Greetings Monte Carlo Enthusiasts,

It's been a while since I've been on the forums but here goes:

I have a 2001 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS with a 3.8L and I took it in for inspection today and it failed without any check engine codes present, and because the Catalyst, Evaporator System, and EGR System are showing "Not Ready." Unfortunately, the state that I live in requires a passing inspection before I can register it, which by the way is overdue.

My question is: What is the proper procedure or sequence of driving for resetting the Catalyst, Evaporator System, and EGR System so that I can hopefully get a passing inspection report and get new license plates?

Any related input would be helpful. Thank you for your time and cooperation.

Thank You and Best Regards,

Dave

 

So are you saying that it failed because your systems Readiness isn't readable? Like maybe you took off the battery cable or just been charged not very long ago?

Problem is that if you just changed out the Battery it could be there is nothing for the Smog company to compare to so they fail it. Then you need to drive the car for about 90 miles over different ranges of speeds. Don't just get on the Freeway and drive 45 one way and 45 back and think that will cut it. Most times they say normal driving for 3 weeks and or 90 miles of travel.

Do you have a scanner? There is a I/M Test that you could do to check your system. First thing to note. Don't clear any codes in your system as it will fail as well. Some scanners you can check to see if your car has ran long enough for a Complete test for your next trip to Smog Check.

If you failed because your car has a CEL or Has EVAP issues that hasn't set a code yet but will. you will need to use a scanner to see what the Pending codes or Stored codes are.

James

 

Hi James,

I'm not trying to give you a hard time, and I'm sorry if the following is a dissertation, but anyone out there that can help me needs to know all of the relevant facts.

THE STORY:
I did disconnect the battery clear back in October of 2016 because I just had the rear knock sensor (the car is designed where one has to take off the sub-frame, and loosen the transmission to get enough physical clearance to install and replace a rear knock sensor) and rack and pinion replaced by a mechanic because I don't have a lift. I knew I wasn't going to be driving the car until likely February of 2017. I don't have a scanner.

Since February:
I drove it to one mechanic 7 miles from my residence and 7 miles back to make sure that there were no lingering check engine codes, and what the mechanic had informed me that the only code that they could find was a "Incorrect Gear Ratio Code" on the transmission, which everything on the car is stock. My best educated guess on the "Incorrect Gear Ratio Code" for the transmission, which shouldn't have any affect on emissions inspections for the engine, is because one of the wires on the speed sensor of the wheel hub pigtail had fell out. The wheel hub assembly for these cars is all one piece which includes the pigtail and to have the wheel hub assembly replaced it's about $1,200.00. I've had to replace 3 wheel hub assemblies in 2 years because of the same dilemma on the wire to the pigtail. So it's more convenient to drive without a very primitive Traction Control and the Traction Control along with ABS lights (doesn't count against on the inspection report) on than it is to keep replacing very expensive wheel hub assemblies all of the time. When I was coming back from this mechanic, I got about a mile away from my residence and the CEL came on. I took the car up to AutoZone for the CEL troubleshooting and the only code that it brought up was rear knock sensor. I looked under the car and the pigtail was dangling there. I popped it back in place but any electrical repairs mean disconnecting and reconnecting the battery again.

I then drove the car almost 200 miles since popping the rear knock sensor pigtail back in place again, have not disconnected the battery since, but nothing more than 43 miles in one stent and of that the first 4 are city along with the last 3. I then drove the car I later took it back to the same mechanic that specialized in Codes, again only a "Incorrect Gear Ratio Code." The mechanic asked me if the car had ever been driven 50 consecutive miles and I replied no. The mechanic told me to drive the car 50 consecutive miles and come back and see him in case any CEL codes came up. So the same day I drove the car 50 consecutive miles and again only the "Incorrect Gear Ratio Code" came up without any other CEL codes.

