< Five ways to make a 100K mile car feel new again ? >
#1
06-27-2012, 10:23 AM
< Five ways to make a 100K mile car feel new again ? >
Hi Member's, I found the below on a web search &
I thought I would share..
It's a good reminder to many on certain items to check
on their Monte's/Vehicle..
Please add anything that you think a member can
also `do to keep their Monte's in great condition
Five ways to make a 100,000 mile car feel new again
I thought I would share..
It's a good reminder to many on certain items to check
on their Monte's/Vehicle..
Please add anything that you think a member can
also `do to keep their Monte's in great condition
Five ways to make a 100,000 mile car feel new again
No one is buying a newcar any more, it seems. Unless you pay cash, no one's going to lend you any money, so keep your old car. Of course, I'm talking from the point of view of a repair shop, so keep the source in mind. Mwah-ha-ha and hugs to you all! But seriously, having seen lots of cars worth keeping well over 100,000 miles, as well as those whose owners have no choice but to keep them, we've compiled a list of ways to make that older car feel like it used to when it was new.
Number 5: Flush every fluid, even those you forgot about.
Number 5: Flush every fluid, even those you forgot about.
5
When was the last time you flushed your power steering fluid? Chances are, you didn't even know that was supposed to be done. Power steering fluid is petroleum based, with certain additives, and like any petroleum product will break down and lose effectiveness over time. Power steering parts include hoses, a pump, several seals, and many moving parts and metal parts and rubber parts, all of which rely on lubrication from the power steering fluid. Flush the power steering fluid and add some extra boost to it, such as Lucas Power Steering Tune-Up, to give your older system a little more help.
Flush your brake fluid - you should be doing this every other year anyway. Again, the system has a pump, hoses, seals, moving parts, metal parts and rubber parts, and all rely on lubrication and the presence of the fluid to function. Over time, the fluid becomes contaminated with air, rubber particles, metal particles, and loses its effectiveness, and we all know what that means. It's your BRAKES. Your BRAKES! The things that keep you from crashing into other things. Brake fluid is cheap, most places will flush it for around $60 including parts and labor, so put fresh fluid in your brake system every other year.
Then there are the things you already know about - your motor oil, your transmission oil, your antifreeze, your differential fluid. You should be doing that anyway, but definitely pay attention to your intervals even more closely when you hit 100K.
Number 4: Straighten or replace your wheels
When was the last time you flushed your power steering fluid? Chances are, you didn't even know that was supposed to be done. Power steering fluid is petroleum based, with certain additives, and like any petroleum product will break down and lose effectiveness over time. Power steering parts include hoses, a pump, several seals, and many moving parts and metal parts and rubber parts, all of which rely on lubrication from the power steering fluid. Flush the power steering fluid and add some extra boost to it, such as Lucas Power Steering Tune-Up, to give your older system a little more help.
Flush your brake fluid - you should be doing this every other year anyway. Again, the system has a pump, hoses, seals, moving parts, metal parts and rubber parts, and all rely on lubrication and the presence of the fluid to function. Over time, the fluid becomes contaminated with air, rubber particles, metal particles, and loses its effectiveness, and we all know what that means. It's your BRAKES. Your BRAKES! The things that keep you from crashing into other things. Brake fluid is cheap, most places will flush it for around $60 including parts and labor, so put fresh fluid in your brake system every other year.
Then there are the things you already know about - your motor oil, your transmission oil, your antifreeze, your differential fluid. You should be doing that anyway, but definitely pay attention to your intervals even more closely when you hit 100K.
Number 4: Straighten or replace your wheels
4
You have forgotten how your car used to ride. Gradually, over time, your wheels have taken a lot of shock and have shown the evidence of wear and tear. Alloy wheels are somewhat soft and will give in places, and balancing your tires often compensates for a good bit of that, but the subtle differences will all add up to a lower quality ride.
