6th Gen ('00-'05): Help: 2000 MC SS 3.8
#1
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Been having problems lately with driving my monte, it happens when you apply foot to gas pedal to gain speed and the moment you try to accelerate the car acts as if it's shuddering or doesn't want to gain speed, I have to very lightly push the gas to even drive to get the car going , hard to explain exactly what is wrong but it basically happens when you try to accelerate and it starts to act as it's putting and shuddering.
#6
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,217
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Before doing ANYTHING further, get the car scanned for codes. I believe the blinking is due to a misfire that is so bad the PCM believes you may damage the vehicle. Anytime you have a car problem, don't ignore the car computer, it can sometimes save you time and get answers.
I had one a couple years ago on my daily driver, blinking engine light, symptom similar to yours. Scanned the car and got a code that not just said I had a mis-fire, but ALSO on which cylinder. Knowing it was one cylinder can usually rule out stuff like a fuel filter and instead look at things like coil, plug, wire or injector. ON that car, I pulled the plug for the problem cylinder. The gap on the plug was way out of spec. I cleaned the plug up, re-gapped it, put it back, car was fine. It bothered me that if one plug had a gap problem, the others may too. So I pulled ALL the plugs about a month later and checked the gaps. They were all fine. Because plugs are cheap, I also changed them (figure no sense putting old 50k plugs back in even though they should last 100k).
So, check the codes and go from there. Otherwise, you could waste time and money.
I had one a couple years ago on my daily driver, blinking engine light, symptom similar to yours. Scanned the car and got a code that not just said I had a mis-fire, but ALSO on which cylinder. Knowing it was one cylinder can usually rule out stuff like a fuel filter and instead look at things like coil, plug, wire or injector. ON that car, I pulled the plug for the problem cylinder. The gap on the plug was way out of spec. I cleaned the plug up, re-gapped it, put it back, car was fine. It bothered me that if one plug had a gap problem, the others may too. So I pulled ALL the plugs about a month later and checked the gaps. They were all fine. Because plugs are cheap, I also changed them (figure no sense putting old 50k plugs back in even though they should last 100k).
So, check the codes and go from there. Otherwise, you could waste time and money.
#8
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Before doing ANYTHING further, get the car scanned for codes. I believe the blinking is due to a misfire that is so bad the PCM believes you may damage the vehicle. Anytime you have a car problem, don't ignore the car computer, it can sometimes save you time and get answers.
I had one a couple years ago on my daily driver, blinking engine light, symptom similar to yours. Scanned the car and got a code that not just said I had a mis-fire, but ALSO on which cylinder. Knowing it was one cylinder can usually rule out stuff like a fuel filter and instead look at things like coil, plug, wire or injector. ON that car, I pulled the plug for the problem cylinder. The gap on the plug was way out of spec. I cleaned the plug up, re-gapped it, put it back, car was fine. It bothered me that if one plug had a gap problem, the others may too. So I pulled ALL the plugs about a month later and checked the gaps. They were all fine. Because plugs are cheap, I also changed them (figure no sense putting old 50k plugs back in even though they should last 100k).
So, check the codes and go from there. Otherwise, you could waste time and money.
I had one a couple years ago on my daily driver, blinking engine light, symptom similar to yours. Scanned the car and got a code that not just said I had a mis-fire, but ALSO on which cylinder. Knowing it was one cylinder can usually rule out stuff like a fuel filter and instead look at things like coil, plug, wire or injector. ON that car, I pulled the plug for the problem cylinder. The gap on the plug was way out of spec. I cleaned the plug up, re-gapped it, put it back, car was fine. It bothered me that if one plug had a gap problem, the others may too. So I pulled ALL the plugs about a month later and checked the gaps. They were all fine. Because plugs are cheap, I also changed them (figure no sense putting old 50k plugs back in even though they should last 100k).
So, check the codes and go from there. Otherwise, you could waste time and money.
#10
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Last time I check it was about 15 codes I was told going on with the car I don't know exactly what codes but some misfire codes, a transmission code, and something else maybe evap but I will get it scanned again and come back with better details as to what can I do from there.
One other thing to keep in mind is more diagnostic work will likely still be needed once we get the code list. OBD's purpose isn't to tell you what to replace directly, it just identifies systems with a fault and what that fault is. From there, theres a logic tree to diagnose the component with the error. That diagnostic tree can require a combination of electrical, computer (OBD sensor live scanning), and mechanical testing. Just dont want you to think that we're going to be a magic bullet that can tell you to replace XYZ with that code list. We'll just be able to help suggest what to test next / what the most common components to start that diagnosis are.