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  #11  
Old 06-01-2019, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by bumpin96monte
Depends on your plans for the car and what turbo you're going to run. I've got a 3000 in my monte and love it. It's probably looser than what I should've went with on a whipple car as its spending most of its time on the street, but it sure gets you into power fast.

For a turbo car, it's a pretty good middle of the road selection. But if you plan to do a more track oriented setup or plan to run a pretty big turbo, you may want to think about going even a bit higher.
What company makes a higher stall than 3K for the 4t65e?

Originally Posted by bumpin96monte
Do you have any engineering or fabrication training? That's a pretty serious undertaking. I had a high school friend try and build one off a GP body early in his adult life and ended up scrapping the whole project before it took its first trip around the block. The massive amount of time (and money to build 2 full engines and transmissions) is really tough.

If you're serious about going that route (beyond getting proper engineering and welding training), I'd just suggest buying 2 totally stock L36 (NA 3800) / 4t65 combos and getting that to work first. Last thing you want to do is to be fighting engine / trans problems due to mods you'd done on top of bugs from the conversion. Once you've got everything in and working, then itll be easier to start adding parts / building stuff up.
I don't have any training, but I do want to get a tig welder to do my own turbo piping anyway. I was going to do the R&D, so to speak, by getting a salvage car, and putting it's engine in the rear.
 
  #12  
Old 06-01-2019, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by WolvenScout
What company makes a higher stall than 3K for the 4t65e?
ATI used to make them, I'd imagine some vendors still have some stock as they were recently discontinued:

INTENSE Racing: ATI 245mm Street/Strip Heavy Duty Torque Converters

Here's another option for a current manufacturer recommended by the #1 4t65 shop in the country:
https://shop.tripleedgeperformance.c...kup-289XXX.htm

Circle D has converters for the LS4 so they could certainly make one with the right dimensions for a 3800.

You can literally pick whatever stall you want. Dont feel limited by the 2 options ZZP stocks today.

I don't have any training, but I do want to get a tig welder to do my own turbo piping anyway. I was going to do the R&D, so to speak, by getting a salvage car, and putting it's engine in the rear.
No offense, but I don't think it's a good idea at all. You're talking about completely redoing the dynamics and load paths through the car. Youre also talking about performing structural welds that hold the car together with no certification or formal training. Practicing on some pipe and just winging it on a salvage car isnt enough experience to do this properly.

If it was just something you were going to use at closed tracks, I'd be all for it. From your other posts, I think you intend to actually drive this on the road which makes me a lot more worried as now everyone else's life depends on hoping you did it right. Miscalculate how much load XYZ member can carry, or fail to get proper penetration on that member, and it could come apart on the road causing you to lose control and possibly kill someone (or multiple someones). What's worse is that no insurance company is going to cover this as you explained it, so the family of those injured / killed could be totally out of any kind of compensation after theyve run your bank accounts dry (which I'm sure wont cover the millions they'd be seeking).
 
  #13  
Old 06-04-2019, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by bumpin96monte
You can literally pick whatever stall you want. Dont feel limited by the 2 options ZZP stocks today.
Is there a huge difference in quality or something? The ones you pointed out we're almost three times as much as the ZZP converter.

Originally Posted by bumpin96monte
No offense, but I don't think it's a good idea at all. You're talking about completely redoing the dynamics and load paths through the car. Youre also talking about performing structural welds that hold the car together with no certification or formal training. Practicing on some pipe and just winging it on a salvage car isnt enough experience to do this properly.
I see your points, and I don't disagree with you that I should have at least some training. But the point of the salvage car is to test. I'd put it together, and use probably several heavy duty tie down straps to put load in different directions. I definitely wouldn't deem the vehicle road worthy unless I tested it until I felt it to be safe. Even after that, it would be tested on the track first.
 
  #14  
Old 06-04-2019, 10:01 PM
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[QUOTE=WolvenScout;717705]Is there a huge difference in quality or something? The ones you pointed out we're almost three times as much as the ZZP converter.

