I looked at those on zzp and emailed them, they said i would need to use spacers with my wheels, but if they do fit do you think they would be suitable for street driving?

 

To quantify a bit when you say 'getting hot' - are we talking boiling fluid, glowing rotors, or noticeable fade in the pads? If so, then that does need to be addressed. Or are we just talking everything works fine, but you can feel heat coming off of them walking around after heavy use (which is normal - all of the kinetic energy of the moving car is dumped into the rotors as heat energy which can be substantial at higher speeds).

Definitely not a big pain, Im just trying to be cautious to avoid suggesting something that's way overkill for the use. Hate to see you putting thousands into crazy brakes for a stock engine daily, that's all.

From what you've mentioned, some quality blank rotors (I use Centric, but there are plenty of options), some performance oriented street pads (I use Carbotech 1520s on my daily GTO), performance tires (like a Michelin PSS, PS4, etc), and fresh performance brake fluid should be plenty for your application. Unless you're doing multiple panic stops from triple digits back to back, this should be more than good enough.

That's exactly what I run on my DD 400+ hp GTO with zero brake fade, even on spirited drives well into the triple digits.

Unpopular opinion, but I dont think theyre worth the money on any regular car. I truly don't believe you'll see any benefit at all from them for your application.

People used to go crazy about them on w body cars post Fast and the Furious days. "makes it look like a racecar". But once I started getting into F bodies and vettes where people are actually tracking their cars on legit road race circuits, I was very surprised to see how many people ran regular old blank rotors, even on very serious track machines. That really changed my viewpoint on doing them at all on street cars that barely see as much heat in a full trip as these things do in half a lap.

As I started to add significant power to my monte, I actually ended up getting cracking around the drilled holes on my 'performance' rotors, so I ended up swapping it back to blanks also. That's all I run on all of my cars including my Vette that I use for half mile racing events up to 160-170 mph.

If you're having actual brake cooling issues (i.e. you're dumping more heat into the rotors than they can naturally dissipate / overheating the rotors), then adding a couple % more surface area via holes or grooves is going to be a miniscule drop in the bucket in terms of cooling rate.

If actual cooling is the problem, then ducted cooling air is the solution. You need to force high volumes of cool ambient air over the rotor to transfer off all of it's pent up heat.

But- that seems really excessive for a stock v6 street car, thats why I ask how much overheating we're really talking here. The typical case when pushing a stock car is just overheating the pads - creating fade / loss of friction, but that can be easily remedied with a sporty street pad that's matched for the temp they'll actually see. But if you're actually glowing rotors / boiling brake fluid, then perhaps you're using this thing way harder than I'm thinking.

 

Well any spacers I believe may simply be a sleeve that inserts into bolt holes on caliper, not a wheel spacer for offset or such. Mine bolted right up, no tapping / drilling from what I remember, been about 15 years. Best place is to just buy some rebuilt 4th gen Camaro front calipers with mounting brackets on eBay or go to a junk yard if you want to restore them, keeps your out of pocket prices way down, enough to buy the pads with. I agree with Bumpin, tires,pads, brake fluid & rotors (my drilled / slotted did crack), but you get about 5 years out of them and they aren't really that expensive, my 2nd set of drilled / slotted has no cracks at drilled holes yet. New high temp brake fluid is a must and then while you are at it, look at getting a pair of Goodridge braided stainless brake lines to finish the job. Factory rubber lines expand, braided contain the expansion, thus more pressure can be applied to the pistons. Look at EBC "Yellow Stuff pads for really high temps, or Red stuff for more daily driver. Also make sure what ever setup you end up going to properly break in the pads (bed / seat them), a handful of 80 mph to 30mph hard slow downs or what ever method people in the know (more than I) approve of.

Read more on the F-body swap here: https://www.w-body.com/topic/55502-f...brake-upgrade/

Review on EBC Yellow Stuff pads: Nothing like what Bumpin rolls with, his are true big $$ pads, but then so is his sick *** Vette, small price to save a Vette. These are very decent though.

EBC Yellowstuff R's are the "official" brake pad of the "Subaru Challenge" in the UK. This fact alone has got to say something good about the beating these pads are capable of. So I've decided to give them a go.
These pads are true full race spec material and can handle higher temperatures than some of the other options out there.
EBC claims they offer good wear life, and that the “bite” from cold is GREAT - - not many true race/track pads can hold that kind of claim.

Braking ability/Fade Resistance – I've yet to experience brake fade!
Extreme temperatures, constant left foot braking, let's face it, I have been nothing short of brutal on these pads.
True that in between stages they do get a chance to cool down a bit, yet on stage, they performed better and better the hotter that I got them.
For me, this inspired nothing but confidence in the pad, brakes and car setup.
Compared to the EBC Redstuffs - Very similar comparisons. Both are rotor friendly, light dust, no noise, and long lasting.
The benefit of the Yellowstuff over the Redstuffs? They can handle higher temperatures.
Although I've never had brake fade with either compound, the Yellowstuff seem to hold themselves better the hotter they get!
I can feel it in the brake pedal, in the car and the feedback from the car when under heavy/extreme braking. I would have absolute confidence on either compound, but for "faster" more aggressive racing events, you will find me leaning to the Yellowstuff compound from now on.
In Conclusion: I would recommend these brakes as a "decent" street pad - but most definitely a full track, rally and race pad.