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Engine Temps

Old Mar 7, 2014 | 03:05 PM
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Default Engine Temps

Quick question, I just rebuilt the engine on my 2000 LS. New radiator, 185 degree tstat, new hoses, new radiator cap, new 50/50 green/yellow coolant, fairly new coolant temp sensor, and i flushed the block.

It wants to run at a consistent 210-220 degrees. is that normal? I dont remember it always running that hot even when i has a 195 tstat.
Is that the normal operating temp? (florida 80 degrees ambient temp)

No engine codes, no other major mods. just a really good CAI, l67 coils, iridium plugs, and catback.

Also does anyone know what the normal operating temp of the transmission fluid should be?

Thanks, Jordan
 
Old Mar 7, 2014 | 03:27 PM
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What's the really good CAI?

Do you have a scanner connected viewing the actual temp? Or are you basing it off of the gauges. The gauge can be a little off.

Also 210-220 your fans would be both on constantly, are they on?
 
Old Mar 7, 2014 | 04:43 PM
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Heres a suggestion..Lets presume the in car temp gauge is correct...

How many times did you bleed the air out of the system?

It sometime takes up to 10 or more times... to remove all the air out of the cooling system.

Also if you did bleed the air out of the cooling system...Did you do it while it was running? Or did you run it up to temp and then shut it off and bleed the air out?

An air pocket in the cooling system could cause those kinds of temps.
 
Old Mar 7, 2014 | 09:05 PM
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^^ I second the air pocket in the cooling system.
 
Old Mar 7, 2014 | 09:45 PM
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I have an aeroforce scan gauge and ODB2 software on my laptop.

Chibi- Well its a Wizaired from ZZP, i upgraded it by lining it with dynaliner, sealing the edges and cutting the splashguard to allow it to pull straight from the outside air. ive never seen the temp break 25 above ambient.
Im pretty sure the fans kick on just fine. They should be running ALL the time at any temp over 200? or is it 220? (Both in park and in drive right)

Stumpmi & Turbo-
i honestly dont remember how i bled it, i remember a certain procedure and something about throttle burps (to like 3000rpm). I cant find where i read it.
i only had to bleed it like 3 times or 4. by then fluid would squirt out of both bleeds. Anyone know the Correct procedure? any way NOT to get the engine bay soaked? lol

Could the water pump be slipping due to a bad tensioner? (im pretty sure i have a bad tensioner anyway) probably air though...
 
Old Mar 8, 2014 | 08:18 AM
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At 212 your fans should turn on.

I'm just trying to think why the coolant doesn't seem to be doing its job. The air pockets I would suspect, if hitting the throttle makes the temp go down.

Maybe the green coolant is sludging up because the dex wasn't completely out of the system? Those 2 do not mix.

It is possible if you have belt slippage that the pump isn't working great.
 
Old Mar 8, 2014 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ChibiBlackSheep
At 212 your fans should turn on.

I'm just trying to think why the coolant doesn't seem to be doing its job. The air pockets I would suspect, if hitting the throttle makes the temp go down.

Maybe the green coolant is sludging up because the dex wasn't completely out of the system? Those 2 do not mix.

It is possible if you have belt slippage that the pump isn't working great.
The fans def kick on at 212.

There was ZERO Dex in the system i had it flushed years ago. plus i replaced all the cooling components (Literally everything...) except the block itsself lol (which i flished while the heads were off, and cleaned the water jackets) so its def not sludging.

Well i need to replace the tensioner for sure. The Water pump is 3 years old, 50k miles. I wouldnt think its bad...

Do you know what the proper Coolant bleed procedure is?
 
Old Mar 8, 2014 | 12:09 PM
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To anyone- lol
Whats the normal Trans temp supposed to be?
 
Old Mar 13, 2014 | 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by STUMPMI
Heres a suggestion..Lets presume the in car temp gauge is correct...

How many times did you bleed the air out of the system?

It sometime takes up to 10 or more times... to remove all the air out of the cooling system.

Also if you did bleed the air out of the cooling system...Did you do it while it was running? Or did you run it up to temp and then shut it off and bleed the air out?

An air pocket in the cooling system could cause those kinds of temps.
I just got done with a swap and we bled the system while it wasnt running, and while it was running. i have awesome heat, but while i was test driving it the gauge would read real low. like only 2 lines up. if i let it sit it would go up 2 more lines but NEVER reached the center line. could you explain the best way to bleed the system?
Transmission temps...i tried to find an answer. i looked in my book, searched google..came up with nothing. prob gona have to call a trany shop to ask them
 
Old Mar 31, 2014 | 11:43 AM
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Okay so ive tried everything! Im 100% confident that there are no air pockets in the system. The car consistently runs between 210-220 while driving. (fans always on chibi) As soon as i park and let it run for 3-4-5 min the temp is back down to 195 ish.

Every time i pull the rad cap off to check the level, i need to add like 8 ounces... I have no leaks that i can find. everything id dry under the car. I dont see the overflow bottle getting fuller. Where is the coolant going? I replaced the head gaskets 200 miles ago so i would hope the air isnt passing into the cooling sys from the cylinders...

Im at a loss... help?

This is what my scan gauge calls 217 degrees. look about right? (pic)
 
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