There is a significant difference in quality. Triple Edge uses converters built by this company. "Precision of New Hampton" Look at their "Standard Features" and then at their "Optional Features". Its the old saying you get what you pay for. Hughes Performance in Phoenix also generally has a great reputation for building a solid converter.


High Performance Torque Converters

Welcome to Hughes Performance - Hughes Performance
 
  #15  
Old 06-05-2019, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by WolvenScout
Is there a huge difference in quality or something? The ones you pointed out we're almost three times as much as the ZZP converter.
Yes, there is a difference. For how much power you're looking to make, you're going to need the best of the best parts in that trans to keep it alive. Feel free to shoot Triple Edge an email to ask about the converters they carry - they're super helpful. They're your best bet anyways for building a trans once you find the GMR parts.

The concern is if you dump $6 or 7k into a fully built GMR trans but put on a cheap converter that fails, it has the potential to send trash through the fluid that tears other stuff up.


I see your points, and I don't disagree with you that I should have at least some training. But the point of the salvage car is to test. I'd put it together, and use probably several heavy duty tie down straps to put load in different directions. I definitely wouldn't deem the vehicle road worthy unless I tested it until I felt it to be safe. Even after that, it would be tested on the track first.
As an engineer through education and through about 10 years or so of my career, that sounds pretty scary TBH. No offense, but without at least a mechanical engineering degree, I wouldn't think you'd be qualified to make the assertion that its safe. There is a lot of engineering effort and calculations that goes into chassis design and fabrication specs.


Certainly I was exaggerating a bit with my insurance comment, but that's probably not a bad place to start before you start hacking the car up. Probably should call around to some insurance companies, explain to them what you're looking to do, and see if they'll even cover it. You'll probably have to go with a specialty company to have any chance, and the rates might be very high.

You'd hate to get the whole thing done and then find out no one will insure it, lose the registration, and end up with a track only car if you were planning to drive it on the street.

I'm not so much talking about getting you coverage for money you spent on mods, as that's up to you if you're ok with losing some or all of the money you spent if it gets totalled. I'm talking more about liability insurance to meet at least the legal minimum for your state.

You probably want to consider insuring it for liability beyond state minimums. If your OEM vehicle has a chassis/suspension failure related to design / manufacturing, the people hurt will just go after GM. In your case with a DIY chopped up car, its completely your liability if that causes a wreck. I'd imagine even a single serious injury would meet or exceed state minimums. If it seriously hurts multiple people or you kill someone, it would be almost certain that the lawyers would be coming after you personally.
 

Last edited by bumpin96monte; 06-05-2019 at 05:47 PM.
  #16  
Old 06-06-2019, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by bumpin96monte
As an engineer through education and through about 10 years or so of my career, that sounds pretty scary TBH. No offense, but without at least a mechanical engineering degree, I wouldn't think you'd be qualified to make the assertion that its safe. There is a lot of engineering effort and calculations that goes into chassis design and fabrication specs.

Certainly I was exaggerating a bit with my insurance comment, but that's probably not a bad place to start before you start hacking the car up. Probably should call around to some insurance companies, explain to them what you're looking to do, and see if they'll even cover it. You'll probably have to go with a specialty company to have any chance, and the rates might be very high.

You'd hate to get the whole thing done and then find out no one will insure it, lose the registration, and end up with a track only car if you were planning to drive it on the street.

I'm not so much talking about getting you coverage for money you spent on mods, as that's up to you if you're ok with losing some or all of the money you spent if it gets totalled. I'm talking more about liability insurance to meet at least the legal minimum for your state.

You probably want to consider insuring it for liability beyond state minimums. If your OEM vehicle has a chassis/suspension failure related to design / manufacturing, the people hurt will just go after GM. In your case with a DIY chopped up car, its completely your liability if that causes a wreck. I'd imagine even a single serious injury would meet or exceed state minimums. If it seriously hurts multiple people or you kill someone, it would be almost certain that the lawyers would be coming after you personally.
Yeah, I see your points, and the insurance aspect definitely puts a damper on possibly street driving the car with regards to others safety. Thanks for your input as always.
 
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