I'm not finding a concise answer, sorry i assume the 3.8 lol.

But everywhere seems to be saying at least 40 if not more.

 

FWIW... I think I ran through two tanks w/Seafoam before my P0171 went away. When it happened again a few weeks later, I ran another tankfull and it went away again. In both cases, no other changes were made, just the engine cleansing.

 

im doing some more testing tonite (around 10 PM - thanks grad school!!) im checking the fuel pressure before the regulator to see if its ok. im pretty sure it sure measure high going by the minimum flow on the specs. ill update.

 

To be safe i would replace the MAF (cleaning is a temp fix)...to eliminate any codes......as far as fuel pressure......i would also replace the fuel pump..(common on a lot of models and yrs).....Just a suggestion.....Its the pumps job to hold constant fuel pressure whether its key on or key off... Hope this helps

 

MAF is easily a $200 part new. Not something you just want to throw at the car to guess a diagnosis. haha

 

yeah thats how i see it. thats why im doing so much testing sop i can find exactly what it is. That's why i like when parts blow up. because the diagnostic is a 2 step process.
1. open hood
2. say "oh **** it blew the frig up"

 

if u want to be sure its the MAF, before paying for a diagnosis..the comp has a base program......unplug the MAF..and see if this resoves ur problem.....(it should run normal) with it unplugged....(thats what its designed to do ).....if its still a problem then thats not the problem.....u may want to also remove the TPS and give it a thourough cleaning for better throttle response !..good luck ..hope it helps

 

Unplugging the MAF won't make the code go away. He isn't experiencing any problems just an annoying CEL haha

But unplugging the MAF is a good diagnostic tool if the car is stumbling or having a hard time starting.

 

I'm using my access to various repair manuals online via AKO to try and find the pressure info. It will likely be in the 40s though. The only fuel injected motors that didn't require more than 35 or so psi was the TBI motors and the equivelants among the other makes.

 

OK guys, so i finally fixed my problem!! First i replaced my fuel pump. Let me tell you that when you do have to drop your fuel tank, you are just screwed! that thing is heavy! even with only 2 gals of gas in it. its heave and awkward because when you remove the straps it hangs on your exhaust pipe and you dont know if will drop in a second of if it will just hang there.

So i removed the Fuel pump, and found a kinked fuel like. Yes, the one that goes to my fuel filter. I replaced the line with a Fuel injection hose but this one was flexible and it would withstand higher psi than the old one. I put everything back together, checked for leaks, started the car and tested fuel pressure.... It was the same as before so i didnt fix anything.

After that i just stood there and stared at the car, cursed it out. Headed to auto zone and bought a new Soresen fuel pressure regulator. installed it and BAAAMMM.. fuel pressure is back in the 50's and with the vacuum line disconnected is in the high 50's.

This also fixed many issued that i had with the car. It had lost a lot of power and from a dead stop it would take off hard. no burn outs (not even a little chirp) it felt like a 1.4 instead of a 3.4L. It fixed all my intermittent power issues, now the car always has all the torque and HP. Also, it fixed my starting issues. in the mornings the car would just crank for countless minutes and then start very weak until warm. Now it starts on the first crank, very strong and ready to go.

So out of the whole deal. The car got the following new parts:
fuel pump
Gas cap
Fuel pressure regulator
new gas line
new vacuum line (since i snapped the old one)
fuel filter

I was gonna make a nice write up but its not fun to fix that stuff on 25 degree weather and snow flakes landing on you. BUT... Im willing to help anyone who is going to do this process. Just PM me.