Call a service that straightens and welds wheels, and have them straighten and fix all the little ouchies and boo-boos on your wheels, then have your tires re-mounted and have everything balanced by a shop that does road force (rolling resistance) balancing. You won't believe the difference this will make in the quality of the ride and the comfort over all kinds of surfaces.
Number 3: De-odorize your air conditioning
You have forgotten how your car used to ride. Gradually, over time, your wheels have taken a lot of shock and have shown the evidence of wear and tear. Alloy wheels are somewhat soft and will give in places, and balancing your tires often compensates for a good bit of that, but the subtle differences will all add up to a lower quality ride.
Call a service that straightens and welds wheels, and have them straighten and fix all the little ouchies and boo-boos on your wheels, then have your tires re-mounted and have everything balanced by a shop that does road force (rolling resistance) balancing. You won't believe the difference this will make in the quality of the ride and the comfort over all kinds of surfaces.
Number 3: De-odorize your air conditioning
3
I bet you didn't even know you could do this. Know what it is like, when you've come out of springtime, and you get that first shock of a hot day, and you turn your air conditioning on, and you get blasted with that smell of mold and chemicals? Yeah, it might give you a brief feeling of nostalgia, but you don't have to experience it that way. Find a place (might be a detail shop) that does de-odorizing of the a/c system.
The vents, cabin air filter (if equipped), and vacuum system get cleaned, mold killed, and a pleasant smell emitted in its place. The drain tubes (bet you didn't know you had those, either) get unclogged (they are clogged, I promise), cleaned and disinfected, and deodorized. Want a cheap way to do it yourself? Find where your cabin air filter is, change it yourself, and spray it down with Febreeze before you put it in. Then start your air conditioning, and spray a disinfectant into your cabin air intake (usually located at the cowling) until you can smell the disinfectant in the cabin of your car.
You can also unclog the drain tubes yourself, you just need to find them. Wear rubber gloves for this, trust me. That buildup of mold, rust, outside contaminants, allergens, and other airborne ickiness is what gives your car that old-car smell. You can go a long way if you can de-odorize it by having it suck in fresher air into a fresher system.
Number 2: Replace your struts/shocks and ball joints (as equipped)
I bet you didn't even know you could do this. Know what it is like, when you've come out of springtime, and you get that first shock of a hot day, and you turn your air conditioning on, and you get blasted with that smell of mold and chemicals? Yeah, it might give you a brief feeling of nostalgia, but you don't have to experience it that way. Find a place (might be a detail shop) that does de-odorizing of the a/c system.
The vents, cabin air filter (if equipped), and vacuum system get cleaned, mold killed, and a pleasant smell emitted in its place. The drain tubes (bet you didn't know you had those, either) get unclogged (they are clogged, I promise), cleaned and disinfected, and deodorized. Want a cheap way to do it yourself? Find where your cabin air filter is, change it yourself, and spray it down with Febreeze before you put it in. Then start your air conditioning, and spray a disinfectant into your cabin air intake (usually located at the cowling) until you can smell the disinfectant in the cabin of your car.
You can also unclog the drain tubes yourself, you just need to find them. Wear rubber gloves for this, trust me. That buildup of mold, rust, outside contaminants, allergens, and other airborne ickiness is what gives your car that old-car smell. You can go a long way if you can de-odorize it by having it suck in fresher air into a fresher system.
Number 2: Replace your struts/shocks and ball joints (as equipped)
2
Save up and take the plunge and do this all at once. I know, nothing is broken, I know, they seem fine, I know, it's expensive, but you won't believe what this will do for the way the car handles. Your safety, your comfort, and your love of the ride will improve. Tightening all these items up adds up big. You won't believe it the next time you get in the car and you find your stopping distance has SERIOUSLY decreased, you are stopping smoother and with less effort, and with less noise and rocking back and forth. You won't believe how gentle you can be on the accelerator pedal and have the car respond better than you ever remember. You won't believe how suddenly it seems like you have a tighter turning radius (you don't actually, it just feels so much smoother that you turn with more confidence), and the car throws you around less when you turn hard or turn at a faster speed. For less effort, and less wear and tear on all the moving parts, your car will stop better, accellerate better, turn better, and overall ride better.
