5th Gen ('95-'99): Strut help
Thread Starter
|
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 10
Strut help
First let me say that I havent posted on here much but this forum has been a constant source of reliable information for me. Ever since I got my 95 Monte I have insisted on doing the repairs myself. I drive this car close to 30 K a year and at 29 mpg it has served me well.
since you have stayed here this long I will explain my problem:
I replaced the passenger side ball joint and in doing so ripped the CV boot, So I thought I'll just replace the whole axle, I got transmission side in fine but I can now see that my strut is not connected by it's nut.. It holds the strut in itself, you need the funky tool to tighten it like a spanner but slides over the strut. The issue is when I use the jack to raise it, the entire strut assembly moves preventing me from getting the axle in to hold it together. Which ever side I put the jack thats the direction it moves. Never even close enough to reattach the lower control arm. I have tried using straps to hold it in place and this has helped some but at some point it binds and lifts the whole car.
I have not found anything like this I'm afraid if I remove the brake caliber it will fall apart completely. I'm using the edge of the caliber as a jacking point. I can not see how to safely put this back together. I thought if I get the strut together it would help a little but even that hasn't happen.
Using a spring compressor would be difficult at best but I have run out of ideas.
since you have stayed here this long I will explain my problem:
I replaced the passenger side ball joint and in doing so ripped the CV boot, So I thought I'll just replace the whole axle, I got transmission side in fine but I can now see that my strut is not connected by it's nut.. It holds the strut in itself, you need the funky tool to tighten it like a spanner but slides over the strut. The issue is when I use the jack to raise it, the entire strut assembly moves preventing me from getting the axle in to hold it together. Which ever side I put the jack thats the direction it moves. Never even close enough to reattach the lower control arm. I have tried using straps to hold it in place and this has helped some but at some point it binds and lifts the whole car.
I have not found anything like this I'm afraid if I remove the brake caliber it will fall apart completely. I'm using the edge of the caliber as a jacking point. I can not see how to safely put this back together. I thought if I get the strut together it would help a little but even that hasn't happen.
Using a spring compressor would be difficult at best but I have run out of ideas.
Thread Starter
|
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 10
First let me say that I havent posted on here much but this forum has been a constant source of reliable information for me. Ever since I got my 95 Monte I have insisted on doing the repairs myself. I drive this car close to 30 K a year and at 29 mpg it has served me well.
since you have stayed here this long I will explain my problem:
I replaced the passenger side ball joint and in doing so ripped the CV boot, So I thought I'll just replace the whole axle, I got transmission side in fine but I can now see that my strut is not connected by it's nut.. It holds the strut in itself, you need the funky tool to tighten it like a spanner but slides over the strut. The issue is when I use the jack to raise it, the entire strut assembly moves preventing me from getting the axle in to hold it together. Which ever side I put the jack thats the direction it moves. Never even close enough to reattach the lower control arm. I have tried using straps to hold it in place and this has helped some but at some point it binds and lifts the whole car.
I have not found anything like this I'm afraid if I remove the brake caliber it will fall apart completely. I'm using the edge of the caliber as a jacking point. I can not see how to safely put this back together. I thought if I get the strut together it would help a little but even that hasn't happen.
Using a spring compressor would be difficult at best but I have run out of ideas.
since you have stayed here this long I will explain my problem:
I replaced the passenger side ball joint and in doing so ripped the CV boot, So I thought I'll just replace the whole axle, I got transmission side in fine but I can now see that my strut is not connected by it's nut.. It holds the strut in itself, you need the funky tool to tighten it like a spanner but slides over the strut. The issue is when I use the jack to raise it, the entire strut assembly moves preventing me from getting the axle in to hold it together. Which ever side I put the jack thats the direction it moves. Never even close enough to reattach the lower control arm. I have tried using straps to hold it in place and this has helped some but at some point it binds and lifts the whole car.
I have not found anything like this I'm afraid if I remove the brake caliber it will fall apart completely. I'm using the edge of the caliber as a jacking point. I can not see how to safely put this back together. I thought if I get the strut together it would help a little but even that hasn't happen.
Using a spring compressor would be difficult at best but I have run out of ideas.
Monte Of The Month -- January 2016
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 2,293
From: Pacific NW
Just want to be clear, it sounds like you took the nut off the top of the strut and released all the spring tension.
If that's the case, you're gonna' need to remove the whole strut assembly and use a spring compressor to pull the coil spring together in order to get the cartridge and strut nut on. It's the only safe way. Unfortunately, it wasn't necessary to remove the top nut at all, just the lower bolts that attach to the steering knuckle.
Also, don't use the caliper as a jacking point. It could damage it. Put the jack under the subframe (engine cradle).
It's not necessary to remove the caliper and rotor, but I find it gives a little more room to work. If you don't want to remove the caliper from the rotor you can use a large zip tie to hold them together. Then, with the rotor removed, hang the caliper from the highest point of the strut spring with another large zip tie, being careful not to pull on the brake hose.
The 3 nuts that hold the strut mount to the fender should be replaced because they are torque to yield type and should only be torqued once. Then when you're all done get a front end alignment.
If that's the case, you're gonna' need to remove the whole strut assembly and use a spring compressor to pull the coil spring together in order to get the cartridge and strut nut on. It's the only safe way. Unfortunately, it wasn't necessary to remove the top nut at all, just the lower bolts that attach to the steering knuckle.
Also, don't use the caliper as a jacking point. It could damage it. Put the jack under the subframe (engine cradle).
It's not necessary to remove the caliper and rotor, but I find it gives a little more room to work. If you don't want to remove the caliper from the rotor you can use a large zip tie to hold them together. Then, with the rotor removed, hang the caliper from the highest point of the strut spring with another large zip tie, being careful not to pull on the brake hose.
The 3 nuts that hold the strut mount to the fender should be replaced because they are torque to yield type and should only be torqued once. Then when you're all done get a front end alignment.
Last edited by plumbob; Jan 30, 2016 at 01:23 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 10
Just want to be clear, it sounds like you took the nut off the top of the strut and released all the spring tension.
If that's the case, you're gonna' need to remove the whole strut assembly and use a spring compressor to pull the coil spring together in order to get the cartridge and strut nut on. It's the only safe way. Unfortunately, it wasn't necessary to remove the top nut at all, just the lower bolts that attach to the steering knuckle.snip...
If that's the case, you're gonna' need to remove the whole strut assembly and use a spring compressor to pull the coil spring together in order to get the cartridge and strut nut on. It's the only safe way. Unfortunately, it wasn't necessary to remove the top nut at all, just the lower bolts that attach to the steering knuckle.snip...
Thread Starter
|
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 10
This is first time using a spring compressor for me, I have big respect for them. I have spent many years working on my Jeeps I just never needed one. Actually tried a little before dinner tonight, I didn't have enough but I still have another 1.5" in the compressor so here's hoping..
Thread Starter
|
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 10
Well I finally got the damn thing back together.. it was more work than I thought it was going to be. Fixed the strut, replaced the ball joint, and replaced the CV all on the same side (passenger side). I gave it a quick drive tonight yes it does need an alignment really the only thing I see or hear is a little "pop" when turning full lock to the left. Not sure what this might be but I have all night to do some reading..
Monte Of The Month -- January 2016
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 2,293
From: Pacific NW
Congratulations on a successful reassembly. 
Just link how easy the other side will be now with experience under your belt
I suggest you check the stabilizer bar bushings/ end links for the "popping" noise.
Just link how easy the other side will be now with experience under your belt
I suggest you check the stabilizer bar bushings/ end links for the "popping" noise.