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6th Gen ('00-'05): Intake manifold exploded!

Old Feb 1, 2017 | 11:41 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by SteveL
There is a video on youtube of a chevy intake exploding after an oil change at a service station.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-OJZbeG0rvY


My mechanic days and hot rodding days were back in the early days of fuel injection. What are the l36 injectors? Is that stock or aftermarket?
My last high performance build was a 9 second 1970 Mustang. Since then my wrenching has been limited to keeping my own rides on the road and making a couple of bucks here and there doing minor repairs for people on the side.
L36 is the GM RPO for the 3.8 Series II naturally aspirated engine. The L67 is the supercharged version. (This will explain the threads you see on here about an L67 swap. Might be something you want to consider if you resuscitate the Monte--it won't be a 9 second car, but it will be a whole lot more fun.)
 
Old Feb 2, 2017 | 07:01 AM
  #12  
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Thanks for sharing that awesome video! I worked in and managed lube shops for years when I was young and never had anything go sour like that. I would have **** a chicken! The customer never believes that you did nothing wrong. I did have a staff member drive a car through a closed bay door once - that was a hard one to explain.
 
Old Feb 4, 2017 | 09:53 PM
  #13  
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Went to the salvage yard today and picked up a different fuel rail. I got one off of a Buick with a 3.8, it looked the same as the Monte fuel rail. Both were 2000 models. I pulled the injectors with the fuel rail, and clipped the plugs off of the back 3 injectors. The fire melted the old injector plugs, and blistered the injectors on the outside, so I am going to assume the injectors are probably bad.
Anyway, when I got home I checked and the injectors I picked up have a larger diameter body and a larger plug in. Does anyone know, do these deliver the same as the ones I have? If I use the 3 front original injectors and re wire the plugs to use the 3 junk yard injectors with the larger outside body, will it run? Or are the 2 injectors set to deliver at a different rate? I only paid $30 for the fuel rail, 6 injectors, 3 injector plugs and the fuel lines. I have 30 days to return them, so if they don't work I can take them back and try to find some that look the same, but it is an hour drive to the junk yard.
 
Old Feb 6, 2017 | 02:33 PM
  #14  
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Nevermind. Went up today and exchanged the injectors for the right ones.
 
Old Feb 6, 2017 | 06:39 PM
  #15  
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Got the intake on, changed injectors, rewired new plugs for the injectors and spliced the fuel lines. Now it wont start. It cranks and sounds like it wants to start, but just wont go. One try I did open the throttle while cranking it and it backfired through the intake.
I am pretty sure it is getting fuel, the splice I put in the return line leaked at first. It was pouring fuel out, so I put a new splice in and fixed that.
 
Old Feb 6, 2017 | 07:09 PM
  #16  
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Have you verified that you have spark?
Heat may have damaged the coils and/or ignition control module.
 
Old Feb 6, 2017 | 07:34 PM
  #17  
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I agree with Plumbob, go back to basics.

I would also be concerned if debris or excess fuel ended up in the cylinders when the explosion happened.
 
Old Feb 6, 2017 | 10:03 PM
  #18  
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I haven't checked anything yet, by the time I got the fuel lines together it was 5:30. I had to be at work at 6, so I closed the hood and left it for tomorrow.
I am fairly sure I have fuel, I had a leak in the return line and it was dribbling fuel, but I don't know what pressure I have.
The fire was isolated to the back of the engine just beside the EGR. The only heat damage I found was on the 3 rear injectors, the nylon fuel lines and the fuel rail. I unwrapped all of the wiring and do not see any damage to the wires themselves. The car did not turn after the big boom, so nothing should have been sucked into the engine. I looked into each intake port and did not see any debris, fire extinbuisher junk or anything else down the ports near the valves. Of course this does not mean there is nothing there!
Tomorrow I am going to start at the injectors. I want to make sure they are getting the pulse through the wiring that they are supposed to have. Then I will check and make sure it is getting spark. I assume it is because it chugs and acts like it wants to start. If it were an old style engine the way it is acting I would start tweeking the timing.
Tomorrow down to the basics and go from there. It cant be anything too serious.
 
Old Feb 7, 2017 | 03:07 PM
  #19  
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Well, it is running. It has a miss and is giving a po303 code.
I swapped the 3 junk yard injectors with 3 other junk yard injectors and cranked on it until it started and ran. At first it was running on about 3 cylinders and had a rattle in the engine. Before I could shut it down the rattle stopped and the engine smoothed out some. Still has a misfire, but I am thinking that is something minor.
 
Old Feb 7, 2017 | 05:00 PM
  #20  
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Edit. Pulled the spark plug out of number 3. I am guessing a chunk of the intake manifold went into the cylinder, the ground strap on the spark plug was smashed against the electrode. I replaced the spark plug and it starts good, runs smooth, and has no trouble codes showing.
The only odd thing, I had it sitting and idling while I was cleaning up my tools, about a half hour. Suddenly the engine revved for a second, then went back to idling. At first I thought my daughter had come out and was messing with me and popped the throttle, but nobody was home. Must have just been one of those odd things that happens?
I haven't taken it out on the road for a test drive yet, after the fire we dropped the insurance. I will have to get it insured before I take it on the road. I also want to change the oil before I run it any more, who knows what went into the oil with the fire.
Thanks everyone for the information. Now all I have left to do with the car is figure out what is going on with the windshield wipers. Turn them on they might come on, they might not. They might run a half a cycle then quit, they might run a few minutes then quit. Then when they are shut off they sometimes shut off, sometime keep running. I picked up a wiper motor and multi switch at the salvage yard. When it warms up a little I am going to change both.
 

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