by the coil packs, yes, if that is the one you are talking about, yes, i have it installed.

i am stumped because now it runs like **** when before it idled perfect on the first 2 starts, after that, it is not wanting to start, and stumbles when it does, idles at 1200+ rpms and smells pig rich.

and the ect is still not registering in the scan tool or the dash and the fuel gauge is still being weird.

 

<stumped

 

me to

 

Kind of out of my butt, but try unplugging maf and try it. If its a vac leak or something to that effect itd prolly help. If not, one thing to check off. Almost sounds like when i had bad inj o-rings

 

Jw what kind of plugs you using

 

orings are new

i actually unplugged the MAP and the ECT and she purrs like a kitten now.

i also did a jump wire on the ECT to see what the dash gauge would do, nadda, nothing, zip, zero. it didnt budge. from what i see, that is a sure sign of a bad ground. or broken wire, so it looks like i get to dig into the harness tomorrow.


so i grabbed the connector from the 08 harness that i had and will be tracing back my 02 harness connector to the fault and then rewiring it.

i am also going to swap back to the 1bar 02 and 08 sensors. not sure why i even bothered with the l67 map in the first place since my pcm cant "see" the boost anyway. but in all the top swap threads, not one single time did anyone say anything about using the stock 1bar map, they only mention you "must switch the connector and run the l67 style map.

well, you DO NOT have to do that at all and you dont have to run anything extra. just pull out the L36/L26 map from the upper intake, there is a damn nipple on that thing, just plug it into to your vac/boost source and you are done. you may want to consider a check valve to keep the map from put under boost. not sure if you could source the vac from the tree on top behind the TB or not. but you certainly do not have to use the other style map or solder in the connector.

i will be unsoldering the other connector tomorrow and also fixing the ECT wire and HOPEFULLY, all should be well after that. i hope.

 

TR6's gapped at .055

 

Ahh my car would barely run and stabled a lot not knowing I needed colder plugs idk how much boost your running but I had to gap mine down to .5then she ran perfect

 

i am running the stock gtp pulley with the bbv solenoid unhooked. IIRC, that should be 7-9 psi, with the solenoid hooked up, i thought i read it was like 4-6 psi


i would rather have the longer spark that comes with .055 rather than .050. as long as you are not blowing out the spark at WOT, you want that gap as big as you can get it wouldnt even consider anything bigger than .060 though. so i figured i would do .055 and see what happens.

 

That with your diff compression ratio? Hopefully you figure it out I hate when a project is finished well you think finished and that happens. Good luck