all you would have to do is turn the engine 90 degrees, find a trans that will work. fab up some motor mounts, relocate most of your accessories, find a way to run a driveshaft, and find a rear end that is wide enough and has the appropriate gearing......piece of cake :P pahaha

 

Bama add to that list:
-relocate the fuel tank
-rerun the rear brake lines
-cut out the fire wall so that a trans can fit. Good luck as a header's down pipe requires massive amounts of pounding and some cutting to fit.
-finding a path for the exhaust to go
-a multi-link might be easiest for the rear end.
and with all this making it strong enough to handle a descent amount of power... as there would be no point to spend all the time and money just to make a car with 250 hp or to have it all break.

but that list is just random off the top of the head stuff... actually doing it im sure the list will double.



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back to the point of the Thread. use a 98-99 Z as a parts car. you will pretty much need everything electrical from it. even the instrument cluster will be needed! so the dash needs to come out. like said it might be a better idea to find a 98-99 Z to start with. the 95 Z just has too much to change... add to that you have drum rear brakes and it doesnt have dual climate. you could find a 98-99 LS that would have the dual climate and all wheel disk. and just swap the suspension from your Z and anything else you want to save. and again for the price, just find a 98 GTP and not do any of the work and enjoy!

 

damn... haha alright i guess id stick with FWD. i love rear wheel a lot but if i love the monte when its done ill just deal with it..

 

Another option to SC it instead of an M90- is to use a CSC (similar to a turbo's intake side, just with a pulled on the backside instead of an exhaust housing). That would eliminate cutting the hole in the hood- but you'd have to mount the CSC over where the stock airbox is. Obviously, as Zipper said- you're stuck on tuning. Maybe you could do something like Megasquirt or some kind of aftermarket controller? Either that, or change over to an obd2 year of harness and sensors.

You wouldn't need a wiring harness to put an L67 in an L36 car- just the L67 swap wiring harness adapter which is available from ZZP; other than the 2 plugs that changes, the rest of the wiring is the same since the L36 and L67 are basically the same engine.

Also, I don't think he'd be able to turbo his 3.4 dohc for $2k unless he was able to do his own welding at a minimum, preferably being able to bend his own tubing too. Its not like they have bolt on turbo kit options like the 3800's do.

I got mine for $150 on the forums. They're not super rare- but they are a bit tough to find. Also keep in mind, 3800 lumina harnesses will work also since the monte and lumina are virtually the same car.

Honestly, if you're looking to spend $4k- why not just find a used grand prix GTP? I'm sure you could get a 97, 98, or 99 for that price, and then you wouldn't have to worry about swapping anything (and you'd likely get more options in the process- IE HUD, DIC, heated seats, etc).

If you have to ask- its not going to happen. Not trying to be mean here- I am in the process of converting my monte right now, so I'm not saying its impossible either- but it takes a ton of engineering work and skill to be able to end up with something that both works, and is still safe to drive. You've got to think at how many thousands of man-hours they put into engineering the car to start with- its obviously impossible for you to end up with the same performance, quality, safety as it came OEM doing a backyard conversion job. The car was never designed to have any driving force placed on the rear half of the car- and as such, there isn't much structural rigidity.

With that said, if you were serious about having a well engineered RWD conversion that was still safe to drive- your best bet would be to do like the drag car teams do, or NASCAR does- buy a pre-engineered tube chassis- have a certified welder weld it together- and then mount up your choice of suspension/engine/etc and fab up mounts for your OEM body (they make all of the parts as reproduction lightweight fiberglass for the racers too- probably a better option than using the stock metal stuff).

If you don't have the money to go that route, I'd just buy a car that came RWD stock- buy a used camaro or mustang or something. A 96+ camaro came with an engine that makes about as much power as your 3.4 does- and were offered in manual or automatic- and convertible, and t top options- so you'd have even more variety. I just picked up a used '01 V6 camaro for cheap myself- so they are out there.

I believe the M112 rotor conversion pack is still being made by someone- I remember seeing a thread on one of the forums recently about doing some new testing.

Also, the Yella Terra whipple 'kit' doesn't bolt onto our cars- they're made for RWD 3800's. You can use their lower adapter/IC- but that's about it- PRJ did make a one-off throttle body adapter for a 90mm LSx TB- but it was very pricey.

Even at that- to the OP- you're getting way ahead of yourself here. Forget about swapping the SC out for something better if you haven't even done the L67 swap yet. Do the swap first- then get all your mods (for a whipple, you still need headers, ported heads, a pretty beefy cam, an IC, and a built trans)- so you're looking at an easy $7-10k in mods right there- plus you've still got to buy the whipple kit. Just take it one step at a time, and you'll be fine.