LED hyper flash problem solvers ... (?)
There seems to be a few ideas or schools of thought when it comes to curing hyper flashing those of us encounter when we install LEDs in both taillight places (high & low in 2003s) & front turn signals ... as well as the same phenomena with 4-Way hazard flasher usage.
It was semi-weird when I was just running LEDs in the taillights & the hyper flashing was in the L & R turning situation(s), but when I replaced the front (amber) bulbs with same-color LEDs, the 4-Way was immediately affected.
Luckily, for me, cruise control & the anit-lock brakes have NOT been affected like some other vehicles have reacted ... like a Buick Century I once had ...
Now I have read here & there about wiring a resistor/capacitor between each LED & to continue to use the factory "stock" flasher/relay. Then I have read that what is the best idea is to swap out the flasher/relay for an electronic solid state flasher, & all will work harmoniously.
I am not against doing either, as I am capable of doing either ... but I will say that the flasher swap, etc. would be a better option for me because I am about to pull the dash to install a new head unit & begin to run some wires, cables for near future audio install ...
Only thing is, if cap/resistor is the answer, where should I start to look for the correct load, resistance, etc.?
I will stop rambling here, & hope more than one of you will chime in with an idea or ten ...
Be well,
Zeke
'11
It was semi-weird when I was just running LEDs in the taillights & the hyper flashing was in the L & R turning situation(s), but when I replaced the front (amber) bulbs with same-color LEDs, the 4-Way was immediately affected.
Luckily, for me, cruise control & the anit-lock brakes have NOT been affected like some other vehicles have reacted ... like a Buick Century I once had ...
Now I have read here & there about wiring a resistor/capacitor between each LED & to continue to use the factory "stock" flasher/relay. Then I have read that what is the best idea is to swap out the flasher/relay for an electronic solid state flasher, & all will work harmoniously.
I am not against doing either, as I am capable of doing either ... but I will say that the flasher swap, etc. would be a better option for me because I am about to pull the dash to install a new head unit & begin to run some wires, cables for near future audio install ...
Only thing is, if cap/resistor is the answer, where should I start to look for the correct load, resistance, etc.?
I will stop rambling here, & hope more than one of you will chime in with an idea or ten ...
Be well,
Zeke
'11
Some member's do not check the forum every day and may not have seen your thread. There are several members very knowledgeable in car electronics and my have an answer for you when they check in. Also a lot of members are here to learn just like you so they may read every thread but have no thing to add to it. as for me I have no idea but your in he right forum
My experience with LED lights in my Monte is limited. I have only installed LED tail lights, and they have a load resistor built into them so my flash rate didn't change and I'm not getting any nag lights. The only other experience I have with LEDs is when I installed them in my Blazer. I did get a 'hyper-flash' situation, but it was resolved by swapping the stock flasher unit for a solid state unit that specified it was compatible with LED lights. Whether this would be the answer for your Monte or not I honestly can't say. Try and be patient, and I'm sure someone will come along with a definitive answer for you. As Lou said, there are quite a few members here that have a lot of knowledge and experience with automotive electronics. Wish I could have been of more help...
You need to put in a resistor.
LEDs use quite a bit less power then regular bulbs..So much less that the computer reads them as not even being there...If you've ever had a bulb go out, you'll notice that they flash alot faster, same thing happening here.
ddmtuning.com has a resistor for em
LEDs use quite a bit less power then regular bulbs..So much less that the computer reads them as not even being there...If you've ever had a bulb go out, you'll notice that they flash alot faster, same thing happening here.
ddmtuning.com has a resistor for em
LEDs are great to save battery power but if one uses a resistor on each turn signal bulb - 6 Ohm 50w as required for turn signals to work properly, then it defeats the purpose of using less electrical energy (battery drain). Is there a manufacturer that makes a 9-pin LED compatible flasher for the 2000 MC SS? The flasher is on/off switched and lighted and mounts behind the red emergency warning triangle on the plastic dash cover. A pair of resistors can be had for about $5 on Ebay.
Last edited by Jermonte; Apr 27, 2013 at 04:58 PM. Reason: wrong resistor wattage
old thread and my apologies for reviving it if that's an issue on here... Anyways, I have recently replaced my turn signal, corner parking, license plate and reverse bulbs with LEDs and have hyperflash. No other issues other than the load resistor I later bought at AutoZone to correct the problem didnt work. Tested all three wires to see which I needed to hook up to and it still didnt solve the problem. Bought my bulbs at superbriteled.com and I highly recommend them on their products. But about to order a solid state unit and pray that is my fix
old thread and my apologies for reviving it if that's an issue on here... Anyways, I have recently replaced my turn signal, corner parking, license plate and reverse bulbs with LEDs and have hyperflash. No other issues other than the load resistor I later bought at AutoZone to correct the problem didnt work. Tested all three wires to see which I needed to hook up to and it still didnt solve the problem. Bought my bulbs at superbriteled.com and I highly recommend them on their products. But about to order a solid state unit and pray that is my fix
idk to b honest.. They only had one type available there... Contacted the CS at superbriteled.com and they said they would point me in the right direction and send me what I need flasher wise.. And seems I am soon replacing the factory head unit with a 7" DVD/GPS unit, I figure it'll be worthwhile to knock out the flasher install then also... Was told my flasher is behind my hazard button.. If that's true then why remove the dash twice??
















