Thanks!!! Hopefully if I get lucky, I'll manage to snag a few bucks to grab it.

 

The fuse box comes apart, the cover comes off and the back/base (4 plastic clips on the side) leaving you with the center section. It has 4 large connectors at the back and at the front there are 4 heads of bolts. To remove the fuse box main connecters (the big ones, they are installed and removed by the bolts inside the box) when loosening the bolts off the bolt raises/ will raise, don't allow this to happen you must keep pressure down to cause the thread to push the connector out of its socket at the back. The same for reinstalling them you put the connector into the guides for the case and then pull the connector into the box with the bolt (not pushing in by hand.


This is a lot easier than it sounds... still a lot of work for a simple battery change. Be sure that the battery connectors are all the way down on the terminals prior to tightening/ re-securing to the terminals and do not over tighten.

 

Well guys, I have Good News, and bad news.

The Bad News is, that the reason for why the Key won't Recline back to the OFF Position is because of a bad Ignition Switch or Ignition something-else-that-I-forgot.

The Good News is that there's a new battery in there...

Just my luck.

Any tips with going forward with this?

BUMP! I'd like all any any suggestions!!.

 

-You are using a black plastic coated key correct.
-Have you tried to lock the car with the key fob (press the lock twice) wait 20 min then unlock with the key fob.
- The car is in park.
- When you apply the brake pedal do you hear a click near the gear selector lever.

 

I have NOT tried that yet, since the car is still in the shop. I will try it tomorrow if I can get a ride up there, then I'll ultimately have to gather the warranty papers to pay the Shop.

I can tell you that the car was completely dead when it was in my possession, so I couldn't test any of those things....

I know that there was a Recall on Bad Ignition Switches, but the GM Dealer near me refuses to replace it. For free at least.

 

I will add that the car currently has a brand new battery in it.

All lights light up. Everything Powered works. Just that the car will not crank when attempting to start, nor will the Ignition recline to OFF when tried to.

Mechanic says it's either the Ignition Switch or Tumbler. Looking at about $3-$400.

 

I have seen this too many times, when you tried to start the car way back the battery died (not enough power to start) this left the key in the forward position. This is a function of the factory security system also not allowing it to crank/ start. Hook up your battery (POS first then NEG) close all doors/ hood/ trunk. Press twice on the LOCK button on the key fob. Lights should flash and the horn will chirp. If you are looking thru the window you should see the security symbol light up on the dash. Wait 20 minutes without disturbing anything. Now unlock the door with the key fob, get in and apply the brakes (listen for the click near the shift lever as you apply the pedal) and try to turn the car OFF first.

 

Thanks for that suggestion!!
I will call the shop and have them try that.

After doing some extensive research, it seems like a wire in the steering column may have popped. Or something is broken with the Shifter.

Although, even if something with the shifter broke, I would still be able to start the car.

I don't know. It's getting wayyy frustrating now!.

 

Been a really busy day but I did find this:
I believe it's the ignition switch.
There is a recall for it too. "#14123: Service Parts Safety - Ignition Switch Replacement" (Aug 06, 2014)
Recalls are free/ no charge to you!


Some times tapping gently on the key then wiggling the steering wheel may get it free.

 

No worries, you've actually been a HUGE Help!!!

Actually, that was initially my plan to go through, BUT, they won't replace my Switch. They actually said that I had to get a new set of keys made or something, but I HIGHLY doubt that'll fix my problem( although when I have the car towed to the GM dealer, I'll have them make me new keys as well.)

I wish they would fix the Switch for free though, because that's what a local shop said was the problem (although I have doubts) but the way the recall was described, they said that the Switches were Faulty. I just have no clue why they won't replace them.