I took the car to be inspected last week and the same items from today's inspection persisted last week. They had asked me if I drove the car 100 consecutive miles and I answered no. I was instructed to drive 100 consecutive miles from a dead cold with the fuel between 1/4 and 3/4 full. Later that week from a dead cold with the fuel just a hair below 3/4 full on a level surface, I drove 4 miles in the city followed by 39 highway, had to come to a complete stop, another 39 highway miles, followed by 6 miles city, then 15 highway, then 3 city, totaling 105 miles. It's 3 miles from my residence to the inspection place.

Today, I took the car back to the inspection place, and it was failed because the Catalyst, Evaporator System, and EGR System are showing "Not Ready." I have to go on a couple of different tangents, but I start again on my reply after the two blank spaces:

INSPECTION PLACES CONDITIONS AND INSTRUCTIONS FOR RESETTING THESE SYSTEMS ON A 3.8L ENGINE (NEXT 2 PARAGRAPHS):

I. The conditions for running a non scan tool bay test equipped vehicles (the conditions that accompany the below driving are that:
1. the fuel level is between 15 -85 percent.
2. The battery voltage is between 10-18 volts.
3. The test will initiate only after a cold start.
The control module considers the engine to be cold if only the following conditions are met:
A. The engine coolant temperature (ECT) is between 4-30 degrees C (39-86 degrees F).
B. The air intake temperature (IAT) is between 4-30 degrees C (39-86 degrees F).
C. The difference between the ECT and the IAT is less than 8 degrees C (14 degrees F).

II. The instructions that I was provided from the inspection place are:
1. Once the engine is started, DO NOT turn off the engine for the remainder of the procedure until the test is complete.
2. Start the engine and idle.
3. Accelerate at a part throttle to 72km/h (45 mph) with this speed maintained until the engine reaches operating temperature. This may be up to 8-10 minutes depending on the start up coolant temperature.
4. Continue the operating conditions for an additional 3 minutes after the engine reaches operating temperature.

INSTRUCTIONS THAT I FOUND ON MY OWN FOR A 3.8 L ENGINE (NEXT 3 PARAGRAPHS):
I found the following for a 2001 Chevrolet Impala (same 3.8 L engine)
III. General Motors (specific) OBD II Drive Cycle

Performing a GM OBDII Driving cycle:

1. Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F (50°C) and within 11°F (6°C) of the ambient air temperature at startup.
Do not leave the key in prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
2. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire, and - if closed loop is achieved- Fuel Trim.
3. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 55mph (88km/hr) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
4. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
5. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph (32km/hr). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
6. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph (88-96 km/hr). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
7. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
8. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.


WHY I STARTED THIS PARTICULAR THREAD:
Now, the reason that I need people's input on this is, before I try either set of instructions and come back and face the possibility of getting yet another inspection report failed showing the exact same results, is I have two different sets of instructions for a 3.8 L engine, which I don't know which one to go with, and on top of that there are some concerns in facilitating either set of instructions.

Concerns On the Inspection Places Instructions; I.1&2 are no problem. I.3, I'm assuming that if the engine, coolant, and air would all be at room temperature if the car has been sitting for several hours and is a cold start. My concern, is that the area of the country that I live is still mostly below these ambient temperatures and it is still cool and mild in the morning, those ambient temperatures won't stay that way for very long. In fact, I live in an area of the country that during the summer, it's not that uncommon for the ambient temperature at 5 or 6 in the morning to only drop to 80 degrees F. II.1. No problem. II.2. How much time should I let the car idle, and I do use synthetic oil? II.3.&II.4. I From my residence I can drive 45 mph, but there is a strong possibility that at any given time that I could face up to 5 red lights and a train crossing. Since those would be potential breaks in driving at 45 mph, am I really supposed to keep trying until I get all green lights and no train crossing or how would it affect the resets?