Number 1: Replace your catalytic converters, muffler and oxygen sensors
Save up and take the plunge and do this all at once. I know, nothing is broken, I know, they seem fine, I know, it's expensive, but you won't believe what this will do for the way the car handles. Your safety, your comfort, and your love of the ride will improve. Tightening all these items up adds up big. You won't believe it the next time you get in the car and you find your stopping distance has SERIOUSLY decreased, you are stopping smoother and with less effort, and with less noise and rocking back and forth. You won't believe how gentle you can be on the accelerator pedal and have the car respond better than you ever remember. You won't believe how suddenly it seems like you have a tighter turning radius (you don't actually, it just feels so much smoother that you turn with more confidence), and the car throws you around less when you turn hard or turn at a faster speed. For less effort, and less wear and tear on all the moving parts, your car will stop better, accellerate better, turn better, and overall ride better.
Number 1: Replace your catalytic converters, muffler and oxygen sensors
1
Again, do it all at once. I'll give you an example. I have an SUV with 4 oxygen sensors, 3 catalytic converters, 2 turtle doves, and one muffler. After having to constantly battle the check engine light starting somewhere around 100K, and fighting the diagnosis that I needed oxygen sensors, I put it off for a while. Sure, you can run an emissions system cleaning and keep putting it off. Or, you can just replace the oxygen sensors that your check engine light is whining about. But that crap will keep building up in your system, and as your catalytic converter(s) start to deteriorate, they start to break down, parts start to peel off, and travel downstream into your muffler where they remain trapped in the sound chambers. Forever. To clog the system.
No engine can have the power it once had if it is pushing out exhaust through narrowing pipes. Think about your heart and your arteries. No matter how hard your heart pumps, if your arteries are closing in, you won't get the benefit of strongly pumping blood. Same with your exhaust system.
Your engine wants to be powerful and efficient. Clog it up, and don't let the waste (exhaust) out, leave the exhaust to just putt-putt on out of there, and you lose power and efficiency. Your oxygen sensors will always read wrong because of the contamination of the backing up exhaust, and so the engine will always think the fuel flow is wrong, and will keep dumping fuel, and how you liking that when it's $5/gallon gas?
So, anyway, back to me. After fighting what I knew I should do for a year and a half, I took the plunge and replaced it all at once. Immediately, on my first trip, I saw a difference. I have a relative on the other side of the state. Usually I could leave my town on a full tank of gas, travel to his town, drive around a little, and be two-thirds of the way back before I needed to fill up for gas again. Right after giving my exhaust system an enema and a new plumbing system, the very next trip I went to see him, drove around, went back home, and had a quarter of a tank of gas left in the tank when I got home. Since then, since I have been preaching this and showing customers the difference, the ones that have taken my advice have seen the same results. You just get a buildup in your exhaust system over time, it just makes sense, and cleaning it is not enough. Replace it and you will find your engine runs cooler, runs faster, runs better, is far more efficient, and you will savemoney.
Member's please add your comment's or suggestions
to this thread...Thank You
Do you agree with above infor/article ?
Let us know ?
Again, do it all at once. I'll give you an example. I have an SUV with 4 oxygen sensors, 3 catalytic converters, 2 turtle doves, and one muffler. After having to constantly battle the check engine light starting somewhere around 100K, and fighting the diagnosis that I needed oxygen sensors, I put it off for a while. Sure, you can run an emissions system cleaning and keep putting it off. Or, you can just replace the oxygen sensors that your check engine light is whining about. But that crap will keep building up in your system, and as your catalytic converter(s) start to deteriorate, they start to break down, parts start to peel off, and travel downstream into your muffler where they remain trapped in the sound chambers. Forever. To clog the system.
