6th Gen ('00-'05): 2 Brakes Have No Brake Pressure
#1
2 Brakes Have No Brake Pressure
So when bleeding my breaks, The Front Left and the Rear Right have insane pressure(If you pump the brake a few times and then open the bleeder), but the other 2 do not. Sure I can see the fluid flow out when someone is pumping the brake peddle, but there is no actual pressure build up. Thoughts?
#2
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,236
What happened to prompt bleeding the brakes? Caliper changes? Brake line blow out?
Sounds like you may have air in the line. Make sure the person operating the brake pedal is not pushing the pedal and releasing it while the bleed screw is open, otherwise it sucks air back in. Also make sure to periodically top of the brake fluid.
Sounds like you may have air in the line. Make sure the person operating the brake pedal is not pushing the pedal and releasing it while the bleed screw is open, otherwise it sucks air back in. Also make sure to periodically top of the brake fluid.
#3
What happened to prompt bleeding the brakes? Caliper changes? Brake line blow out?
Sounds like you may have air in the line. Make sure the person operating the brake pedal is not pushing the pedal and releasing it while the bleed screw is open, otherwise it sucks air back in. Also make sure to periodically top of the brake fluid.
Sounds like you may have air in the line. Make sure the person operating the brake pedal is not pushing the pedal and releasing it while the bleed screw is open, otherwise it sucks air back in. Also make sure to periodically top of the brake fluid.
I already disconnected the master brake cylinder, did bench bleeding, it works fine. Maybe now its time to replace the ABS unit? Thoughts?
#5
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,236
I would not jump the the ABS unit. Fluid should flow. Do you even get air out of it while trying to bleed it? Anything?
I just recently worked on a F150 that I could not believe the problem. Seemed like a hung caliper, changed the caliper, attempted to bleed it, nothing. Turned out to be the rubber flex line from the metal line to the caliper was messed up/plugged. Changed the line all was good.
Ways to check the flex line...
- Disconnect from the caliper. See if you can get fluid out of the flex hose.
- If the above is no fluid, disconnect from the metal line, see if you get fluid from the metal line.
Just a couple ideas.
Your account was stuck awaiting email verification. I corrected that.
I just recently worked on a F150 that I could not believe the problem. Seemed like a hung caliper, changed the caliper, attempted to bleed it, nothing. Turned out to be the rubber flex line from the metal line to the caliper was messed up/plugged. Changed the line all was good.
Ways to check the flex line...
- Disconnect from the caliper. See if you can get fluid out of the flex hose.
- If the above is no fluid, disconnect from the metal line, see if you get fluid from the metal line.
Just a couple ideas.
Your account was stuck awaiting email verification. I corrected that.
#6
I would not jump the the ABS unit. Fluid should flow. Do you even get air out of it while trying to bleed it? Anything?
I just recently worked on a F150 that I could not believe the problem. Seemed like a hung caliper, changed the caliper, attempted to bleed it, nothing. Turned out to be the rubber flex line from the metal line to the caliper was messed up/plugged. Changed the line all was good.
Ways to check the flex line...
- Disconnect from the caliper. See if you can get fluid out of the flex hose.
- If the above is no fluid, disconnect from the metal line, see if you get fluid from the metal line.
Just a couple ideas.
Your account was stuck awaiting email verification. I corrected that.
I just recently worked on a F150 that I could not believe the problem. Seemed like a hung caliper, changed the caliper, attempted to bleed it, nothing. Turned out to be the rubber flex line from the metal line to the caliper was messed up/plugged. Changed the line all was good.
Ways to check the flex line...
- Disconnect from the caliper. See if you can get fluid out of the flex hose.
- If the above is no fluid, disconnect from the metal line, see if you get fluid from the metal line.
Just a couple ideas.
Your account was stuck awaiting email verification. I corrected that.
#7
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,236
Sorry if some of this is remedial, I just want to hash a few details to see what's going on.
First, you have yourself and another person to assist, correct? As you need one person to operate the brake pedal and the other to open/close the bleed valve. Also, when the bleed valve is open, the person operating the brake never releases the brake until the valve is closed, correct?