Concerns On the instructions that I found on my own for a 3.8 L; III.1&2. No problem. III.3. It's almost 3 miles of city driving before I can even get to an area that I can legally drive 55 mph, and not be at risk for a speeding ticket. I'd really have to hope that hope that I don't run across a cop or any obstruction that would cause me to have to slow down or brake. III.4. Please see II.3&II.4 concerns that would be applicable from above only with the speed at 55 mph. III.8. Is this decelerate to a particular speed or decelerate without braking to a complete stop?

So in a recap, I've driven over 356 miles in trying to legally get my car registered so that I can drive it on a regular basis and not be in fear of walking out to my car from a store, bank, gas station, restaurant or any other public place and have an expired registration ticket awaiting for me. There aren't any CELs. The inspection report shows the Catalyst, Evaporator System, and EGR System as "Not Ready" causing the report to fail. I realize that most people don't have cars this old, but I'm just trying to legally be able to drive the car without any potential recourse from authorities and get new license plates, preferably as painless or not having to repeat steps and processes as possible. So if anyone has any expertise in this area of a GM 3.8 L series II engine than that relevant input would be helpful.

Thank you in advance for your time and cooperation.

Dave

 

Well I am glad that you were able to get the Info you need. I am sorry that the info I used to get my car to pass from a day that I took it to CA Smog Check the same day that I changed out the battery. I didn't know seeing it was my First Smog Check how or what it was they would do.

Anyway Sorry you having issues with your car. I was able to pass my Smog check the same day that they said what was needed to make it so my cars I/M Monitors were ready to be checked. I don't use my Scanner unless it is needed and even though it isn't 100% when using these scanners. I run my car for 90 miles total miles after I drove back to the Smog was 102 and it passed.

I hope someone will give you the INFO your looking for and the next time you test your able to Register your car.

 

I can't answer the question of how long it takes for everything to be "ready", but can tell you this...I've experienced the same problem. I bought a 2000 SS (3.8L) out of state last fall knowing the EVAP issue would cause a failed emission test. I have a Tech 2 scanner and reset codes after replacing the EVAP canister that was causing the code to be thrown. As Imp42017 mentioned, after a reset all codes appear whether the problem is real or not and can be seen in one particular function of the Tech 2 (sorry, can't remember which) and are displayed as "not ready". Most codes dropped off after 50 miles and 3 drive cycles, but the "Catalyst Inefficient" persisted for 500 miles under various driving conditions and several drive cycles before it cleared and passed emissions when tested. Fortunately, this is a project car that I didn't depend on for transportation. Wish I could explain why this is, but that was my experience.

 

Heres a lil tip.. go to ur local part store or better yet rock auto snd buy yourself quality brand wheel bearing/hub assemblies. I could buy all 4 all the way around and install them myself cause its easy and don't require any special tools aside from the axle nut socket.. all 4 wheel bearing assemblies with abs and built in speed sensors are less than 500 bucks with shipping. It always makes me sick to see people spend that kind of money on such a easy job.
Next one goes out, contact me.. ill buy part and do it for 100 bucks labor.. lol
Save u some money and i can make some easy cash.
Boy did that mechanic see u comin a mile away.
Shame.

 

Dave,

I had the same not ready issue with my 2001SS many years ago after I disconnected the battery and replaced the O2 sensor. I live near freeways and was able to perform the #III GM OBD-II drive cycle almost exactly and it worked for me. #8 is the same as #5, once you get down to 20, you just start driving normal.

I was told that the drive cycle was the minimum that would reset it (on a dyno) but that other driving with mixed speeds and such would reset over an unknown time (not really helpful). Note that #7 says may take 5 cycles. I sympathize with you on the total you have driven, I also did the 50-75 miles steady non-stop and failed.. Also, I would swear someone had a similar issue long ago that turning it off caused a reset and they solved it by going for the inspection after the cycle and not turning it off. I know that's a long shot. My memory may be faulty. Another long shot may be too few miles from cold start to the inspection place?

Also, I know you don't want to spend more money but did the mechanic look at your parameters on a live scanner and confirm that your catalyst efficiency is within limits? That's why I replaced the O2 sensor. I used a muffler shop for the scan.