Track Talk 1st WeekEnd of May 2010 + More Tips
#1
05-04-2010, 05:03 AM
Track Talk 1st WeekEnd of May 2010 + More Tips
Track Talk for the weekend of April 30 - May 2THE BIG STORY It was a tale of two races for Kyle Busch Saturday night at Richmond International Raceway. He dominated the first half from the pole, faded, then passed Jeff Gordon on a restart with five laps to go and won the Crown Royal Heath Calhoun 400. Gordon was second - for the eighth time since his last win over a year ago - followed by Kevin Harvick, Jeff Burton and Carl Edwards. Harvick is 10 points ahead of Jimmie Johnson (10th).
Also: Crew chiefs Chad Knaus and Alan Gustafson signed contract extensions with Hendrick Motorsports . . . The IRL will use its existing points system to crown separate oval track and road course champions as well as an overall series champion . . . For violations discovered after the Talladega Nationwide race, NASCAR docked winner Brad Keselowski 50 driver points and crew chief Paul Wolfe was fined $20,000 for an unapproved left-front spring and right-front shock . . . Steve Kinser won the World of Outlaws feature Saturday night at Jackson Speedway in Minnesota.
NASCAR Sprint Cup Series Kyle Busch won the pole Friday at Richmond with a 127.077 mph lap. He took the lead at the start Saturday night. The first yellow came when Joe Nemechek got into the wall. Busch's Toyota led the opening 140 laps, through green-flag pit stops, until Jeff Gordon got a brief advantage. Ryan Newman used a two-tire pit stop to move ahead on lap 171 as Busch and Gordon ran side-by-side. On lap 200, Dale Earnhardt Jr. pitted under green with a flat tire after contact with another car. He lost three laps and finished 32d. On lap 230, Jeff Burton passed Busch for the lead. Busch's car was showing smoke from an apparent tire rub and started to drop back. On lap 250, Gordon passed Burton in traffic. Gordon's Chevrolet stayed in front through pit sequences. With 34 laps to go, Elliott Sadler crashed. The green waved with 23 laps left and Gordon pulled away from Burton. With 21 laps left, David Ragan spun. The green came out again with 15 to go. Gordon again led, then Sam Hornish Jr. crashed. Busch, who had pitted for four new tires, lined up alongside Gordon for the restart and moved ahead. He finished .755 second ahead for his first win of the season and first with crew chief Dave Rogers. He averaged 99.567 mph with six yellows for 37 laps. A.J. Allmendinger qualified 15th in the Valvoline Ford and finished 17th.
NASCAR Nationwide Series Brad Keselowski was fourth for the green-white-checker restart but won Friday night's Bubba Burger 250 at Richmond by .261 second over Greg Biffle. Keselowski's Dodge was cruising toward a second straight victory when a late yellow resulted in him pitting with six laps to go for four new tires. Kyle Busch and others stayed out. Busch led the restart, then Biffle charged, but Keselowski got by and led 189 of the 252 laps. Jamie McMurray was third and Busch fourth. Keselowski averaged 91.194 mph with seven yellows for 45 laps. Keselowski tops Kevin Harvick (seventh) by 59 points.
NASCAR Camping World Truck Series Johnny Sauter won Sunday's O'Reilly Auto Parts 250 at Kansas Speedway after saving his Chevrolet from a spinout with 12 laps to go. Ron Hornaday Jr. dove under Sauter for the lead between turns three and four, got loose slowing for traffic, and moved up into Sauter. They both got sideways, but both drivers recovered on to a 1-2 finish. Sauter got his second career series win by five seconds. Todd Bodine was third. The race was stopped by heavy rain and hail with just over 50 laps to go but resumed. Sauter averaged 110.934 mph with seven yellows for 37 of the 167 laps. Timothy Peters (23d) leads Bodine by 22 points.
