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6th Gen ('00-'05): Rough Starting

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  #11  
Old 06-12-2015, 09:23 AM
Jake Long's Avatar
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Originally Posted by plumbob
VAPOR CANISTER LINES & VALVE



Jake, those evap hoses are vacuum lines. If they leak it will throw P0102 code. They could be blowing off due to a clogged or bad PCV valve. Also check: 1.objects blocking the MAF sensor inlet screen
2.vacuum leaks around the intake manifold
3.vacuum leaks at throttle body
4.vacuum leaks at the EGR valve and flange.
5. Clogged throttle body screen
Hope this helps.
I fixed the blowing off issue. The only issue now is the jiddering and reving from 800-1000 when idling. It comes and goes. Switched out all the sensors on the throttle body with no luck.
 
  #12  
Old 06-12-2015, 04:01 PM
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Ok so I think I found my issue. The brake booster vacuum hose that goes into the brake booster from the intake manifold. Can it be that there is a vacuum leak in the brake booster itself? When I disconnect the hose and cover it up with my finger the car runs great and the air seeping noise goes away. When I plug it back in the car starts running rough again and the air leaking noise comes back.

Thoughts on how I should proceed? Maybe its the Inlet that the hose goes into thats inverted. I took it off and breathed into it and the air goes through, but not the other way. I put on backwards and the car sounds amazing. I have two of these inlets and it cant be that both of them are broken.
 

Last edited by Jake Long; 06-12-2015 at 04:36 PM.
  #13  
Old 06-12-2015, 08:15 PM
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Probably leaking from the gasket between the master cylinder and booster. With the car running, step on the brake. Does the "jiddering" go away? If it does, that's your leak. You can also spray carb cleaner or starting fluid around the area where the MC and booster mate (where the gasket is) and listen for changes in the engine sound. You can only blow one way through the hose because there's a check valve in the booster.
 
  #14  
Old 06-12-2015, 09:00 PM
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You can use carburetor cleaner to check for vacuum leaks too. With the engine running spray it around in certain areas at a time, if the engine idle increases or almost dies, your leak is in that area.
 
  #15  
Old 06-12-2015, 09:07 PM
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No air leaking through the master cylinder/booster. Can it be a bad booster meaning its leaking somewhere inside? Why is the intake connected to the booster anyway? Can I just plug it up? Seems to work fine and run amazing when I tried it earlier.
 
  #16  
Old 06-12-2015, 09:28 PM
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There are several seals in the booster that could be leaking to atmosphere too. Sounds like you need to replace the booster. If you plug the line you'll still have brakes, but no power assist. I definitely would not recommend that! Here's a video to help explain:
 
  #17  
Old 06-12-2015, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by plumbob
There are several seals in the booster that could be leaking to atmosphere too. Sounds like you need to replace the booster. If you plug the line you'll still have brakes, but no power assist. I definitely would not recommend that! Here's a video to help explain:
Power Brakes - Vacuum Assist - Explained - YouTube
Very informative. Heres the thing. Its been leaking air since I got it meaning I been driving without a vacuum assist the whole time basically and my brakes are insanely hard as it is. So I can live without it until I switch it out I guess.

This was the last problem in my car which is now finally fixed. Thanks guys/gals! Couldn't have done it without you. <3
 
  #18  
Old 06-12-2015, 10:40 PM
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Your welcome Jake!, but hears the thing. Just because the booster leaks doesn't mean it's not working, it's just not as efficient. Please be careful and test the brakes for yourself if you disconnect and plug that line. If you don't do anything it will effect your fuel trim values. The PCM will compensate for FT up to 25% (should be 0% Short Term and 0% Long Term) before it throws a DTC. It will also eventually damage the catalytic converter. Best of luck, the decision is yours.
 
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