Sway Bar Links
#1
09-23-2021, 06:10 PM
Sway Bar Links
Should I have shorter end links if my car is lower? Kinda still has the pogo effect even after breaking in the new shocks. Its barely noticeable but feels just a bit bouncy which I just feel is off.
#2
09-24-2021, 12:32 PM
Also, would this cause a wobble and excessive negative camber?
Im asking because if anyone remembers a while ago when I lowered the car, I had to get the struts slotted. Was supposed to stop the vibration and fix the excessive camber.
Changed the brakes today and noticed the inside of my brand new tires are worn pretty badly and the car still wobbles. I hadnt drove enough to notice so...
Thoughts, suggestions? I pretty PO'd at the moment so ill leave it at this until I can think clearly.
Thanks.
Im asking because if anyone remembers a while ago when I lowered the car, I had to get the struts slotted. Was supposed to stop the vibration and fix the excessive camber.
Changed the brakes today and noticed the inside of my brand new tires are worn pretty badly and the car still wobbles. I hadnt drove enough to notice so...
Thoughts, suggestions? I pretty PO'd at the moment so ill leave it at this until I can think clearly.
Thanks.
#3
09-24-2021, 02:40 PM
I have no experience on lowering to advise you but I can offer a suggestion to check the camber on your car. Use a clinometer app you can download onto your phone.
Alignment shops never got the alignment right on my '74 Monte Carlo so I now do my own alignments. One of the issues I have with the conventional method of doing alignments is that all the measurements are referenced off the wheel or tire. They're essentially making the assumption that your wheels and tires are perfectly round and true.
As with any alignment, I air up the tires, fill fluids, etc. I make sure the car sits on a flat-level surface. I measure the height of the center of the front hub to the floor. I take the front wheels off then lower the hub where the wheel mounts onto a jack stand (set to the height that matches the measurement noted earlier) which is on a turntable plate. Using the part of the hub that the wheel mounts to as a reference, I then use the clinometer app on a cellphone and measure the camber. I compare that reading to one using the surface of the disc-brake rotor. I then rotate the rotor-hub a quarter turn and take readings again, rinse, repeat, until the rotor's been rotated 360°. Mind you, this is only for camber. You can use this setup do toe using a straight-edge clamped to the rotor on each side. I do caster with the wheels mounted.
Alignment shops never got the alignment right on my '74 Monte Carlo so I now do my own alignments. One of the issues I have with the conventional method of doing alignments is that all the measurements are referenced off the wheel or tire. They're essentially making the assumption that your wheels and tires are perfectly round and true.
As with any alignment, I air up the tires, fill fluids, etc. I make sure the car sits on a flat-level surface. I measure the height of the center of the front hub to the floor. I take the front wheels off then lower the hub where the wheel mounts onto a jack stand (set to the height that matches the measurement noted earlier) which is on a turntable plate. Using the part of the hub that the wheel mounts to as a reference, I then use the clinometer app on a cellphone and measure the camber. I compare that reading to one using the surface of the disc-brake rotor. I then rotate the rotor-hub a quarter turn and take readings again, rinse, repeat, until the rotor's been rotated 360°. Mind you, this is only for camber. You can use this setup do toe using a straight-edge clamped to the rotor on each side. I do caster with the wheels mounted.
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