NHRA Full Throttle Drag Racing SeriesSunday's AAA Midwest Nationals at Gateway International Raceway, outside St. Louis, wrapped with Tony Schumacher, Robert Hight, Warren Johnson and Michael Phillips in the winner's circle. In Top Fuel, Schumacher's U.S. Army dragster powered to a 3.849 second, 317.87 mph win over Doug Kalitta's 4.041, 313.07 mph. Larry Dixon is 41 points ahead of Cory McClenathan. In Funny Car, Hight's Ford Mustang ran 4.149, 304.25 mph to win over Jack Beckman's 4.204, 296.44 mph in the Valvoline/MTS Dodge Charger. Beckman qualified third. John Force is 151 points ahead of Matt Hagan. In Pro Stock, Johnson won for the first time since Phoenix in 2006 with a 6.670, 207.75 mph pass in his Pontiac GXP as Jeg Coughin Jr.'s Chevrolet Cobalt broke after staging. Ron Krisher qualified fifth in the Valvoline Cobalt and lost in the first round. Mike Edwards is 286 points clear of Allen Johnson. In Pro Stock Motorcycle, Phillips' 6.926, 193.99 mph on a Suzuki overcame LE Tonglet's near-perfect .001 light but his Suzuki ran 7.002, 189.47 mph. Craig Treble qualified second on the Valvoline Suzuki and lost in the second round. Hector Arana is 48 points up on Eddie Krawiec.
Izod IndyCar SeriesScott Dixon was an easy winner in Saturday's Road Runner Turbo 300 at Kansas. He led the final 150 of the 200 laps and beat teammate Dario Franchitti by three seconds. Tony Kanaan was third. Poleman Ryan Briscoe led the opening 31 laps, Dixon went ahead from 32-48, Franchitti led 49-50, and then Dixon was in command. He averaged 164.741 mph with four yellows for 33 laps. Will Power (12th) leads Dixon by 26 points.
Racer of the WeekBrad Keselowski. Went from fourth to first in the last two laps of the Richmond Nationwide race.
Yes, He REALLY Said ThatHoward Comstock, Dodge Motorsports engineer, on Richmond. "Drivers overuse the brakes trying to get a stubborn car to get through the corners and that's when you run into problems. But the driver that wins the race won't talk about brakes, he'll talk about how good his car handled."
Valvoline Winner Last WeekendTony Schumacher, NHRA Top Fuel class, Gateway.
This Weekend NASCAR runs Saturday night at Darlington, with Friday night Nationwide racing. Formula One is in Spain.
MCF Member's: Get ready 2 post your Top 3 @ dARLINGTON : )
Last edited by Space; 05-04-2010 at 05:36 AM.
#2
05-04-2010, 05:06 AM
Bonus from above newsletter.
Knowledge is Power & can save your engine & $'s.
This is not a endosement by MCF.
It's always your choice on what is best for your Monte, and
your Life....It's your $'s 4-Sure....
The Best Guarantee in the Business
Our products are so good, we're standing behind them. Use Valvoline every 3,000 miles, and we'll guarantee your engine for free. Check out all the details.
Check it out
The Protection of Premium Chemistry
For more than 50 years, we've been protecting many of the world's finest vehicles as the original fill fluid. Give your engine the protection of premium chemistry.
Read on
Don't Take Chances
This short video will let you see for yourself how using the wrong antifreeze could be a costly mistake.
Learn more
Keeping Your Cool-ant
Although draining and refilling your coolant used to be a whole lot simpler, here's an easy, no-hassle way to drain and fill.
Read about it
Hope the above might help a Member.....Knowledge is Power & can save U dollars & a trouble`free Monte Carlo....
Fluids are the auto life blood for your Monte 4-Sure
Keeping Your Cool-ant
The no-hassle, drain-and-fill drill
Created by Phil Coconis
Draining and filling your cooling system used to be a whole lot simpler. Back in the early days of ethylene glycol coolant/antifreeze, all you had to do was reach for the drain petcock at the bottom of the all-metal radiator and let it dribble into the drain pan. Then you refilled the radiator with a fresh 50/50 mix of coolant and water until you could see it at the "Full" line embossed into the radiator tank. After tightening down the radiator cap, off you went, with nary a need for a second look at your work. Try that procedure on a modern passenger car or truck today and you will likely end up with an abbreviated drive and maybe a "cooked" engine to go along with it!