No engine can have the power it once had if it is pushing out exhaust through narrowing pipes. Think about your heart and your arteries. No matter how hard your heart pumps, if your arteries are closing in, you won't get the benefit of strongly pumping blood. Same with your exhaust system.
Your engine wants to be powerful and efficient. Clog it up, and don't let the waste (exhaust) out, leave the exhaust to just putt-putt on out of there, and you lose power and efficiency. Your oxygen sensors will always read wrong because of the contamination of the backing up exhaust, and so the engine will always think the fuel flow is wrong, and will keep dumping fuel, and how you liking that when it's $5/gallon gas?
So, anyway, back to me. After fighting what I knew I should do for a year and a half, I took the plunge and replaced it all at once. Immediately, on my first trip, I saw a difference. I have a relative on the other side of the state. Usually I could leave my town on a full tank of gas, travel to his town, drive around a little, and be two-thirds of the way back before I needed to fill up for gas again. Right after giving my exhaust system an enema and a new plumbing system, the very next trip I went to see him, drove around, went back home, and had a quarter of a tank of gas left in the tank when I got home. Since then, since I have been preaching this and showing customers the difference, the ones that have taken my advice have seen the same results. You just get a buildup in your exhaust system over time, it just makes sense, and cleaning it is not enough. Replace it and you will find your engine runs cooler, runs faster, runs better, is far more efficient, and you will savemoney.
Member's please add your comment's or suggestions
to this thread...Thank You
Do you agree with above infor/article ?
Let us know ?
Last edited by Space; 06-27-2012 at 10:25 AM.
#3
06-27-2012, 03:54 PM
Your car is at 100,000 miles. Now what?
Milestone used to mean your car is at the junkyard's gate; no more
MIKE MUSIELSKI / APTypical passenger cars are now surpassing 150,000 miles, while most pickups, sport utility vehicles and vans are crossing the 180,000-mile barrier.
By MELISSA RAYWORTH
updated <ABBR class="dtstamp updated" title=2010-09-16T11:37:20>9/16/2011</ABBR>
Although some cars are ready for trade-in at that threshold, many others can travel twice as far without major repairs.
What allows one car to pass the 100,000-mile barrier with few repair bills, while another is ready for the junkyard? It's all about preventive medicine.
"It's just like when you get to be 70 and everyone tells you the same thing: Exercise, eat right, take care of yourself," says Lauren Fix, author of "Lauren Fix's Guide to Loving Your Car" (St. Martin's Griffin, 2008).
Feeding your car the right things and taking it for regular checkups will make all the difference.
Open the book
The key to keeping your car running smoothly is probably tucked at the bottom of your glove compartment, under the spare napkins and ketchup packets. It's the owner's manual, which most people ignore at their peril.
"There is a schedule in the manual that runs well over 100,000 miles," says Fix, and it lists when to replace parts likely to be wearing out. The list will vary for different cars, so check yours and follow it.
Newer cars may have the maintenance schedule built into an internal computer. A blinking light or a beep will announce that it's time to replace certain parts, says autoeducation.com founder Kevin Schappell.
"Things like the water pump and timing belt should be changed before you notice a problem," Schappell says. Replacing them won't be hugely expensive, but "if that belt breaks, it can cause internal damage to the engine, or if the water pump fails, you can overheat the engine and warp the cylinder head."
That's when things get expensive.
"Typically, around 100,000 or 120,000 miles there are some major preventative maintenance things that need to be done," Schappell says, so it's a great time to catch up if you've been lax until now.
Get fluent about fluids
The liquids that go into your car (gas, oil, brake fluid, power steering fluid, etc.) are crucial to its survival. To extend the life of your car beyond 100,000 miles, these experts suggest frequent oil changes and fluid checks done at dealerships or full-service auto centers.
The staff at a quick-change lube <NOBR style="COLOR: darkgreen" id=itxthook0w0nobr class="itxtrst itxtrstnobr itxthooknobr">shop
</NOBR>, Fix says, isn't likely to have extensive training. Often, "they don't have experience," she says, "so they'll top off long-life fluid with non-long-life or they'll put power-steering fluid where the brake fluid ought to be."
