Okay then, I need some help.

I was just on berettaspeed.com reading through some posts and came across somthing about 3400 PCM. Also, I am not sure if anyone remembers, when I first signed up here I made a post about how my car would have great power somthimes and other times, it just seems to draaaaag along. Obviously nobody could pinpoint my problem here.

As I was reading along I came across this (and this is a copy and paste: we know that when a stock 3800/3400 is hammered from a dig the PCM pulls timing which prevents the tranny indirectly...TQ management at its best!...
What is the deal with this because I have never got this fixed. Is this normal then? Even though I have a tuned PCM? Is there some way I can prevent this. I dont ever "hammer" it from a standpoint and I still have this problem, its starting to happen more and more to the point where there is no point even trying to race or even go fast. I always run 93 octane so the only option with upgrading octane is going up to 110 which LOL I cant afford to be filling up with. So if somone could please help me out with this whole "timing issue" I would be greatly thankful.

 

my car does that sometimes too.

i think it has to do with all the cumputer controlled bs on there. its probly a sensor or something.


are you talking about hesitation??? or just all around sluggish

does your tuned pcm require 93, usually 93's for cars with a high compression ratio.

 

There's no point to run 93 octane in your car unless you have detonation. You won't know if you have detonation without a tuner of some sort. To eliminate TQ management, you need an aftermarket PCM with TQ management removed.

 

Yes, he said it does require 93 for the PCM and it runs like crap if I put anything lower in.

If I do get a PCM tuned to eliminate TQ management, will this have any negetive effects??

 

I forgot to mention, this isnt a "somtimes" deal, its to the point where my car dont wanna speed up. I mean I cant even feel the power band anymore (somtimes I can). Is this still normal?? Like I said, if I get my PCM retuned to get rid of this, will it hurt my car or will it use more gas??

 

Torque management isn't the cause- it doesn't just randomly pick times to pull all kinds of timing- this is not normal. Go test drive any other GM V6- they don't take off fine one time, and drag the next because of "torque management".

Ask the person who tuned the pcm- each place does different things with TM. For what its worth, TM doesn't just effect a single thing- TM covers all sorts of different situations. Some places disable some of it- others leave it stock. Has the problem always occured- or just since the new pcm?

I think you're getting torque management confused with KR. When torque management is kicking in and reducing engine power, running higher octane fuel is not going to make it run more timing- the pcm is internally limiting itself, not from info from the knock sensors.

But as I said, TM is pretty consistent, and isn't particularly invasive. If you notice the car is severly bogging down frequently- you have another problem.

You really don't want to eliminate all of it- it is there to protect the car- mostly the transmission from abuse. This does not really adversely affect the car though- you still should be able to pull up to the line at a drag strip- and run the same 1/4 mile time as any other stockish 3400 again and again.

If the engine doesn't even want to speed up- this is NOT normal. Seriously, go test drive ANY 3400 car and you'll see that no other car does this.

 

Okay, just got back from a ride with a friend. Consistant Consistant Consistant Consistant Consistant EVERYTIME he ran it through a gear. WTF!!!!!!

I have been looking into the whole KR and I just cant, for the life of me, completely understand it>> I mean, this is driving me crazy, is there somthing wrong with my car?? I know you cant tell me for sure but does anyone have any idea what this could be from.

Im gonna give you guys some ideas/(stories??) and maybe this could help out(dont know if its of any signifigance<? at all)
First off, since the day I got my car it has had a starting issuse, when I go to start it(most of teh time) it will turn over for about 3sec before it starts all teh way. I was told this was normal< maybe not huh?
And 2nd, If this is means anything?? I have had 2 previous vehicles, 99 contour 2.5 dohc, and 91 ranger 3.0. Both of these have had this problem since I got them. So, in all, all of my vehicles have had this problem,any ideas, could it be that I notice this possibly normal occurance more than others and there is nothing really wrong?(probably not, but Im hoping so) or could this be caused by driving a certain way?
Im on the gas hinda hard most of the time, so Im thinking I am noticing this because of that.
Another thing Im thinking is, I have always payed VERY close attention to how my cars have ran, so it could be just that ( I mean, I noticed a difference after I change my oil). But then agian, I just went for a ride in another monte and like I said, it was a consistant ride the whole time, but its hard to tell cause I wasnt the one driving.

This whole deal is getting me irritated and rather annoyed, not to mention Im completely left in the dark with what is happening to my poor car.
I do really appreciate the help you all are giving me, and I hope this HALF-BAKED explaintions could give you all a better idea of whats going on with my car

I also forgot to mention, my PCM was tuned by mike at milzy who said they dont do anyhting with the TQ managment. And yes, this has happened since I had the car (before I got my tuned PCM) Now the one thing is, after I got the PCM tuned, this whole "loosing power" thing wasnt as bad, if that makes any sense.

 

Check your fuel pressure.

 

How would I go about doing that?? Would it have to be done by a shop??

 

To check your fuel pressure? Just look at your fuel rails, there is a valve on it (most likely with a cap that you unscrew) remove the cap. You need a fuel pressure tester - you could probably find one for cheap at the parts store (I paid like $30 for mine). Screw the end of the tester onto the valve on the fuel rail and turn the ignition to the "on" position, but don't start it. The gauge/tester will display your fuel pressure - your pressure should be probably ~35-45 psi.