High beam problem
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 3
High beam problem
Hello I'm new. I've gotten a lot of helpful info on here and I've finally decided to join. I love my monte and want to make it last forever. I'm posting this because I have a problem with my passenger high beam it won't turn on. Even if I hit the high beam switch. Driver side works fine and I've even swapped the driver side bulb with the passenger one and the it still won't work. If u guys could give me some tips on where to begin that be great. Also both low beams work fine thanks
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 114
It would be easier for answers if people knew what car you were asking about? Year is kind of a must.
So to help some with out the info needed.
If 00-05 there is 1 Relay that runs both Highs and Lows. So if your car lights are working then it is safe to say it isn't your Relay. Then there is the fuses, There is a High and Low fuse. If you have 1 working then it isn't that.
I have a question. Both Highs work when your DRL are working?
Ok now lets say you have a 06 + This is different. In this system there is a PCB Headlight relay for Both Highs and Lows. Then there is 2 fuses for right and Left High beams. So the good news is that it isn't your Relay. If one works then your Relay is good. So here is what you need to do. Remove the Fuse from your Right High Beam. Turn on your High beams and test that you have power. I am going to assume that if your car is in the last part of my post 06+ and you don't have power at the Right Fuse that you have a Internal Fuse box fault.
Inside the Fuse box there is a bunch of copper running around the box. For what ever reason this trace breaks and things stop working. I would assume that maybe there was a impact on the car at one time with the Highbeams on and rather then the fuse blowing the Trace went instead. If that is the Problem, At times you can get the Box part without having to buy the whole box from a Wrecking yard. Or you could always take the box apart and shave out a spot in the box, with a good Soldering Iron colder the trace back together and should be ok for some time.
James
So to help some with out the info needed.
If 00-05 there is 1 Relay that runs both Highs and Lows. So if your car lights are working then it is safe to say it isn't your Relay. Then there is the fuses, There is a High and Low fuse. If you have 1 working then it isn't that.
I have a question. Both Highs work when your DRL are working?
Ok now lets say you have a 06 + This is different. In this system there is a PCB Headlight relay for Both Highs and Lows. Then there is 2 fuses for right and Left High beams. So the good news is that it isn't your Relay. If one works then your Relay is good. So here is what you need to do. Remove the Fuse from your Right High Beam. Turn on your High beams and test that you have power. I am going to assume that if your car is in the last part of my post 06+ and you don't have power at the Right Fuse that you have a Internal Fuse box fault.
Inside the Fuse box there is a bunch of copper running around the box. For what ever reason this trace breaks and things stop working. I would assume that maybe there was a impact on the car at one time with the Highbeams on and rather then the fuse blowing the Trace went instead. If that is the Problem, At times you can get the Box part without having to buy the whole box from a Wrecking yard. Or you could always take the box apart and shave out a spot in the box, with a good Soldering Iron colder the trace back together and should be ok for some time.
James
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 114
For an 04 there is a Splice that is going to connect both High Beam wiring together. What is going to be different from the new MC is that if your One High Beam works then there is no issue with Relay or Fuse. Only 1 relay is Shared between High and Low and 1 Relay for DRL the DRL Relay is a 5 pin relay that changes the Highs from Full power to Series by grounding.
Do you get a High beam out notice? The Problem is in these years of the MC and impala they used to the High beams as the DRL. If someone tried to mod the car DRL relay it can make it so only 1 Headlight would work but also gives a CEL or Headlight out on the Cluster. Most times the issue with that wrong mod it make it so the Drivers side wouldn't work.
If your Passenger side Hi beam is not working then your DRL also wouldn't be working. Because the DRL is setup to Put the Highbeam in a Series configuration. This does a couple of things. It checks the Ground for the system, and pulls power from the Right Fuse. EXT/LTS is the Right Fuse for both Hi and Low beams. Seeing you said your lows both work that kind of tells me it is not Fuse related.
Also there is some other testing that I could do and would do. I am in no way telling you that you need to buy these special tools for running your tests on your lights. I can tell you that the cost of one of the tools would be cheaper then paying a 12Volt Specialist to repair your problem. Anyway I have a tool (The Probe 3) that is a test light and power or ground injector. With the car off I can take my Probe and test the Pink wire. However it shows 12v because there is no ground being sent to the wire from the Headlight Relay and Multi Switch. So I can then press a button on my probe that will inject ground on the wire and doing so turns on my high beams. Light wiring can be confusing to some people because if they test a wire that has 12v and don't know how it work they may think there is a short on that line. IN real the 12v is passing through the light bulb. without ground to meet it the light don't glow.