These mistakes cause damage, but the car owner doesn't realize it until well after the discount oil-change was done.
In choosing oil, Fix advises buying full synthetics. They "actually will lube the engine better. It's designed for longer life. There are less emissions, so it's greener. There's slightly better fuel economy and better performance," she says. "There are no negatives except it costs a little more."
Whichever oil you choose, Schappell says, be consistent over time. That way you won't mix synthetics and blends, which can cause problems.
Gas also matters: Different cars benefit from different types, so check your manual. "For a Honda which runs really hot because of the compression, if it says run premium, then run premium," Fix says. "But if it says there's no benefit from premium gas," you don't need it.
Find the right shop
"Do your research," says Terry Wynter, and choose the best people to extend the life of your car. Ask friends and neighbors, and search<NOBR style="COLOR: darkgreen" id=itxthook1w2nobr class="itxtrst itxtrstnobr itxthooknobr">online</NOBR> for reviews of repair shops.
Once you've chosen one, get to know the staff and ask questions. "Consumers are smarter now than ever before" about their cars, Wynter says, but many still are uncomfortable asking for details about work that needs to be done.
Sticking with your car's dealer can be a safe choice, because the staff will be trained to work on your car. But over the life of a high-mileage car, regular maintenance at a dealership can get pricey.
"Rates at an independent shop may be about $40 to $50 an hour," Schappell says, "but you're paying probably $60 to $90 an hour at a dealer."
The cost of repairs can vary widely depending on the brand of car. Parts for some vehicles, including exotic cars and some German models, can be hard to get, driving up their cost. That can be a reason to trade in a car just before the 100,000-mile threshold.
At 100,000 miles, Fix says, "it is out of warranty and you've got to consider that."
When you do replace parts, there are ways to save money: "A quick oil-change place will charge you $50 for an $18 air filter," she says, because you're mainly paying for labor.
But an auto-parts store will charge you only the $18 price tag, she says, and "you can buy it and say, I don't know how to put this on. They'll do it as a courtesy."
Type of miles matter
It may seem surprising, but highway driving puts less stress on a car that tooling around locally. It requires less quick braking and acceleration, and moisture under the hood has a chance to evaporate.
"Cars that do a lot of short trips will require exhaust work a lot sooner than car that travels on the highway a lot," Schappell says.
Fix agrees: With local driving, "if you sit in rush hour traffic, tow a trailer, idle outside a school, drive on dusty roads, that's considered severe duty."
Local driving in colder climates can also cause buildup of ice and snow under the car, which may contain corrosive chemicals. Fix suggests hosing it off on slightly warmer days. She also suggests waxing your car regularly.
Sound like a lot of work to keep a car zooming along past 100,000 miles?
"With your home, something needs fixing and you get on it," she says. "With your car, especially one with a lot of miles you have to get on it right away too."
These small investments will add years to the life of your car.
Milestone used to mean your car is at the junkyard's gate; no more
MIKE MUSIELSKI / APTypical passenger cars are now surpassing 150,000 miles, while most pickups, sport utility vehicles and vans are crossing the 180,000-mile barrier.
By MELISSA RAYWORTH
updated <ABBR class="dtstamp updated" title=2010-09-16T11:37:20>9/16/2011</ABBR>
- <!---Print--->a huge red flag: When a car's odometer would hit 100,000 miles, "it was almost a magic threshold that meant the car was probably worn out," says Kay Wynter, who runs an auto service center in Fort Myers, Fla., with her husband, Terry.
Although some cars are ready for trade-in at that threshold, many others can travel twice as far without major repairs.
What allows one car to pass the 100,000-mile barrier with few repair bills, while another is ready for the junkyard? It's all about preventive medicine.