New-Age Cool
Lots of changes have been made to vehicle cooling and heating systems in recent years, such as reverse flow (bottom to top of radiator) for more even cylinder block/head temperatures. This new system allows for a faster warm-up, thereby reducing exhaust emissions (and complaints from passengers on those cold winter days). New designs also promote increased engine durability since aluminum radiator and heater cores are more efficient than copper and allow for more compact packaging and lighter weight. Moreover, the use of computer-aided design, coupled with thermoplastic technology, allows engineers to boldly go where no slide rule ever allowed them to go before.
Rear heater units are becoming commonplace in minivans and larger SUVs. Other advancements include dual-stage thermostats for tighter temperature control, electric fans actuated by the engine management computer (not a dedicated fan switch circuit), complex climate controls, long-life coolants, and so on. Many of these technologies have had a negative impact on serviceability. Radiator drain plugs are less accessible and "air locks" inhibit easy draining/filling of the system. These new designs may also block visual inspection of critical components as well as access to routinely replaced components (thermostats, hoses). With a little time, patience, and know-how, however, these obstacles can be overcome. Here's a quick checklist of tips for dealing with your new-age cooling system:
Drain the System
Determine if you can reach the drain plug by hand. Bear in mind that not all drain plugs are created equal and take different techniques to operate correctly. For instance, some plastic GM types turn 90 degrees, hit a stop and then must be pulled outward, so pay attention and don't force anything! If the drain isn't easily reached, then you'll have to remove the lower radiator hose. Fortunately, plastic radiator tanks make this process easy, as hoses usually don't "weld" themselves to this material. Direct the coolant into a large collector with at least a two-gallon capacity (similar to those used in transmission service). To insure maximum drainage, carefully remove the uppermost heater or bypass hose (there are special tools for this so damage doesn't occur in case you're especially heavy-handed) and loosen any "bleeder screws" provided.
Inspect for Sludge
Drain out any coolant in the reservoir (overflow bottle) as well and check sludge deposits in the bottom. It may be necessary to remove the reservoir to accomplish both of these tasks. Usually, half-filling the reservoir with clean water and shaking it (rock 'n roll or bartender-style, take your pick) will loosen the sludge. Dispose of this funky mixture and the used coolant in a responsible, legal way (usually outlined on the new coolant container). Next, inspect the radiator cap for seal damage and sludge packed in the spring area. Replace it if signs of either are present.
Know Your Stats
If you're changing the thermostat at this time, keep in mind that all 'stats are not created equal, either. Carefully compare your replacement to the original one. If you're not using the exact original replacement part, the replacement part you have should exactly resemble the original, especially in the number of "stages" it has (one or two—check the center area) and other features like a "jiggle valve." This valve is essential for quicker and more thorough initial filling of the system. Its absence will be replaced by your grief during the run-in procedure.
Picking Coolant
Make sure that you have the correct type of coolant for your vehicle. There are at least several distinct coolant types commonly used today, and using a type incompatible with the coolant recommended in the owner's manual (or on the underhood label) is inviting disaster (no exaggeration here). Whatever the type, it should be added in a 50/50 coolant/water concentration (well, at least some things haven't changed!). If the lower radiator hose had to be removed for drainage, reinstall using the factory "spring-type" clamp. Hopefully the original one didn't get distorted so you can reuse it. If you must use a "worm-gear" type clamp, be very careful not to over-tighten (an easy thing to do with a plastic tank) as the tank fitting can crack, which will require replacing your radiator!