If it was me and I was trying to find this issue without the tools I have, I would take out both Bulbs for the Highs. Test the Ground wire from the Drivers side over to the Passengers side and see if there was continuity between the 2. (Pink wires) With a DVOM/DMM (If you don't have one you can get a Cheap one at most stores for under 20.) If there wasn't I would use a Tone Generator AKA a Fox and Hound to find out where the break is. If I didn't have one. I would look over the wiring to try and find where it is broken.
James
Do you get a High beam out notice? The Problem is in these years of the MC and impala they used to the High beams as the DRL. If someone tried to mod the car DRL relay it can make it so only 1 Headlight would work but also gives a CEL or Headlight out on the Cluster. Most times the issue with that wrong mod it make it so the Drivers side wouldn't work.
If your Passenger side Hi beam is not working then your DRL also wouldn't be working. Because the DRL is setup to Put the Highbeam in a Series configuration. This does a couple of things. It checks the Ground for the system, and pulls power from the Right Fuse. EXT/LTS is the Right Fuse for both Hi and Low beams. Seeing you said your lows both work that kind of tells me it is not Fuse related.
Also there is some other testing that I could do and would do. I am in no way telling you that you need to buy these special tools for running your tests on your lights. I can tell you that the cost of one of the tools would be cheaper then paying a 12Volt Specialist to repair your problem. Anyway I have a tool (The Probe 3) that is a test light and power or ground injector. With the car off I can take my Probe and test the Pink wire. However it shows 12v because there is no ground being sent to the wire from the Headlight Relay and Multi Switch. So I can then press a button on my probe that will inject ground on the wire and doing so turns on my high beams. Light wiring can be confusing to some people because if they test a wire that has 12v and don't know how it work they may think there is a short on that line. IN real the 12v is passing through the light bulb. without ground to meet it the light don't glow.
If it was me and I was trying to find this issue without the tools I have, I would take out both Bulbs for the Highs. Test the Ground wire from the Drivers side over to the Passengers side and see if there was continuity between the 2. (Pink wires) With a DVOM/DMM (If you don't have one you can get a Cheap one at most stores for under 20.) If there wasn't I would use a Tone Generator AKA a Fox and Hound to find out where the break is. If I didn't have one. I would look over the wiring to try and find where it is broken.
James
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 3
There's something going on with the wiring for sure. I'm pretty sure it's the ground or something. I did get a high beam out message. I had that message for a couple days so I decided to make a post on this forum. Yesterday I swapped the high beam light bulbs the passenger side wasn't working even with a good bulb. So I left it like that and figured i would see what u guys tell me. Today I go to work at 430am still dark. So low beams come on I get out at one. Turn the car on and head home. I pull over to pump gas an noticed the high beam out message wasn't on when I first started it. At a stop light I see my headlights reflection on the car in front of me an boom both high beams are on. I flicker the high beams and turn on the lows and everything was working. I'm sure there's something to do with the wiring. Just to make a note. The headlight I'm having this issue with is aftermarket.
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 114
Yes so more then likely it is a Harness connection for the Lights. I would take them apart and look over the connections Could be that the Harness has let water in and is making a bad connection. Little bit of Sand paper or 00 Grit steel wool works good on the pins. At times taking the 2 parts apart and back together a couple of times can clean up the connection as well...
Sadly it isn't something someone could just go and tighten up the ground to the body. that is because of the complex wiring that is setup in these cars.
Glad it is working again. If there is some points that wires were spliced into your lights I would look over them and make sure they were not damaged when first setup and has taken some time to short out. Like if someone was to use Scotch Locs on the wiring, it could be that it cut the wires and only left a couple of strands that over time has broke the rest of the way. Now with moving the wiring it has put a Kink in the area where now the 2 points are making a connection. Just may not last long if not fixed.
James
Sadly it isn't something someone could just go and tighten up the ground to the body. that is because of the complex wiring that is setup in these cars.
Glad it is working again. If there is some points that wires were spliced into your lights I would look over them and make sure they were not damaged when first setup and has taken some time to short out. Like if someone was to use Scotch Locs on the wiring, it could be that it cut the wires and only left a couple of strands that over time has broke the rest of the way. Now with moving the wiring it has put a Kink in the area where now the 2 points are making a connection. Just may not last long if not fixed.
James