"It's just like when you get to be 70 and everyone tells you the same thing: Exercise, eat right, take care of yourself," says Lauren Fix, author of "Lauren Fix's Guide to Loving Your Car" (St. Martin's Griffin, 2008).
Feeding your car the right things and taking it for regular checkups will make all the difference.
Open the book
The key to keeping your car running smoothly is probably tucked at the bottom of your glove compartment, under the spare napkins and ketchup packets. It's the owner's manual, which most people ignore at their peril.
"There is a schedule in the manual that runs well over 100,000 miles," says Fix, and it lists when to replace parts likely to be wearing out. The list will vary for different cars, so check yours and follow it.
Newer cars may have the maintenance schedule built into an internal computer. A blinking light or a beep will announce that it's time to replace certain parts, says autoeducation.com founder Kevin Schappell.
"Things like the water pump and timing belt should be changed before you notice a problem," Schappell says. Replacing them won't be hugely expensive, but "if that belt breaks, it can cause internal damage to the engine, or if the water pump fails, you can overheat the engine and warp the cylinder head."
That's when things get expensive.
"Typically, around 100,000 or 120,000 miles there are some major preventative maintenance things that need to be done," Schappell says, so it's a great time to catch up if you've been lax until now.
Get fluent about fluids
The liquids that go into your car (gas, oil, brake fluid, power steering fluid, etc.) are crucial to its survival. To extend the life of your car beyond 100,000 miles, these experts suggest frequent oil changes and fluid checks done at dealerships or full-service auto centers.
The staff at a quick-change lube <NOBR style="COLOR: darkgreen" id=itxthook0w0nobr class="itxtrst itxtrstnobr itxthooknobr">shop
</NOBR>, Fix says, isn't likely to have extensive training. Often, "they don't have experience," she says, "so they'll top off long-life fluid with non-long-life or they'll put power-steering fluid where the brake fluid ought to be."These mistakes cause damage, but the car owner doesn't realize it until well after the discount oil-change was done.
In choosing oil, Fix advises buying full synthetics. They "actually will lube the engine better. It's designed for longer life. There are less emissions, so it's greener. There's slightly better fuel economy and better performance," she says. "There are no negatives except it costs a little more."
Whichever oil you choose, Schappell says, be consistent over time. That way you won't mix synthetics and blends, which can cause problems.
Gas also matters: Different cars benefit from different types, so check your manual. "For a Honda which runs really hot because of the compression, if it says run premium, then run premium," Fix says. "But if it says there's no benefit from premium gas," you don't need it.
Find the right shop
"Do your research," says Terry Wynter, and choose the best people to extend the life of your car. Ask friends and neighbors, and search<NOBR style="COLOR: darkgreen" id=itxthook1w2nobr class="itxtrst itxtrstnobr itxthooknobr">online
</NOBR> for reviews of repair shops.Once you've chosen one, get to know the staff and ask questions. "Consumers are smarter now than ever before" about their cars, Wynter says, but many still are uncomfortable asking for details about work that needs to be done.
Sticking with your car's dealer can be a safe choice, because the staff will be trained to work on your car. But over the life of a high-mileage car, regular maintenance at a dealership can get pricey.
"Rates at an independent shop may be about $40 to $50 an hour," Schappell says, "but you're paying probably $60 to $90 an hour at a dealer."
The cost of repairs can vary widely depending on the brand of car. Parts for some vehicles, including exotic cars and some German models, can be hard to get, driving up their cost. That can be a reason to trade in a car just before the 100,000-mile threshold.
At 100,000 miles, Fix says, "it is out of warranty and you've got to consider that."
When you do replace parts, there are ways to save money: "A quick oil-change place will charge you $50 for an $18 air filter," she says, because you're mainly paying for labor.
But an auto-parts store will charge you only the $18 price tag, she says, and "you can buy it and say, I don't know how to put this on. They'll do it as a courtesy."
Type of miles matter
It may seem surprising, but highway driving puts less stress on a car that tooling around locally. It requires less quick braking and acceleration, and moisture under the hood has a chance to evaporate.