Refill Procedure
Check for refill instructions printed on any underhood labels and follow those instructions. Otherwise, slowly pour the coolant mixture into the radiator. As the tank fills up, take your hand and repeatedly squeeze the lower radiator hose. This action activates the "jiggle valve." Continue filling until coolant comes out of the dislodged heater/bypass hose, its companion fitting or the bleeder screw(s)—or it reaches the top of the filler neck and stays there. Reinstall the hose, tighten the bleeder screw and install the radiator cap. Fill the reservoir to the "Full" mark. You're now ready for the run-in procedure.
Run-in Procedure
Turn interior temperature controls to "hot," or equivalent, and start the engine. Within about a minute, the heater/bypass hoses should be warming. After two minutes, there should be some heat noticeable at the heater air outlets (fan set to slowest speed). Check that the temperature gauge does not go past the halfway point without heat present at the heater outlets. If there is no heat present, shut the engine off and wait about ten minutes. Turn the ignition key on and check the temperature gauge. If it's dropped significantly, go to the radiator cap and slowly and carefully, preferably with a padded glove, relieve any built up pressure. Only after that can you then gingerly remove the cap. Perform the refill procedure again, but this time fill the radiator extremely slowly, as engine damage may occur otherwise. Continue with this run-in procedure until the heater functions normally, the radiator cooling fans (if so equipped) operate normally and the coolant level remains full in the radiator and reservoir. Certainly, this tedious fill procedure isn't as easy as in the "old days," but then again, when it comes to servicing modern vehicles, very little is.
Knowledge is Power & can save your engine & $'s.
This is not a endosement by MCF.
It's always your choice on what is best for your Monte, and
your Life....It's your $'s 4-Sure....
The Best Guarantee in the Business
Our products are so good, we're standing behind them. Use Valvoline every 3,000 miles, and we'll guarantee your engine for free. Check out all the details.Check it out
The Protection of Premium Chemistry
For more than 50 years, we've been protecting many of the world's finest vehicles as the original fill fluid. Give your engine the protection of premium chemistry. Read on
Don't Take Chances
This short video will let you see for yourself how using the wrong antifreeze could be a costly mistake.Learn more
Keeping Your Cool-ant
Although draining and refilling your coolant used to be a whole lot simpler, here's an easy, no-hassle way to drain and fill.Read about it
Hope the above might help a Member.....Knowledge is Power & can save U dollars & a trouble`free Monte Carlo....
Fluids are the auto life blood for your Monte 4-Sure
Keeping Your Cool-ant
The no-hassle, drain-and-fill drill
Created by Phil Coconis
Draining and filling your cooling system used to be a whole lot simpler. Back in the early days of ethylene glycol coolant/antifreeze, all you had to do was reach for the drain petcock at the bottom of the all-metal radiator and let it dribble into the drain pan. Then you refilled the radiator with a fresh 50/50 mix of coolant and water until you could see it at the "Full" line embossed into the radiator tank. After tightening down the radiator cap, off you went, with nary a need for a second look at your work. Try that procedure on a modern passenger car or truck today and you will likely end up with an abbreviated drive and maybe a "cooked" engine to go along with it!
New-Age Cool
Lots of changes have been made to vehicle cooling and heating systems in recent years, such as reverse flow (bottom to top of radiator) for more even cylinder block/head temperatures. This new system allows for a faster warm-up, thereby reducing exhaust emissions (and complaints from passengers on those cold winter days). New designs also promote increased engine durability since aluminum radiator and heater cores are more efficient than copper and allow for more compact packaging and lighter weight. Moreover, the use of computer-aided design, coupled with thermoplastic technology, allows engineers to boldly go where no slide rule ever allowed them to go before.
