OK, sounds like the Park/Neutral Safety switch is not an issue. Has anyone checked if it's got any codes in the computer (anything at all that failed)??? If so, those may explain what's going on.

If not, you can try basic maintenance items to see if one of them solves the problems. Pending these have not already been done, things to consider:
- New fuel filter
- New air filter
- New plugs/wires (I highly recommend AC Delco or NGK plugs, stay AWAY from Bosch plugs)

Even if these don't solve the problem, assuming you're at about 100,000 miles, if these have not been done, they will need done soon (as you're at a maintenance interval for them).

I personally HOPE it's not a Passlock issue (and I don't think it is, you have not noted the security light flashing at all.

 

There are no check engine lights or anything on so I never thought to have it hooked up could there still be codes? It has new plugs, wires and air filter I could give the fuel filter a try although once it's running it runs nice and smooth. BTW the car has 132,000 on it. The security light isn't on either that's whats puzzling me about this..

 

I assume the new plugs are not BOSCH? If they are, replace them. BOSCH plugs are junk, known to have issues (I dealt with enough of those issues myself with friends and family, I stay away from them).

Fuel filter is another good item to change. Today's fuel is better filtered, but if the fuel filter begins to clog, it causing the fuel pump to work harder to keep up with the pressure needs and gives issues keeping the fueling where it needs to be at the injectors.

As for codes, yes, the computer could have code data without having an active CEL. Not all scan tools can access the data, but it's there. These cars run countless number of diagnostics based on numerous pieces of criteria fed into the PCM. But these diagnostics have to reach certain amount of failures in a certain time frame to pop the CEL (this way the car is not coding because of a one time issue). But if a diag does fail, the PCM stores it until the PCM is cleared of all codes.

 

No the plugs aren't BOSCH. It did it again over the weekend it fired but didn't start then did it again. Then when I tried the 3rd time it just turned over no firing at all took about 5 minutes of trying then it finally started but the check engine light was on . I took it the next morning to Autozone and had them check the system (the light was back off) and it had 3 codes in it. 1st was for A/c regulator or something like that, the 2nd was to do with injectors not getting the proper signal from ignition to start the car I"m thinking that was an old stored code because my ignition was just replaced before I got the car and the 3rd was Evap solenoid ... Would that be the problem?

 

First, get the actual code numbers (start with a P and then 4 digits). Those descriptions are very generic and there may be more to it.

But honestly, I'd be concerned/curious about the second one your talking about dealing with the injectors not getting a proper signal. It would be ideal if you could get the codes cleared, drive around and get fresh data (but the parts places have a policy against clearing the codes as they don't want to be part of people attempting to defraud their emissions checks).

If you provide the actual code IDs, I could peak at the shop book and see what could be the issue.

 

Sorry it's been so long work has been crazy. To fill everyone in it ended up being a faulty ignition switch. the dealership changed it out and I haven't had starting issues since. Knock on wood

 

This really works could drive two days did this it work thanks. The start is cranking, not clicking, then starter and start solenoid sound good to me.

I'm not sure if the Park/Neutral safety switch would allow the starter to engage or not, but next time the car does not start, hold your foot on the break, shift into neutral and attempt to start the car. If that resolves it, then you probably need your park/neutral safety switch replaced.
The other issue could be the PassLock system having problems (it's the anti-theft system equipped on these cars). I know there is a thread started by JC Colons on here who is having issues with PassLock and he found some interesting information.

In case you are unaware, PassLock disables the injectors, so crank all you want, you're getting no fuel. I'm not sure that's the case with your situation (normally when it is, you will also notice the "security" message in the message center).[/QUOTE]

 

I am with My 1995 240000 miles not turn over and start. It doesn't always do it, might be good for 2-3 days or might fail 2 times a day. Doesn't even try to start. If you wait about 3 minutes it starts normally. It doesn't matter if the engine is normal temp. or 1st thing in the morning. The interlock was omitted a 18 months ago with a resistor because it wouldn't start. Last week I installed a push button wired to the exciter post on the started taking the old one off, purple wire. Will always crank now but it may not. It had started several times this morning and then it failed. I waited after lunch and it started properly??