6th Gen ('00-'05): What are these parts called? Need replacement
#1
08-04-2013 | 02:52 PM
What are these parts called? Need replacement
So I go out to change thermostat housing gasket and threw on some music, when i put the car in *** i start to hear clicking under the hood and found this
Clicking From What I Believe Is The IAC - YouTube
Also did a thermostat pressure test and found leaks at these 2 places atleast what are these parts?
Clicking From What I Believe Is The IAC - YouTube
Also did a thermostat pressure test and found leaks at these 2 places atleast what are these parts?
Last edited by owens91; 08-04-2013 at 03:59 PM.
#3
08-04-2013 | 10:02 PM
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 12,270
From: Mentor, Ohio
OK, without taking the UIM off, it's hard to say 100% where your issues are. BUT odds are pretty high you have a bad UIM and throttle body gaskets (if you buy the Dorman UIM kit, it will include the Throttle body gasket, I think the kit is like $30). Doesn't take long to change out (not sure if the kit includes new injector O-rings, if not make sure to get some).
When taking the UIM off, before putting it in, try to run compressed air through the ports that run coolant in and out of the Thottle body while holding your finger over the other end. This is to ensure the UIM does not also have a failure at the EGR stove pipe that goes between the two coolant lines.
Next, that hose is a heater hose. I've never had a reason to take that bolt out and re-seat it. You mentioned it's as tight as it goes, I would remove the bolt completely and see if the threads are damaged. If so, depending on the damage you MIGHT get lucky chasing the threads on the hole and the bolt. If not, then you may need to go a slightly larger bolt. But with how loose that hose fitting it, I would not want to drive it with that issue.
Also, if there is an O-Ring in that fitting, I would replace it. It's probably original to the car, even though it may look good, it might not be holding a seal.
Hope that helps.
When taking the UIM off, before putting it in, try to run compressed air through the ports that run coolant in and out of the Thottle body while holding your finger over the other end. This is to ensure the UIM does not also have a failure at the EGR stove pipe that goes between the two coolant lines.
Next, that hose is a heater hose. I've never had a reason to take that bolt out and re-seat it. You mentioned it's as tight as it goes, I would remove the bolt completely and see if the threads are damaged. If so, depending on the damage you MIGHT get lucky chasing the threads on the hole and the bolt. If not, then you may need to go a slightly larger bolt. But with how loose that hose fitting it, I would not want to drive it with that issue.
Also, if there is an O-Ring in that fitting, I would replace it. It's probably original to the car, even though it may look good, it might not be holding a seal.
Hope that helps.
#4
08-04-2013 | 10:30 PM
OK, without taking the UIM off, it's hard to say 100% where your issues are. BUT odds are pretty high you have a bad UIM and throttle body gaskets (if you buy the Dorman UIM kit, it will include the Throttle body gasket, I think the kit is like $30). Doesn't take long to change out (not sure if the kit includes new injector O-rings, if not make sure to get some).
When taking the UIM off, before putting it in, try to run compressed air through the ports that run coolant in and out of the Thottle body while holding your finger over the other end. This is to ensure the UIM does not also have a failure at the EGR stove pipe that goes between the two coolant lines.
Next, that hose is a heater hose. I've never had a reason to take that bolt out and re-seat it. You mentioned it's as tight as it goes, I would remove the bolt completely and see if the threads are damaged. If so, depending on the damage you MIGHT get lucky chasing the threads on the hole and the bolt. If not, then you may need to go a slightly larger bolt. But with how loose that hose fitting it, I would not want to drive it with that issue.
Also, if there is an O-Ring in that fitting, I would replace it. It's probably original to the car, even though it may look good, it might not be holding a seal.
Hope that helps.
When taking the UIM off, before putting it in, try to run compressed air through the ports that run coolant in and out of the Thottle body while holding your finger over the other end. This is to ensure the UIM does not also have a failure at the EGR stove pipe that goes between the two coolant lines.
Next, that hose is a heater hose. I've never had a reason to take that bolt out and re-seat it. You mentioned it's as tight as it goes, I would remove the bolt completely and see if the threads are damaged. If so, depending on the damage you MIGHT get lucky chasing the threads on the hole and the bolt. If not, then you may need to go a slightly larger bolt. But with how loose that hose fitting it, I would not want to drive it with that issue.
Also, if there is an O-Ring in that fitting, I would replace it. It's probably original to the car, even though it may look good, it might not be holding a seal.
Hope that helps.
