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  #11  
Old 05-23-2010, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by TheMonteMan
should be pretty cheap. if you look on the top rear driver side of the block youll find the casting numbers. and on mortech they have all the numbers on there. it should tell you what year and what motor it is and what car it came out of. did you get just the bare block or is it a complete short block or long block?
Its complete, still together.
 
  #12  
Old 05-23-2010, 03:46 PM
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thats good. check the casting numbers on the block and if you pull of the valve covers you can find out what heads your dealing with. theyre probably small valves. why did he get rid of it so cheap?
 
  #13  
Old 05-23-2010, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by TheMonteMan
thats good. check the casting numbers on the block and if you pull of the valve covers you can find out what heads your dealing with. theyre probably small valves. why did he get rid of it so cheap?
He picked it up from a napa store, a core motor it sounds like, he was going to put it in a 55 Chevy, but decided to buy a crate motor instead, just wants it gone.

So i have another question. I was under there, seeing if i could drill out a broken starter bolt, and forgot to look but.... I dont know if it has a TH250, or a TH350. Will the 350 bolt up to a TH250? If so, will a TH250 be destroyed eventually by the extra torque and HP of the 350?

The 350 will be stock though. I assume the 350 engine mounts are in a different area of the block, as the V6 sits way back in there, so i assume if the transmissions are the same length, i dont have to shorten the drive shaft?

This V6 sure seems like it was the red headed step child engine from GM, only made for two yrs. all the articles say the 200 3.3 is just a 350 with the 3 and 6 cylinder removed. So why is this distributer in the front, at a angle, and all the articles say the dip stick is on the right, when this one is on the driver side/

Did they really borrow this motor from Buick or Olds

Is there a site somewhere that has all the interchangeabilty for GM cars?
 

Last edited by rp23g7; 05-24-2010 at 12:28 PM.
  #14  
Old 05-24-2010, 02:17 PM
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the th250 should bolt up to the 350. i had mine bolted to my 400. it should survive behind that 350. there wasnt anything wrong with my 250 when i went to a 350 i was just looking to upgrade. idk if the 3.3 is based off of the 350 or a buick or olds motor. i thought that the 4.3 was the v6 that had the 2 cylinders cut off? heres a link with gm trans identification evidently the 250/350 run the same pan and are externally identical. heres some info on them.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...identification
i always thought that the pans were similar and that the 250 is short a clutch pack. the lengths should be the same so no need to mess with the driveshaft. when i switched i had to shorten mine cause i went from the 250 to a long tail 350.
 
  #15  
Old 05-24-2010, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by TheMonteMan
the th250 should bolt up to the 350. i had mine bolted to my 400. it should survive behind that 350. there wasnt anything wrong with my 250 when i went to a 350 i was just looking to upgrade. idk if the 3.3 is based off of the 350 or a buick or olds motor. i thought that the 4.3 was the v6 that had the 2 cylinders cut off? heres a link with gm trans identification evidently the 250/350 run the same pan and are externally identical. heres some info on them.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...identification
i always thought that the pans were similar and that the 250 is short a clutch pack. the lengths should be the same so no need to mess with the driveshaft. when i switched i had to shorten mine cause i went from the 250 to a long tail 350.
thanks Monte man
 
  #16  
Old 05-25-2010, 03:44 PM
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np. your not going to do a cam or head swap on that motor? i would at least do a cam while you have it out of the car. nothing crazy just something with a little lift. its a pain doing it once its in the car.
 
  #17  
Old 05-25-2010, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by TheMonteMan
np. your not going to do a cam or head swap on that motor? i would at least do a cam while you have it out of the car. nothing crazy just something with a little lift. its a pain doing it once its in the car.
No, just a stock rebuild. 21 yr old driver doesnt need any more than that for now.
 
  #18  
Old 05-25-2010, 11:09 PM
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lol true story. my old man felt the same way when i was 17 i proved him wrong though. we all want to go fast. if you dont mind me suggesting. this is similar to the cam i went with a few years back with a 650 vacuum secondary carb and a performer intake in my 400. the car maybe made 270hp with it. it didnt have any compression and with the small valve heads wasnt really fast, but made for a good cruiser that was reliable,with a little pep, and didnt even sound like it had a cam. the factory cam in mine was under 400 lift so you can imagine it was a vast improvement. anyway just a suggestion.

http://northernautoparts.com/Product...tModelId=11093
 
  #19  
Old 05-26-2010, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by TheMonteMan
lol true story. my old man felt the same way when i was 17 i proved him wrong though. we all want to go fast. if you dont mind me suggesting. this is similar to the cam i went with a few years back with a 650 vacuum secondary carb and a performer intake in my 400. the car maybe made 270hp with it. it didnt have any compression and with the small valve heads wasnt really fast, but made for a good cruiser that was reliable,with a little pep, and didnt even sound like it had a cam. the factory cam in mine was under 400 lift so you can imagine it was a vast improvement. anyway just a suggestion.

http://northernautoparts.com/Product...tModelId=11093

Looks like a nice cam, may try it out. He is more into the looking good down low thing. He has a pretty good stereo and some wire wheels, we are going to focus on a better eletical system and a reliable engine, get some lowering springs for it (sigh). He wants to do the hydraulic thing to it, hes on his own for that though.
 
  #20  
Old 05-26-2010, 11:22 AM
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Dang, the 350 deal got hosed, the guy took the heads off and there is a cracked combustion chamber in on head, and 3 cracked walls, probably from over heating, probably why it was a NAPA as a core.

Oh well, probably just rebuild that V6, at least we have everything for it, with the 350 we would have to buy a carb, headers or exhaust, fuel pump and probably assessory brackets and linkages. Oh well.

Can I buy 350 stuff for it though, like a set of valve springs, the set for a 350 at Nothern auto, springs, keepers seals and all is $119, the v6 set is twice as much. Isnt that v6 a 350 with 3 and 6 cylinder cut off? Sigh
 


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