Since I don't know if anyone did anything with the calipers, I'll ask this one.... The bleed valves face towards the top of the car, not the bottom, correct? If the valve faces the ground, you will never properly bleed that brake. The caliper has to fill with fluid and if the valve faces the ground, it will never fill with fluid, as each time you bleed it, it will leak out.
When someone presses the brake, does the caliper engage, can you turn the rotor (it should be held in place). Then when the brake pedal is released, can you move the rotor again?
So, if some one pushes the brake down, and while they are holding the brake, you open the bleed valve, some fluid does come out. Does the brake pedal go down further?
While the person is still holding the brake, you then close the bleed valve. Repeat the process, do you ever get to a steady stream of fluid when you open the bleed valve?
First, you have yourself and another person to assist, correct? As you need one person to operate the brake pedal and the other to open/close the bleed valve. Also, when the bleed valve is open, the person operating the brake never releases the brake until the valve is closed, correct?
Since I don't know if anyone did anything with the calipers, I'll ask this one.... The bleed valves face towards the top of the car, not the bottom, correct? If the valve faces the ground, you will never properly bleed that brake. The caliper has to fill with fluid and if the valve faces the ground, it will never fill with fluid, as each time you bleed it, it will leak out.
When someone presses the brake, does the caliper engage, can you turn the rotor (it should be held in place). Then when the brake pedal is released, can you move the rotor again?
So, if some one pushes the brake down, and while they are holding the brake, you open the bleed valve, some fluid does come out. Does the brake pedal go down further?
While the person is still holding the brake, you then close the bleed valve. Repeat the process, do you ever get to a steady stream of fluid when you open the bleed valve?
#8
Why do you say possibly the 2 particular brakes may have never worked? Are the pads not worn as heavily as the other 2 you feel were operational?
What are you talking about when you say there is no pressure for them? You see fluid coming out of the bleeder valves, so the lines have to be clear. Seems to me like the admin says if while someone is holding the brake pedal down and you attempt to turn the rotors, and it does not turn I would say you have fluid pressure to the calipers in turn activating them.
I would think if you brake booster was bad you would have no real pressure to any brakes. Do you have a hard pedal, perhaps the brake booster vacuum line has popped off from the reverse side of the manifold if you do.
It is odd your having problems with a front and a rear brake system and your getting fluid from them still. Is it at a reduced flow than what the others bleed at? Perhaps as the admin says check for damaged lines, kinked, restricting the flow by removing the line and seeing if the flow is substantial as it leaves the line. Perhaps the caliper needs cleaned, rebuilt or replaced.
What are you talking about when you say there is no pressure for them? You see fluid coming out of the bleeder valves, so the lines have to be clear. Seems to me like the admin says if while someone is holding the brake pedal down and you attempt to turn the rotors, and it does not turn I would say you have fluid pressure to the calipers in turn activating them.
I would think if you brake booster was bad you would have no real pressure to any brakes. Do you have a hard pedal, perhaps the brake booster vacuum line has popped off from the reverse side of the manifold if you do.
It is odd your having problems with a front and a rear brake system and your getting fluid from them still. Is it at a reduced flow than what the others bleed at? Perhaps as the admin says check for damaged lines, kinked, restricting the flow by removing the line and seeing if the flow is substantial as it leaves the line. Perhaps the caliper needs cleaned, rebuilt or replaced.
#9
Lines seem fine. As I mentioned the Front left and rear right capliers work great and bleed well, but there is almost no fluid coming out of the front right and rear left caliper. The pedal is spongy. I think there is air in the ABS unit. Anyway I can bleed the ABS unit without buying a tech2?
#10
It sounds like you have air in the abs module. There are several spots that trap air in there around the valves, you need to barrow a tech 2 or other scan tool that will cycle the abs. I know some people on YouTube say you can drive on a wet road slam on the brakes to trigger the abs, I have a tech 2 so I've never tried that way, bIut would not recommend driving with non functioning brakes in traffic. If you broke open any line between the master and abs module you need the scan tool to bleed. However on some jeeps I've been able to use a master cylinder pressure bleeder to get air out when a DRB scan tool was not available, but those are not too easy to find sometimes.