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7th Gen ('06-'07): Need HELP

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  #1  
Old 11-09-2014, 02:38 PM
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I have a 2006 monte carlo ls 3.5l 112000miles .... just bought it about 4 months ago and since ive bought it it has been 1 problem after the other ... 1st of all ill get started with the ticking of the hvac actuator which I have identified which actuator it was and replaced it ... problem solved right ?? well since doing that all was well for about a week , until all of a sudden my whole ac system if being weird as hell . the tempature works fine the fan speed works fine but when I put it on feet it would blow out of the face ... I would put it on face and it would blow out of face and defrost ... put it on defrost it would blow out of the feet and face then one day it started working again normal for about a day , and the next day it was right back to being weird and I actually couldn't get any of the setting to blow defrost .... I might add the the rear defroster has never worked on the car since I bought it I have read several threads but all were pertaining to <05 ... any ideas or clue on where to start ??? on a whole different matter Idk if its related or not but my car dies after sitting for about 6-8hrs ... I put a new battery in it put a new alternator in it which seemed to fix the problem for about a whole week .. until the car started dying again ... its only after it sits for an extended period of time bcuz if its just an hour or 2 or even couple hours has no issue firing right up ... sumtimes when I return to the car after being at work all day I will go outside to it and it has enough power to unlock the car using my keyfob but when I get in and try to start it ... click ... and then the car completely dies (no lights no electrical no nothing) ... other times it will just b completely dead period ... when given a jump it don't take but a half a min of the jumper cables being connected b4 the car will fire right up without a hitch ... although sumtimes when I do get it jumped it will come up with codes such as ,service air bags ... or one day it kept telling me my driver door was ajar and would not turn my dome light off or let me use any of the cars lights such as turning the headlights off or using the blinkers ... but next time I jumped the car it was just fine ... it even told me when day after being jumped that the engine power was diminished and the accelerator would not register as me giving it gas and the engine began to shake violently that it was shaking the whole entire car very noticeably .... again after it sat and I jumped it again the next morning it was completely normal
 

Last edited by STL; 11-09-2014 at 02:42 PM.
  #2  
Old 11-09-2014, 06:13 PM
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For our HVAC problem, it may be your blend door actuator is fubared. There are 4 right,left sides and a blend door, mode actuator. There is also a control module and to reset it you must pull the HVAC fuse for 60 seconds with the key in the off position. Then re apply the fuse.


For your defroster and maybe your other electrical gremlins... on the passenger side front of the interior, remove the kick panel and look for the big white connector. Inspect it real good! inside and out the wires to it and from it and of course all the pins in it. You are looking for burnt/ burning damage.
 

Last edited by Ill_Born_ss; 11-10-2014 at 12:51 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 11-09-2014, 10:59 PM
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thnx for your reply ... the actuator that I replaced is the one I got to from the passenger side I actually had to take my glove box compartment out and looking at the blower motor it was the one on the left towards the center of the car ... which actuator would b the blend door ? I hope its not the one on the right side of the blower motor looks like its gonna b a huge pain to get to ... and as far as that fuse panel is concerned I had looked around there a bit and didn't notice anything that stood out but I will definetaly give this a better looking at 2moro after work ... the hvac fuse your talking about to reset the control module would b n the fuse box under the hood ? again thnx for the response and I will post back in 2moro after I get off work and poke around my car
 
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Old 11-10-2014, 05:49 AM
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  #5  
Old 11-10-2014, 11:54 AM
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Yup, I've had those gremlins too....
I replaced the actuator I was having problem with and it fixed the issue. But I kept two more as spares for next time.
I also had the issue with all the dash lights going nuts and many things not working. For me a new battery fixed the problem. The car does strange things at low voltage.
As for the rear defroster, I just bought silver epoxy to glue the tab back onto the rear window. I'll report how that works once I get r done.


It was in my old car, Cavalier Z24, I had the burnt connector for the rear defroster. Seems like GM likes using a 10 amp connector for the 30 amp defroster circuit. I cut that wire out of the connector, by-passing the weak spot and it held up fine for another few years.


For all these small issues, you just have to get used to fixing things as they pop up. Mine is 8-1/2 years old now, so I can't expect it to be like a new car anymore.....
 