#6
08-06-2013 | 04:46 PM
glad to hear that i have a friend with the same engine and he said his does that randomly when he cleans the engine bay out, thanks
#7
08-06-2013 | 04:50 PM
UPDATE: i fixed the heater hose bolt with a replacement and it sits tightly and correct. I believed this was where the coolant was leaking from that ended up on the ground..unfortunetly it is not, on the passenger side undercarrige i am still leaking 
i plan on ordering the UIM gaskets, what is a good reliable brand for this?
i plan on ordering the UIM gaskets, what is a good reliable brand for this?
#8
08-06-2013 | 10:33 PM
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 12,270
From: Mentor, Ohio
I'm using the Dorman UIM gaskets. If you end up needing an entire UIM, I would suggest the APN kit (comes with the full gasket kit). I believe the Dorman kit is about $30+ shipping, the APN I think is $100+ shipping.
Just checked the APN, it's more like $100 SHIPPED. Here's the link for it if you are interested:
GM Intake Manifold Kit
Unfortunately, it's hard to advise what exactly is the best route without pulling the intake off and inspecting. If the UIM on you car is damaged, allowing coolant to blow in where the EGR stove pipe is, you either need to replace the UIM or block off the coolant ports on the LIM.
Just checked the APN, it's more like $100 SHIPPED. Here's the link for it if you are interested:
GM Intake Manifold Kit
Unfortunately, it's hard to advise what exactly is the best route without pulling the intake off and inspecting. If the UIM on you car is damaged, allowing coolant to blow in where the EGR stove pipe is, you either need to replace the UIM or block off the coolant ports on the LIM.
#9
08-06-2013 | 11:09 PM
I'm using the Dorman UIM gaskets. If you end up needing an entire UIM, I would suggest the APN kit (comes with the full gasket kit). I believe the Dorman kit is about $30+ shipping, the APN I think is $100+ shipping.
Just checked the APN, it's more like $100 SHIPPED. Here's the link for it if you are interested:
GM Intake Manifold Kit
Unfortunately, it's hard to advise what exactly is the best route without pulling the intake off and inspecting. If the UIM on you car is damaged, allowing coolant to blow in where the EGR stove pipe is, you either need to replace the UIM or block off the coolant ports on the LIM.
Just checked the APN, it's more like $100 SHIPPED. Here's the link for it if you are interested:
GM Intake Manifold Kit
Unfortunately, it's hard to advise what exactly is the best route without pulling the intake off and inspecting. If the UIM on you car is damaged, allowing coolant to blow in where the EGR stove pipe is, you either need to replace the UIM or block off the coolant ports on the LIM.
#10
08-07-2013 | 06:41 AM
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 12,270
From: Mentor, Ohio
You can paint the plastic UIMs, plenty of people have done it.
As for the aluminum one, that is the UIM from the 3800 Series III L26 engine. It is almost a direct swap, but you also need a throttle body adapter for it. The L26 uses a completely different throttle body that is drive-by-wire.
Here's the adapter:
ZZPerformance - Gen 5 to L67/L36 Throttle Body Adapter Plate #ZZ-GEN5L67L36-TBA
Plus you will also need to either drill/tap the UIM and add a fitting to connect a vac line typically on your throttle body and plug the original one or extend the vac lines and lastly solve what you want to do about the PCV vac connection. Here's a couple links about the L26 UIM install on a L36:
BonnevillePRO.com • View topic - L26 aluminum UIM on L36--Done! With results!!
UIM swap L36 plastic to L26 alloy questions
Also, on MCF, Frank a year or two ago completely swapped his L36 for an L26 engine, he kept the L26 UIM and has pics and info there about what he did.
The swap is not hard, but you need to be aware of a couple of things before you jump in.
As for the aluminum one, that is the UIM from the 3800 Series III L26 engine. It is almost a direct swap, but you also need a throttle body adapter for it. The L26 uses a completely different throttle body that is drive-by-wire.
Here's the adapter:
ZZPerformance - Gen 5 to L67/L36 Throttle Body Adapter Plate #ZZ-GEN5L67L36-TBA
Plus you will also need to either drill/tap the UIM and add a fitting to connect a vac line typically on your throttle body and plug the original one or extend the vac lines and lastly solve what you want to do about the PCV vac connection. Here's a couple links about the L26 UIM install on a L36:
BonnevillePRO.com • View topic - L26 aluminum UIM on L36--Done! With results!!
UIM swap L36 plastic to L26 alloy questions
Also, on MCF, Frank a year or two ago completely swapped his L36 for an L26 engine, he kept the L26 UIM and has pics and info there about what he did.
The swap is not hard, but you need to be aware of a couple of things before you jump in.