6th Gen ('00-'05): Rough Starting
#11
VAPOR CANISTER LINES & VALVE
Jake, those evap hoses are vacuum lines. If they leak it will throw P0102 code. They could be blowing off due to a clogged or bad PCV valve. Also check: 1.objects blocking the MAF sensor inlet screen
2.vacuum leaks around the intake manifold
3.vacuum leaks at throttle body
4.vacuum leaks at the EGR valve and flange.
5. Clogged throttle body screen
Hope this helps.
Jake, those evap hoses are vacuum lines. If they leak it will throw P0102 code. They could be blowing off due to a clogged or bad PCV valve. Also check: 1.objects blocking the MAF sensor inlet screen
2.vacuum leaks around the intake manifold
3.vacuum leaks at throttle body
4.vacuum leaks at the EGR valve and flange.
5. Clogged throttle body screen
Hope this helps.
#12
Ok so I think I found my issue. The brake booster vacuum hose that goes into the brake booster from the intake manifold. Can it be that there is a vacuum leak in the brake booster itself? When I disconnect the hose and cover it up with my finger the car runs great and the air seeping noise goes away. When I plug it back in the car starts running rough again and the air leaking noise comes back.
Thoughts on how I should proceed? Maybe its the Inlet that the hose goes into thats inverted. I took it off and breathed into it and the air goes through, but not the other way. I put on backwards and the car sounds amazing. I have two of these inlets and it cant be that both of them are broken.
Thoughts on how I should proceed? Maybe its the Inlet that the hose goes into thats inverted. I took it off and breathed into it and the air goes through, but not the other way. I put on backwards and the car sounds amazing. I have two of these inlets and it cant be that both of them are broken.
Last edited by Jake Long; 06-12-2015 at 04:36 PM.
#13
Probably leaking from the gasket between the master cylinder and booster. With the car running, step on the brake. Does the "jiddering" go away? If it does, that's your leak. You can also spray carb cleaner or starting fluid around the area where the MC and booster mate (where the gasket is) and listen for changes in the engine sound. You can only blow one way through the hose because there's a check valve in the booster.
#14
You can use carburetor cleaner to check for vacuum leaks too. With the engine running spray it around in certain areas at a time, if the engine idle increases or almost dies, your leak is in that area.
#15
No air leaking through the master cylinder/booster. Can it be a bad booster meaning its leaking somewhere inside? Why is the intake connected to the booster anyway? Can I just plug it up? Seems to work fine and run amazing when I tried it earlier.
#16
There are several seals in the booster that could be leaking to atmosphere too. Sounds like you need to replace the booster. If you plug the line you'll still have brakes, but no power assist. I definitely would not recommend that! Here's a video to help explain:
#17
There are several seals in the booster that could be leaking to atmosphere too. Sounds like you need to replace the booster. If you plug the line you'll still have brakes, but no power assist. I definitely would not recommend that! Here's a video to help explain:
Power Brakes - Vacuum Assist - Explained - YouTube
Power Brakes - Vacuum Assist - Explained - YouTube
This was the last problem in my car which is now finally fixed. Thanks guys/gals! Couldn't have done it without you. <3
#18
Your welcome Jake!, but hears the thing. Just because the booster leaks doesn't mean it's not working, it's just not as efficient. Please be careful and test the brakes for yourself if you disconnect and plug that line. If you don't do anything it will effect your fuel trim values. The PCM will compensate for FT up to 25% (should be 0% Short Term and 0% Long Term) before it throws a DTC. It will also eventually damage the catalytic converter. Best of luck, the decision is yours.
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