Squeaking?!?!?!
#1
12-27-2010, 02:18 AM
Squeaking?!?!?!
Hey guys, my back shock or strut??? idk which it would be makes a sqeaking sound when i go over bumps when it is compressed.......its only the back right one though. I know that it needs to be replaced but i heard thats expensive so should i just look for an aftermarket suspension for the whole car?? I have 22's on the car so it would have to still fit, but maybe something with a little smoother ride? since my ride is kinda ruff with the 22's? what do you guys think?
#2
12-27-2010, 07:21 AM
I hope that one of our expert member's can help, but having 22's can be a challenge to have a good ride...Check back to see what our expert member's post on your subject question(s).
Good Luck, & I hope the below infor helps you & members with squeaks
How to Stop Your Car From Squeaking
By Mike Allen
Your car squeaks. It's gotten to the point where the neighbors know you're on the way home from half a block away because of all the "chirps" and "eeps" coming from your suspension. It's embarrassing, man. It's also potentially expensive if you have to replace all those worn parts. So why do these components begin to squeak? Suspension and steering joints wear out--and ultimately fail--when unlubricated metal-to-metal contact erodes bushings and bearing surfaces, much like 40-grit sandpaper on a wooden table. So let's nip this degradation in the bud.
Lube It, Already
You're lucky. Chassis lubrication isn't expensive. You can buy a grease gun, some chassis grease and a couple of aerosol cans of lubricant for less than the price of one worn-out tie rod end. So there's no excuse. Your vehicle doesn't need to sound like an angry gerbil on a treadmill.
Most cars and light trucks today are manufactured with sealed "lubed for life" ball joints, tie rod ends and even U-joints. It's a self-fulfilling prophecy--when the factory-fill grease dries out, the joint wears out. Some vehicles still come with suspension and driveline parts that have proper grease fittings, allowing you to use a simple hand-pumped grease gun to inject precious lubrication at regular intervals. Virtually all aftermarket parts, even the direct replacements for the sealed factory units, have grease fittings to allow for lubrication. So what's the difference between the lubed-for-life parts and the greaseable afterÂmarket parts? Only the grease fitting. In fact, you could even drill and tap a hole into a sealed part and add a grease fitting yourself, which is something I usually do on my own cars. Why do car manufacturers leave off this inexpensive fitting? They count every cent that goes into a new vehicle. And a few cents saved on 400,000 vehicles is eventually real money. More important, lubed-for-life parts allow automakers to tout their vehicles as requiring less scheduled maintenance. That has become more important in these days of five- or 10-year warranties--even if the truth of the matter is that the unlubricateable parts will require eventual replacement, at your expense.
Get Underneath
The first thing you need to do before lubricating your chassis is to get some space underneath the vehicle so that you can work safely. My pickup has enough clearance that I can simply crawl underneath it, grease gun in hand, and get the job done. My Porsche needs to be on ramps or safety stands. Either way, make sure the parking brake is on and you place blocks behind the wheels. Toss something thicker than your head, a block of wood or even a spare tire, under there too for insurance.
Now that you're underneath the car, the procedure is simple--open up the dust boot on the fitting and clean off any grime with a rag so you don't force dirt inside. Pop the grease gun onto the fitting and pump the trigger until the rubber boot bleeds fresh grease around the edges. Your vehicle may have as many as a dozen fittings on the front suspension. If you own a 4x4 that sees a lot of mud, plan to spend time under the chassis with a grease gun regularly. You may find fittings on tie rod ends, upper and lower ball joints, sway-bar links and control-arm pivots, so hunt around and make sure to hit them all. There might be grease fittings on as many as three U-joints on the driveshaft (or shafts), depending on whether you have a front-wheel-drive, rear-wheel-drive or four-wheel-drive vehicle.
Can't get any grease into the fitting? It's probably clogged with dried grease or dirt. Squeeze harder on the trigger of the grease gun. Still dry? Unscrew the fitting with a wrench and clean it out with a wire and solvent, or just install a new one from the auto parts store.
Good Luck, & I hope the below infor helps you & members with squeaks
How to Stop Your Car From Squeaking
By Mike Allen
Your car squeaks. It's gotten to the point where the neighbors know you're on the way home from half a block away because of all the "chirps" and "eeps" coming from your suspension. It's embarrassing, man. It's also potentially expensive if you have to replace all those worn parts. So why do these components begin to squeak? Suspension and steering joints wear out--and ultimately fail--when unlubricated metal-to-metal contact erodes bushings and bearing surfaces, much like 40-grit sandpaper on a wooden table. So let's nip this degradation in the bud. Lube It, Already
You're lucky. Chassis lubrication isn't expensive. You can buy a grease gun, some chassis grease and a couple of aerosol cans of lubricant for less than the price of one worn-out tie rod end. So there's no excuse. Your vehicle doesn't need to sound like an angry gerbil on a treadmill.
Most cars and light trucks today are manufactured with sealed "lubed for life" ball joints, tie rod ends and even U-joints. It's a self-fulfilling prophecy--when the factory-fill grease dries out, the joint wears out. Some vehicles still come with suspension and driveline parts that have proper grease fittings, allowing you to use a simple hand-pumped grease gun to inject precious lubrication at regular intervals. Virtually all aftermarket parts, even the direct replacements for the sealed factory units, have grease fittings to allow for lubrication. So what's the difference between the lubed-for-life parts and the greaseable afterÂmarket parts? Only the grease fitting. In fact, you could even drill and tap a hole into a sealed part and add a grease fitting yourself, which is something I usually do on my own cars. Why do car manufacturers leave off this inexpensive fitting? They count every cent that goes into a new vehicle. And a few cents saved on 400,000 vehicles is eventually real money. More important, lubed-for-life parts allow automakers to tout their vehicles as requiring less scheduled maintenance. That has become more important in these days of five- or 10-year warranties--even if the truth of the matter is that the unlubricateable parts will require eventual replacement, at your expense.
Get Underneath
The first thing you need to do before lubricating your chassis is to get some space underneath the vehicle so that you can work safely. My pickup has enough clearance that I can simply crawl underneath it, grease gun in hand, and get the job done. My Porsche needs to be on ramps or safety stands. Either way, make sure the parking brake is on and you place blocks behind the wheels. Toss something thicker than your head, a block of wood or even a spare tire, under there too for insurance.
Now that you're underneath the car, the procedure is simple--open up the dust boot on the fitting and clean off any grime with a rag so you don't force dirt inside. Pop the grease gun onto the fitting and pump the trigger until the rubber boot bleeds fresh grease around the edges. Your vehicle may have as many as a dozen fittings on the front suspension. If you own a 4x4 that sees a lot of mud, plan to spend time under the chassis with a grease gun regularly. You may find fittings on tie rod ends, upper and lower ball joints, sway-bar links and control-arm pivots, so hunt around and make sure to hit them all. There might be grease fittings on as many as three U-joints on the driveshaft (or shafts), depending on whether you have a front-wheel-drive, rear-wheel-drive or four-wheel-drive vehicle.
Can't get any grease into the fitting? It's probably clogged with dried grease or dirt. Squeeze harder on the trigger of the grease gun. Still dry? Unscrew the fitting with a wrench and clean it out with a wire and solvent, or just install a new one from the auto parts store.
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