Well I am not sure really. There is some things I haven't had before. I would say maybe the next thing to try is one of the bugs that do happen from time to time. That is the BCM. One I would look over the grounds. It isn't going to be hard just have to get in strange position to get under the dash to find things without taking everything apart. Check the ground from the BCM to the BOdy and make sure there is not issue there. Then while there. Unplug the BCM and plug it back in a few time. So one on the left of the BCM you unplug and plug it back in 3 or 4 times. Then center one same then the right one do the unplug and plug and then see if that helps with the problem.

This you will want to do with the battery disconnected

If none of this helps then I would say sounds like it could be the Hazard switch. Not the multi switch on the steering column but the one that also turns on the hazards it is for both blinkers and hazards. Maybe before you do that. Also remove that switch wiring and plug in a couple of times to make sure it isn't just not making a good connection.

 

So check the bcm y the brake pedal An plug it in an disconnected acouple times an do the same to the Hazard switch An if that don't work just change the hazard switch out An that will fix the turning signals

 

OK so I am all one for making repairs on a car by first starting at all powers, grounds and making sure all connections are good. Then once that has been done if the problem isn't fixed then that says there has to be something else wrong. The next step I would take and offer this as an idea not saying that is the magic fix as I am not there to make sure the Test were run to 110% to the fact of how I would do things to make sure the issue is there.

Another issue that I didn't bring up but may not be the problem as I haven't seen it ever be the issue. That is the IPC. Even though it is Logic it cost more then the Hazard switch and it is hard to find the issue in the Cluster without having a lot of EE background.

So I think that is really another spot to look but again shy of just double checking all grounds that belong on the car and again around the IPC and BCM and hazard switch after all that it would be a parts fest. I don't ever want to say that buying a part will make it work. I was just saying that for my car if I did all that you have said you have done to try and track down the problem the next step for me would be the hazard switch.

I don't like going down Rabbit Holes but it does happen at times. The Hazard switch is by far the next cheapest way for the repair. Can be found for around 15 to 30 with car parts dot com being the cheapest I have found. The other bet and I didn't say to ever take something but if you have a U-pull it or a self serve yard around you might even be able to get it cheaper then that. However I found with my local yard it is best to get it from Retailer because they charge by having more pins then 5 and they cost more then they should. That is because they really mean for a different more spendy part but hard to know every part of all cars...

Now another thing but wouldn't make sense really to me. Is the Multi Switch in the Column. However there is no logic or I could guess maybe could be that. It is a switch that moves ground from one spot to another. It is work or won't work there is really nothing that the multi switch going bad would cause hyper flash and that is over 80 at most places so if it isn't broke for sure I wouldn't replace it....

last thing. ONly other thing I would think it could be if it isn't a Hazard switch seeing you said all is working in the ground department would be if the Bulbs that are being used are LED I did ask in my first post if that could be the issue wasn't replied to be the issue so I moved on...

However if you installed LED's in place of the normal bulbs that would be the cause of the hyper flash. Reason is because the Bulbs are lower current then the normal bulbs and the LOGIC of the car sees this as being an out bulb and makes a faster flash to let the driver know. Unless someone using a Canbus LED on a Canbus car there can be issues with the computers knowing why there is Current change.

In case your not into Electronics or an EE, Current is how many Amps the circuit is passing though the connection. On logic systems it knows that the system is going to run say 12amps and in the logic they have a comparator that is always looking to see the same voltage and current is within spec. If it isn't it makes adjustments to let the owner know something is wrong. Also it has the ability to know its volt range in the specs as well. So that is why it can work from 9 to 15v or it may have a voltage limiter built into the circuit as part of the logic. Sadly I can't find a Schematic of the hazard switch to see what it is made from It just shows it is a Logic circuit.

James

 

Okay An yeah I don't know if they are led bulbs it was a old mans car so I have no idea a lot of stuff looks to be stock still