"Cars that do a lot of short trips will require exhaust work a lot sooner than car that travels on the highway a lot," Schappell says.
Fix agrees: With local driving, "if you sit in rush hour traffic, tow a trailer, idle outside a school, drive on dusty roads, that's considered severe duty."
Local driving in colder climates can also cause buildup of ice and snow under the car, which may contain corrosive chemicals. Fix suggests hosing it off on slightly warmer days. She also suggests waxing your car regularly.
Sound like a lot of work to keep a car zooming along past 100,000 miles?
- Most popular
"With your home, something needs fixing and you get on it," she says. "With your car, especially one with a lot of miles you have to get on it right away too."
These small investments will add years to the life of your car.
#4
06-27-2012, 03:58 PM
I've done a couple of those things, new wheels and tires, new cat, new brakes and rotors on front, flushed coolant cars almost always cleaned and has multiple air freshners. Even got new tail lights. Maybe someone can chime in for me though do the L67 cars come with an upgraded suspension? My car got a few hundred over 78k and the steering is extremly tight feels brand new to me I'm amazed at how well it handles.
#5
06-27-2012, 04:03 PM
Just wanted to comment on spaces' 2nd post also. Now a days it seems mileage scres people less and less. Especially on diesels. I see trucks for sale all the time with 180-190k and they're nice clean trucks 03s-05s most of the timeand still selling anywhere from $6500-$9,000. I could have got a newer truck for the price I paid for mine $7,900, but it would have had far more miles. When I was buying it I told myself I wanted something that looked pretty good and would hold up to at least 120k which is a long shot since it has 70k and i owe $3,800 still so by the time its paid off it won't have near 120k and it'll probably be traded in by 100k. I think most people my age, from what I've seen from friends anyway don't care about miles its if it looks and runs good. My buddy just bought a 1998 Tahoe with 22 in rims and it has 230k but looks good and runs good.
#6
06-27-2012, 07:44 PM
I have never owned a vehicle with over 130k. My 70 dart has 86k my monte is close to 80k my lumina had 80k when i bought it sold it at 122k. My monte will hit 1million and i still wont sell it I love this car.
#7
06-29-2012, 08:00 AM
Number 3: De-odorize your air conditioning
3
I bet you didn't even know you could do this. Know what it is like, when you've come out of springtime, and you get that first shock of a hot day, and you turn your air conditioning on, and you get blasted with that smell of mold and chemicals? Yeah, it might give you a brief feeling of nostalgia, but you don't have to experience it that way. Find a place (might be a detail shop) that does de-odorizing of the a/c system.
The vents, cabin air filter (if equipped), and vacuum system get cleaned, mold killed, and a pleasant smell emitted in its place. The drain tubes (bet you didn't know you had those, either) get unclogged (they are clogged, I promise), cleaned and disinfected, and deodorized. Want a cheap way to do it yourself? Find where your cabin air filter is, change it yourself, and spray it down with Febreeze before you put it in. Then start your air conditioning, and spray a disinfectant into your cabin air intake (usually located at the cowling) until you can smell the disinfectant in the cabin of your car.
You can also unclog the drain tubes yourself, you just need to find them. Wear rubber gloves for this, trust me. That buildup of mold, rust, outside contaminants, allergens, and other airborne ickiness is what gives your car that old-car smell. You can go a long way if you can de-odorize it by having it suck in fresher air into a fresher system.
I bet you didn't even know you could do this. Know what it is like, when you've come out of springtime, and you get that first shock of a hot day, and you turn your air conditioning on, and you get blasted with that smell of mold and chemicals? Yeah, it might give you a brief feeling of nostalgia, but you don't have to experience it that way. Find a place (might be a detail shop) that does de-odorizing of the a/c system.
