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Needing to replace LIM and UIM gaskets

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  #11  
Old 03-13-2012, 11:02 PM
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What cleaner are you guys using to clean the wall at the front and rear of the engine and the ends of the LIM manifold where you lay the RTV sealant?

I've seen brake cleaner and Acetone mentioned.
 
  #12  
Old 03-14-2012, 06:10 AM
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Carb cleaned and a rag. You need to ensure the surface is "degreased", other wise the RTV won't bond and if it doesn't bond, you don't have a good seal.
 
  #13  
Old 03-14-2012, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by The_Maniac
Carb cleaned and a rag. You need to ensure the surface is "degreased", other wise the RTV won't bond and if it doesn't bond, you don't have a good seal.
How would that compare to using brake cleaner or Acetone? The RTV is leaking oil on mine, so whatever the shop used to clean up didn't work.
 
  #14  
Old 03-14-2012, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by jasonsmith
How would that compare to using brake cleaner or Acetone? The RTV is leaking oil on mine, so whatever the shop used to clean up didn't work.
I suppose the products are about the same. You need something that can degrease the area. The shop that did it before may not have done anything to prep the surfaces, they may have put too little of the RTV down, any list of things.

Make sure when you are done, you change the oil. I recommend changing the oil again in about 100-300 miles (help get any fluid crap that went in the engine OUT at that time).
 
  #15  
Old 03-17-2012, 03:44 AM
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Originally Posted by The_Maniac
I suppose the products are about the same. You need something that can degrease the area. The shop that did it before may not have done anything to prep the surfaces, they may have put too little of the RTV down, any list of things.

Make sure when you are done, you change the oil. I recommend changing the oil again in about 100-300 miles (help get any fluid crap that went in the engine OUT at that time).
Yeah, I think you want something to degrease and remove all traces of oil, etc. that doesn't leave any residue behind.

How much RTV should go down? I've also read of some say not to put down too much. I know you want to put a dab in the corner before you lay the LIM gasket down.
 
  #16  
Old 03-17-2012, 09:49 PM
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I usually find myself using almost the entire tube (if not the entire tube) of what Fel-Pro gives with the LIM gasket kit. I think you said you have a 3800, if so, your kit should have the LIM gasket for both heads and a valley gasket (a rubber bar like piece). I like to "dry fit" the gasket pieces and make sure they fit (that I don't have something stupid to make a problem, like a piece of nylon/plastic stuck in a peg hole). And a dry fit of the LIM helps ensure you know how you have to set it down on the first crack.

All that being said, on the 3800, before seating and gaskets, put a dab on the corners of the valley. Next, seat the LIM gaskets on the heads. THen I like to run a bead from the lower corner of the LIM gasket across the valley and to the other LIM gasket. Then seat the rubber valley gasket. repeat the same process for a final bead. DON'T go crazy in the corners (as you already have that "dab" you started with). All this is doing is making sure the valley has a good seal. You should be able to get all these RTV applications out of the one tube given with the gasket set (if not, you went over board). If you have some left over, see if you were a little too thin somewhere, and if it all looks good, cap the tube and decide if you have enough to be worth saving (doubtful) or toss it.
 
  #17  
Old 03-21-2012, 06:43 PM
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Location: Illinois
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Heya, just as a pointer (a week ago I asked this same question) I'll put the instruction link I received and my flickr page. LIM Gasket & Head Gasket Change Walkthrough & FAQ (3400) - Florida GM Club < Me being totally ignorant to MOST of the engine, Trewyn gave me these step by step instructions, me and my equally un-trained gf have had a very easy time and I'm sure (i havent done my own research) you could find one just as good (IDK if you need it, just giving it out) Edit: I used this for a 3.1L V6, but its for a 3400, i forgot to mention it may not be same engine, but the website COULD help)

Secondly, Flickr: NewFish24's Photostream

Thats my flickr link, Just for "Organizational Purpose" I put all bolts from EACH part in seperate bags, taped, and labeled them, same w/ hoses, wires, connections, etc etc, i used my back seat and trunk for stashing the bigger parts, and you can also see how close to critical I was to blowing my engine from all the pretty yellow gunk in there. Just thought I'd share what was shared with me, hope your quicker at it than we are! Just got my parts today, WOOT!
 
  #18  
Old 03-21-2012, 10:18 PM
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In general terms a 3100 and 3400 is the same engine. Same block, but the 3400 has some tweaks (like bigger cylinders, larger throttle body, flows more air).

But most 3100 and 3400 general service knowledge is equal.
 
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