Never heard of that...so I'm assuming your referring to the metal line the guy showed in the video ? Hell I need to find a guide on bypassing it lol..ill be doing it tomorrow probably..

 

Yea the metal line, can't bypass it as the metal line it what connects to the trans. Only other option is remove the fitting on the trans, eliminate the factory cooler, and use all braided hose with AN fittings. And that is a lot more money

 

So the rubber hose is basically useless ? lol

 

If you flare your metal line then you use the rubber hose.....

 

Is it needed to flare? lol I don't think I seen a thread about saying that before..this is all new. I thought everything just slid in and tighten up. @.@

 

Without flaring them you run the risk of them popping off

 

Doh I bought the https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with extra rubber hosing.....so that was a waste of ten bucks huh lol....so are you able to link me what I should use?

I'm assuming that if I use the radiator then the rubber is okay?

 

The rubber is fine with or without using the factory cooler. You are going to slide the rubber hose over the metal trans line when u cut it and clamp it on. I said flare the metal line once cut to prevent it from popping off is the only reason to flare it

 

You're never going to hold up to big power on a $2000 trans build. As mentioned above, the GM racing chain and sprockets alone goes for $1000+ and that's only one of many components.


As far as the trans cooler lines, I would also suggest doing a flare or something similar to help lock it int place, you definitely don't want to clamp rubber hose to just a bare metal tube. If that ever popped off and sprayed your front exhaust manifold with trans fluid, you're going to have a serious problem.

 

So it looks like the hose that came with is 5/16 and I ordered 3/8 so I gotta make a trip to napa to pick some up . Some folks use a Hayden 379 connection for input with the radiator line but I'm not sure if I'll do single or input.