Now you said Fiberglass sheet... that will fall out, I'll almost guarantee it. That one type of cloth is meant for patching boats. Make sure your fiberglass cloth looks like this...



It should have strands going in all directions...

Otherwise, good luck, glad to see you getting down to business on this project. You also need to sand where you're putting bondo with 80 grit sand paper... think I forgot that in your first post.

And since you're doing the fiberglass, get a quart of acetone. If you happen to get a little fiberglass on you, it's about the only thing that will stop the itch.... make sure you wear rubber gloves.

Best of luck with the un-orthodox method!

 

I'm gonna follow up on this... unfortunately my Monte suffered through nearly five Minnesota winters and although he's in good shape right now I'm sure he'll have a bit of underbody rust in a few years. This thread is infinitely better than my rust removal job on my old Monte. It only involved a circ saw. Your method seems to be a tad more professional than mine was... Hope it works for you.

 

Very good write up so far - I might be doing this same repair after next winter. I only have some small bubbles forming but I'm hoping to sell the car before it gets as bad as yours. Good luck with the rest of the project!

 

Lookin good. Id suggest you pick up one of these 3m abrasive disks. It hooks into a drill and its much faster/ more accurate then a wire brush. I used it on my fenders.

 

agreed! i used something simular after i realized the wire brush just wasnt going to cut it lol. just forgot to take a picture of it so i just added the pic of the wire bush so people got the idea. posting more soon!

 

cant wait for the photos, i think you've caught many eyes since rust seems to be a problem thats been arising lately, I hope this turns out well for ya cuz i got some bubbling going on too and hope to stop that asap! Just would like to see your method work out, since i have all those tools/materials

 

body repair is back on!

Edit: well at least the fiberglass and body filler still waiting for the paint in the mail for the oem matched color!

 

Where did you get your paint?

 

Alllllllllllllright so ive been gone for awhile but im back and managed to get a bit further on my progress.

So next after using the rust inhibitor your ready to paint right? WRONG! you need to fiberglass this stuff to cover any holes and help protect against further exposure to moisture and dirt.

SO what you need here is:

rubber gloves
putty knife
fiber glass resin
fiber glass mat
fiber glass hardener
and a lot of sand paper



MAKE SURE UR FIBERGLASS LOOKS LIKE THIS (should have strands on every end of the sheet not little dots all over it with no loose fiberglass)



Obviously your going to want to use a small putty knife like this one or smaller to make sure u can get as detailed as possible. Along with this when puttying your going to want to try and make it as smooth as possible to begin with, it will make your sanding a lot easier!

 

SO now to begin. For me i had to make sure my car surface was all clean since i took a break between the rust inhibitor and fiberglass (2 weeks). This will insure that your fiberglass will hold as long as possible.

After cleaning body area that will be fiberglassed you can begin to apply the fiberglass resin. I applied mine on the backside (side not visible) because i was worried of creating to big of a bump on the visibile side. Plus i just need something for the resin to grab onto to make a nice clean surface.

Once the backside was complete and allowed to dry for about 5 mins i slapped on some resin on the visible side of the wheel well. Make sure you make this look as smooth as possible as stated before it will make your sanding alot easier in the future.

Once you feel like you have filled in all holes that need to be filled you can begin to sand after allowing resin about 15 mins to dry.

after these two MAJOR steps your project should look similar to this.