The vents, cabin air filter (if equipped), and vacuum system get cleaned, mold killed, and a pleasant smell emitted in its place. The drain tubes (bet you didn't know you had those, either) get unclogged (they are clogged, I promise), cleaned and disinfected, and deodorized. Want a cheap way to do it yourself? Find where your cabin air filter is, change it yourself, and spray it down with Febreeze before you put it in. Then start your air conditioning, and spray a disinfectant into your cabin air intake (usually located at the cowling) until you can smell the disinfectant in the cabin of your car.
You can also unclog the drain tubes yourself, you just need to find them. Wear rubber gloves for this, trust me. That buildup of mold, rust, outside contaminants, allergens, and other airborne ickiness is what gives your car that old-car smell. You can go a long way if you can de-odorize it by having it suck in fresher air into a fresher system.
https://montecarloforum.com/forum/ge...removal-37371/
#8
06-29-2012, 09:38 AM
Thanks again Seattle Mike for your post & super link on how to do it right to correct the problem
Everyone wants the easy way out, but yes I agree sometimes it's only a temporary solution to a problem 4-Sure..; My grandfather always said "Space, fix it right the 1st time" LOL
Something like muffler tape on a rusty tailpipe
..It works for a few miles & then blows `off..The bum's & I have used it on our GMC van (LOL)
Thanks everyone for your posts & contributions...
Everyone wants the easy way out, but yes I agree sometimes it's only a temporary solution to a problem 4-Sure..
; My grandfather always said "Space, fix it right the 1st time" LOLSomething like muffler tape on a rusty tailpipe
..It works for a few miles & then blows `off..The bum's & I have used it on our GMC van (LOL)Thanks everyone for your posts & contributions...
#9
10-18-2014, 06:26 AM
What did or would you do ?
How to Maintain a Car at 100,000 Miles: 4 Steps (with ...
www.wikihow.com › ... › Cars › Car Maintenance and Repair
wikiHow
Maintaining your vehicle at 100,000 miles (160,000 km) and beyond is easy if youperform periodic maintenance. General tune-ups are relatively inexpensive ..
wikiHow
Maintaining your vehicle at 100,000 miles (160,000 km) and beyond is easy if youperform periodic maintenance. General tune-ups are relatively inexpensive ..
#10
10-18-2014, 06:27 PM
For mine...
For the most part...I have done nearly everything on the list over the years...
The one greatest improvement I have done recently that truly helped...
I had a new set of Michelin all season Advantage tires installed. There 90,000 mile tries rated at 140+ MPH, with 3 yr free replacement Guarantee!
However, My goal was to put the original Goodyear RSA's back on it... But they no longer make them.. only P rated for cop cars and they are very low rated mileage tires... So, I passed on them.
I got 89k out of my original factory RSA's until the Mrs drove over a broken Semi truck spring on her way to work ... (That was 7 yrs ago)
For the last 7 yrs I had some Kelly springfield tires on it..Rated at 60,000 miles .that I had 59,385 miles on them before I replaced them with the Michelins..
Its amazeing how long you can make them last with regular rotations and balancing. Provided...you aren't doing burnouts and or drifting in reverse..
Great Post Space!
Thanks!!!
For the most part...I have done nearly everything on the list over the years...
The one greatest improvement I have done recently that truly helped...
I had a new set of Michelin all season Advantage tires installed. There 90,000 mile tries rated at 140+ MPH, with 3 yr free replacement Guarantee!
However, My goal was to put the original Goodyear RSA's back on it... But they no longer make them.. only P rated for cop cars and they are very low rated mileage tires... So, I passed on them.
I got 89k out of my original factory RSA's until the Mrs drove over a broken Semi truck spring on her way to work ... (That was 7 yrs ago)
For the last 7 yrs I had some Kelly springfield tires on it..Rated at 60,000 miles .that I had 59,385 miles on them before I replaced them with the Michelins..
Its amazeing how long you can make them last with regular rotations and balancing. Provided...you aren't doing burnouts and or drifting in reverse..
Great Post Space!
Thanks!!!