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Old 11-10-2014, 04:18 PM
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ok yep that white clip is definitely burned just like the ones n the pictures (that same prong) ... is this a part I can grab at advanced or sumthing ? and if so what is gonna b the best way to go about installing it ?
 
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Old 11-10-2014, 04:34 PM
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Thanks Member: Ill_Born_ss, for taking your time to help another member with your post & photo's of the problem...
That's a great informative post 4-Sure
 
  #8  
Old 11-10-2014, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by STL
ok yep that white clip is definitely burned just like the ones n the pictures (that same prong) ... is this a part I can grab at advanced or sumthing ? and if so what is gonna b the best way to go about installing it ?

If that is the only connection affected (just the one wire) snip it just before and after the connector, then solder and heat shrink an appropriate gauge wire in between the 2 snipped ends. No fuse or anything else required as the defrost system has a separate fuse already.


Just a note: if you have a 2amp battery charger put it on your battery for at least an overnight stint (10-12 hrs) even if you think it does not need it... the resistance has to be rebuilt.


Space: TY
 
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Old 11-12-2014, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Ill_Born_ss
If that is the only connection affected (just the one wire) snip it just before and after the connector, then solder and heat shrink an appropriate gauge wire in between the 2 snipped ends. No fuse or anything else required as the defrost system has a separate fuse already.


Just a note: if you have a 2amp battery charger put it on your battery for at least an overnight stint (10-12 hrs) even if you think it does not need it... the resistance has to be rebuilt.


Space: TY
I just spliced the wire around the harness and taped it I don't have sodder , I did have to clip off about an inch or so of bad wire on both sides ... rear defroster is working now . awesome , now I will have to wait til I get off work to c if my car is still dying . as for my hvac mode setting problem u said to calibrate the actuator by pulling n hvac fuse but I am having difficulty locating an "hvac" fuse or getting a solid pointer as to what is the hvac control module when that manual talks about disconnecting the positive ... I want to try and calibrate it and if that does not fix the problem I will try replacing that mode actuator ... also on a side note I was doing some further digging into my car and there is the box that's behind my driver side dash that is an aftermarket security system ... it appears to b disconnected at the moment but there is definitely wires heading further into the car from this and sum of them r just ran and cutoff and dangling n stuff ... the box is "autopage r-225a" this is the next thing im gonna deal with if my car continues to die on me but what I was wondering is all the things I c about this model is how its installed on all these 90's cars and was wondering if it was really even compatible or y sum1 would even go thru the hassle of all that when the car has a security system and keyless entry ??

also my gfs dad is gonna lemme borrow his battery charger with a 2,5,10 amp setting so I will put that on tonite when I get home from work on 2amp and let it sit overnite
 
  #10  
Old 11-12-2014, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by STL
I just spliced the wire around the harness and taped it I don't have sodder , I did have to clip off about an inch or so of bad wire on both sides ... rear defroster is working now . awesome ,EXCELLENT! now I will have to wait til I get off work to c if my car is still dying . as for my hvac mode setting problem u said to calibrate the actuator by pulling n hvac fuse but I am having difficulty locating an "hvac" fuse BATT3 fuse under hood, I you have your glove box manual go to page 5-97, 5-98 to see. If you do not have the manual go here: http://www.gm.ca/media/owners/manual...nual_en_CA.pdf or getting a solid pointer as to what is the hvac control module when that manual talks about disconnecting the positive ... This refers to the positive voltage which is the BATT3 fuse I want to try and calibrate it and if that does not fix the problem I will try replacing that mode actuator ...Great idea! also on a side note I was doing some further digging into my car and there is the box that's behind my driver side dash that is an aftermarket security system ... it appears to b disconnected at the moment but there is definitely wires heading further into the car from this and sum of them r just ran and cutoff and dangling n stuff ... the box is "autopage r-225a" this is the next thing im gonna deal with if my car continues to die on me but what I was wondering is all the things I c about this model is how its installed on all these 90's cars and was wondering if it was really even compatible or y sum1 would even go thru the hassle of all that when the car has a security system and keyless entry ?? Could very well be a concern these newer cars do not like any wiring modifications. Every circuit is calibrated and checked by the BCM (body control module)

also my gfs dad is gonna lemme borrow his battery charger with a 2,5,10 amp setting so I will put that on tonite when I get home from work on 2amp and let it sit overnite
Perfect


Good luck



 


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