high rev on start
#1
high rev on start
Hi guys,
Nothing too crazy and was just wondering what you guys think this may be.
I start the car lately and the car revs steady and high at 2500RPM or 2800RPMS.. if I don't shut the car off, it won't decelerate the gas. So sometimes I have to turn the car off and on a few times before the car will decelerate the rev to 1000RPM so I can shift. The car is a 97 Monte Z34.
Oh! And I just replaced the IAC valve, TPS sensor, cleaned the MAF sensor, switched the gasket for it, replaced the fuel pressure regulator, replaced all snapped plastic hoses with rubber hoses (mostly fuel hoses), air filter... and I think that's it.
Lastly, yes, there is an engine light being thrown out there but I haven't had a minute to check it out what it is I work 7 days a week (typing this question at work :P ) and the check engine light only gets thrown out there sometimes, not always..
Thanks for checking!
-J.Ballz
Nothing too crazy and was just wondering what you guys think this may be.
I start the car lately and the car revs steady and high at 2500RPM or 2800RPMS.. if I don't shut the car off, it won't decelerate the gas. So sometimes I have to turn the car off and on a few times before the car will decelerate the rev to 1000RPM so I can shift. The car is a 97 Monte Z34.
Oh! And I just replaced the IAC valve, TPS sensor, cleaned the MAF sensor, switched the gasket for it, replaced the fuel pressure regulator, replaced all snapped plastic hoses with rubber hoses (mostly fuel hoses), air filter... and I think that's it.
Lastly, yes, there is an engine light being thrown out there but I haven't had a minute to check it out what it is I work 7 days a week (typing this question at work :P ) and the check engine light only gets thrown out there sometimes, not always..
Thanks for checking!
-J.Ballz
#5
Thanks for the replies guys.
As far as the gunk on the throttle body, it's clean as a whistle. I used carb cleaner to a rag to get it all off and it's shining like mr. clean
As far as the TPS goes, it's not adjustable and only goes on one way due to the way it sits into the peg and the screw sized holes.
This engine is the 3.4L DOHC engine. My biggest nightmare for a rebuild ever! hehehe.
As far as the gunk on the throttle body, it's clean as a whistle. I used carb cleaner to a rag to get it all off and it's shining like mr. clean
As far as the TPS goes, it's not adjustable and only goes on one way due to the way it sits into the peg and the screw sized holes.
This engine is the 3.4L DOHC engine. My biggest nightmare for a rebuild ever! hehehe.
#6
update
Hi guys,
SO I got the odbII read on it yesterday and it pulled up the Throttle Position Sensor. Now check this out.
1) Originally I replaced the throttle position sensor when it first came up about a month ago. The problem never went away after replacing the sensor twice at autozone. Nothing changed.
2) I bought a replacement TPS wire because I thought I saw a split in the wire by the attachment so I cut the wire and rethreaded it. I matched up all the colors.. yellow, green, and black to what was already there.
3) I took the car to an actual Chevy Dealership and they said that I had wired it wrong. I can't see how this is possible since I just matched the colors but whatever. So they rewired it for me (for a charge of course)
Now I'm having this problem.
Has anyone had to rewire the the TPS adapter before? If so, did you just match wires or did you combine any like the Chevy Dealer did?
thanks.
SO I got the odbII read on it yesterday and it pulled up the Throttle Position Sensor. Now check this out.
1) Originally I replaced the throttle position sensor when it first came up about a month ago. The problem never went away after replacing the sensor twice at autozone. Nothing changed.
2) I bought a replacement TPS wire because I thought I saw a split in the wire by the attachment so I cut the wire and rethreaded it. I matched up all the colors.. yellow, green, and black to what was already there.
3) I took the car to an actual Chevy Dealership and they said that I had wired it wrong. I can't see how this is possible since I just matched the colors but whatever. So they rewired it for me (for a charge of course)
Now I'm having this problem.
Has anyone had to rewire the the TPS adapter before? If so, did you just match wires or did you combine any like the Chevy Dealer did?
thanks.
#7
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 12,270
From: Mentor, Ohio
Some after market wire/plug repairs may not match the proper colors and pin-outs. Only way to know for sure is know what the pin outs should be.....
But here's my question....
The dealer said you wired it wrong, that's why you are having the problem. They re-wire it, no change in the problem..... Uhm, I don't know about you, but I don't feel that requires full payment, your problem is not fixed (not sure it requires ANY payment IMO).
NOW, the check engine light pops up once in a while.... GET THE CODE!!! Even if the light is off, a good scan tool can tell you recent codes that have activated ("history codes" is the menu option on the Snap-On scan tool I use). The codes usually tell you what to check, what to do.
Without the code, my guess is a vacuum leak. Mist the engine with starting fluid while it's idling. If you have a vac leak, it will suck in the starting fluid mist and the engine idle will have a small change in sound at that time, giving you a location to inspect. My next suspect would be a problem in the IAC wiring (the IAC is open too far and after enough stops/starts the wiring does what it needs to in order to dial the IAC back).
But get the code (even if the light is not on, the code can still be obtained).
But here's my question....
The dealer said you wired it wrong, that's why you are having the problem. They re-wire it, no change in the problem..... Uhm, I don't know about you, but I don't feel that requires full payment, your problem is not fixed (not sure it requires ANY payment IMO).
NOW, the check engine light pops up once in a while.... GET THE CODE!!! Even if the light is off, a good scan tool can tell you recent codes that have activated ("history codes" is the menu option on the Snap-On scan tool I use). The codes usually tell you what to check, what to do.
Without the code, my guess is a vacuum leak. Mist the engine with starting fluid while it's idling. If you have a vac leak, it will suck in the starting fluid mist and the engine idle will have a small change in sound at that time, giving you a location to inspect. My next suspect would be a problem in the IAC wiring (the IAC is open too far and after enough stops/starts the wiring does what it needs to in order to dial the IAC back).
But get the code (even if the light is not on, the code can still be obtained).
#10
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 12,270
From: Mentor, Ohio
If I remember, I will try and check that code in the shop book tonight. I can't remember if that was one I looked at on a friend's car (if so, it's a bit ambigious and mis-leading as the book states to check other stuff, not the TPS). But again, I will try and check it out.