Rear heater units are becoming commonplace in minivans and larger SUVs. Other advancements include dual-stage thermostats for tighter temperature control, electric fans actuated by the engine management computer (not a dedicated fan switch circuit), complex climate controls, long-life coolants, and so on. Many of these technologies have had a negative impact on serviceability. Radiator drain plugs are less accessible and "air locks" inhibit easy draining/filling of the system. These new designs may also block visual inspection of critical components as well as access to routinely replaced components (thermostats, hoses). With a little time, patience, and know-how, however, these obstacles can be overcome. Here's a quick checklist of tips for dealing with your new-age cooling system:
Drain the System
Determine if you can reach the drain plug by hand. Bear in mind that not all drain plugs are created equal and take different techniques to operate correctly. For instance, some plastic GM types turn 90 degrees, hit a stop and then must be pulled outward, so pay attention and don't force anything! If the drain isn't easily reached, then you'll have to remove the lower radiator hose. Fortunately, plastic radiator tanks make this process easy, as hoses usually don't "weld" themselves to this material. Direct the coolant into a large collector with at least a two-gallon capacity (similar to those used in transmission service). To insure maximum drainage, carefully remove the uppermost heater or bypass hose (there are special tools for this so damage doesn't occur in case you're especially heavy-handed) and loosen any "bleeder screws" provided.
Inspect for Sludge
Drain out any coolant in the reservoir (overflow bottle) as well and check sludge deposits in the bottom. It may be necessary to remove the reservoir to accomplish both of these tasks. Usually, half-filling the reservoir with clean water and shaking it (rock 'n roll or bartender-style, take your pick) will loosen the sludge. Dispose of this funky mixture and the used coolant in a responsible, legal way (usually outlined on the new coolant container). Next, inspect the radiator cap for seal damage and sludge packed in the spring area. Replace it if signs of either are present.
Know Your Stats
If you're changing the thermostat at this time, keep in mind that all 'stats are not created equal, either. Carefully compare your replacement to the original one. If you're not using the exact original replacement part, the replacement part you have should exactly resemble the original, especially in the number of "stages" it has (one or two—check the center area) and other features like a "jiggle valve." This valve is essential for quicker and more thorough initial filling of the system. Its absence will be replaced by your grief during the run-in procedure.
Picking Coolant
Make sure that you have the correct type of coolant for your vehicle. There are at least several distinct coolant types commonly used today, and using a type incompatible with the coolant recommended in the owner's manual (or on the underhood label) is inviting disaster (no exaggeration here). Whatever the type, it should be added in a 50/50 coolant/water concentration (well, at least some things haven't changed!). If the lower radiator hose had to be removed for drainage, reinstall using the factory "spring-type" clamp. Hopefully the original one didn't get distorted so you can reuse it. If you must use a "worm-gear" type clamp, be very careful not to over-tighten (an easy thing to do with a plastic tank) as the tank fitting can crack, which will require replacing your radiator!
Refill Procedure
Check for refill instructions printed on any underhood labels and follow those instructions. Otherwise, slowly pour the coolant mixture into the radiator. As the tank fills up, take your hand and repeatedly squeeze the lower radiator hose. This action activates the "jiggle valve." Continue filling until coolant comes out of the dislodged heater/bypass hose, its companion fitting or the bleeder screw(s)—or it reaches the top of the filler neck and stays there. Reinstall the hose, tighten the bleeder screw and install the radiator cap. Fill the reservoir to the "Full" mark. You're now ready for the run-in procedure.
Run-in Procedure
Turn interior temperature controls to "hot," or equivalent, and start the engine. Within about a minute, the heater/bypass hoses should be warming. After two minutes, there should be some heat noticeable at the heater air outlets (fan set to slowest speed). Check that the temperature gauge does not go past the halfway point without heat present at the heater outlets. If there is no heat present, shut the engine off and wait about ten minutes. Turn the ignition key on and check the temperature gauge. If it's dropped significantly, go to the radiator cap and slowly and carefully, preferably with a padded glove, relieve any built up pressure. Only after that can you then gingerly remove the cap. Perform the refill procedure again, but this time fill the radiator extremely slowly, as engine damage may occur otherwise. Continue with this run-in procedure until the heater functions normally, the radiator cooling fans (if so equipped) operate normally and the coolant level remains full in the radiator and reservoir. Certainly, this tedious fill procedure isn't as easy as in the "old days," but then again, when it comes to servicing modern vehicles, very little is.
Last edited by Space; 05-04-2010 at 05:29 AM.
