change (probably because my original bushings were not too heavily worn). But they look good behind the wheels!!

 

Intense-Racing.com for poly motor mounts ... upper radiator & bones.

----> INTENSE-Racing.com: INTENSE High Performance Polyurethane Upper Motor Mounts Package <----

 

I wouldn't buy the poly mounts from a vendor because they are overpriced. You can make a set pretty easily and they will be just as good.

Even the solid mounts that are sold at stores and through vendors are a crap shoot. You have to shake them to see if they are fluid filled. Sometimes even when they say that they are solid on the box they are still fluid filled. I have also read that sometimes when they say solid that they are not solid but just don't have fluid and still have the empty cavity for the fulid making them actually worse than the fluid filled mounts.

In my own experience I ordered and shook several mounts before I got a set of motor and trans mounts that I could not hear fluid in them. I even drilled into them to see if they were solid and guess what...fluid came out.

At that point I decided to make my own mounts. First you have to drill them to drain the fluid out. Here is picture of where to drill (The red dots). You want to drill at a slight inward angle towards the center of the mount:

PS- The mount on the left is a supposedly solid mount from ZZP.


I can be tricky to get all the fluid out but if you have a smaller diameter hallow tube to jam into both ends that you drilled, it will make it easier to drain out. You want to make sure to get all the fluid out. A little fluid is ok because what you decide to fill the mounts with will push some of the residual fluid out.

At this point you have to decide what you want to fill the mounts with. You want to look at the hardness or (Shore) rating of the filler you are going to use for the mounts. Most people that have done this have used 3M window weld which can be bought at most auto parts stores (This will be pretty close to the poly mounts sold at the vendors). You want the large tubes like this that fit into a caulk gun:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-08609-Windo...4220391&sr=8-1

The other option that I actually choose was to fill the mounts with RTV. The RTV will give a slightly softer but still a solid feel to the mounts (Again, if you want the caulk gun style tube):

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81173...220505&sr=1-15

Once you decide what you want to fill them with you can start by pumping the filler into one of the holes you made at the top of the mount. It can go into hard but that is the reason you have the caulk gun (Hopefully a decent one that won't just bend into a pretzel). Once you see the filler coming out the opposite side you can go to that side and fill from there. The point here is to get the mount evenly filled up.

You also need to fill the bottom of the mount. This can be done by taping or plugging the hole shown in the picture and filling it up (from the middle) untill you seem in coming out of the other holes (on the sides) like this:



At this point you should have the mount filled. Some people also put some of the filler on the top of the mounts like these examples:




Once the mounts are finished they need to cure. Some people have said 2 weeks to be safe or a month to be super safe. Once cured you can install them just like any other mount.

 

Hey yellowjacket just curious as to what method you ended up going with for your mounts? Just wondering guys if anyone has really even used the poly tranny mount from zzp? I've seen a couple guys on ZL1tech install the zzp poly tranny mount and say there is no vibration difference at all has anyone even tried using this yet? I have the upper poly engine mounts allrdy and the vibration is not an issue to me at all so I'd be very willing to install the poly tranny mount and engine mount just curious if the ngine poly mount is the same issue has anyone tried using this? What is tha advantage to using just the solid mounts instead I'm going to be going turbo very soon and I'd like to run all poly, are the mounts pure2sin showed worth doing the work is that a better choice then even the poly?

 

From what I have heard, people have cracked the ZZP poly mounts. The reason for making your own is:

-They are cheaper.
-Its poly injected inside with rubber in between so less likely to crack.

 

Hey, sorry guys I have been at a stand still lately. Gotta love it when life throws you a curve ball. Had to replace my entire power steering and cooling system so money got a little low. lol. But I decided that I'm going to wait to do the mounts for when I get a new tranny which is needed. Thought it would hold up with new engine and new power but it cant. Oh well live and learn. Just been taking it easy on the car till I can catch up and buy it. But I will b doing the poly trans and upper mounts.