#3
05-04-2010, 07:49 AM
2010 SHOWTIME Southern 500 Weekend Schedule
Darlington Raceway 2010 SHOWTIME Southern 500 Weekend Schedule of Events
Friday, May 7th9:00 a.m. Gates open
8:30 a.m. - 11:00 a.m. Nationwide Series Final Practice
11:30 a.m. – 1:00 p.m. Sprint Cup Practice
1:30 p.m. – 3:00 p.m. Sprint Cup Final Practice
3:10 p.m. Nationwide Series Qualifying
5:10 p.m. Sprint Cup Series Qualifying
7:30 p.m. Darlington 200 NASCAR Nationwide Series Race (147 Laps, 200.8 Miles)
Saturday, May 8th
9:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. Richard Petty Driving Experience Race Day Rides
2:00 p.m. Gates Open
7:00 p.m. NASCAR Sprint Cup Series Driver Introductions
7:30 p.m. SHOWTIME Southern 500 Sprint Cup Series Race (367 Laps, 501.3 Miles)
Darlington Raceway 2010 SHOWTIME Southern 500 Weekend Display Area Schedule of Events
Friday, May 7th
1:30 PM - 1:45 PM Ricky Stenhouse, Jr. Q&A at the Ford display
5:00 PM - 5:15 PM Colin Braun Q&A at the Ford display
Saturday, May 8th
1:00 PM - 2:00 PM Inside NASCAR cast autographs and Q & A session at Showtime Networks display
2:00 PM - 4:00 PM Ric Flair appearance at the SC Education Lottery display
2:00 PM Concert on the Coca-Cola sound stage in the display area
3:00 PM - 4:00 PM Strikeforce host and MMA legand, Frank Shamrock and Strikeforce heavyweight Brett Rogers - autographs and Q & A at the Chevy display
3:00 PM Concert on the Coca-Cola sound stage in the display area
4:00 PM Concert on the Coca-Cola sound stage in the display area
4:00 PM Jeff Burton Q & A at the Chevy display
4:00 PM - 5:00 PM Inside NASCAR cast autographs and Q & A session at Showtime Networks display
4:00 PM - 4:15 PM Matt Kenseth Q&A at the Ford display
4:15 PM - 4:30 PM Greg Biffle Q&A at the Ford display
4:45 PM #1 Pit Crew autograph session at the Chevy display
*All times subject to change
1:30 PM - 1:45 PM Ricky Stenhouse, Jr. Q&A at the Ford display
5:00 PM - 5:15 PM Colin Braun Q&A at the Ford display
Saturday, May 8th
1:00 PM - 2:00 PM Inside NASCAR cast autographs and Q & A session at Showtime Networks display
2:00 PM - 4:00 PM Ric Flair appearance at the SC Education Lottery display
2:00 PM Concert on the Coca-Cola sound stage in the display area
3:00 PM - 4:00 PM Strikeforce host and MMA legand, Frank Shamrock and Strikeforce heavyweight Brett Rogers - autographs and Q & A at the Chevy display
3:00 PM Concert on the Coca-Cola sound stage in the display area
4:00 PM Concert on the Coca-Cola sound stage in the display area
4:00 PM Jeff Burton Q & A at the Chevy display
4:00 PM - 5:00 PM Inside NASCAR cast autographs and Q & A session at Showtime Networks display
4:00 PM - 4:15 PM Matt Kenseth Q&A at the Ford display
4:15 PM - 4:30 PM Greg Biffle Q&A at the Ford display
4:45 PM #1 Pit Crew autograph session at the Chevy display
*All times subject to change
#5
05-05-2010, 03:57 AM
~>
Hi `Brent, I did not want you to say there's nothing new to read on the MCF : ) Will you watch the race Saturday night ? Do you like the Darlington Track ? Do U get dizzy ? Watch'in them going around in circles 
LOLLook 4ward to see who you pick for the Top 3.
Wish U & reader's a Happy ~> `Now : )
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