I was also gonna say look for an o2 emulator.

 

yeah it runs real good now. No bogging but still no 02 in back. Front not registering.
codes are now this (Started with 12 codes when got here but here they are
p1404- egr closed position
po134- heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1 bank 1 no activity. It is plugged in now though. still throwing code
Those 2 wires really confusing me..

 

IMO this still needs the be the #1 priority before you start driving it. If the pcm isn't getting a signal, it can't adjust the fueling so even if it seems to drive ok, the engine is still at risk of damage.

What values is the scan tool reading for the front O2 when running? Is it getting a steady locked in value or no signal voltage at all?

You need to break out the multimeter and back probe all of the pins on the o2 connector with the car running to see whats actually going on at the sensor. Id bet at least one of the wires has an issue. If all of the wires are getting proper signal but you're not getting a valid output, I'd go grab another o2 sensor to see if you just got a bad one out of the box.



I wouldnt think about quantity of codes right now. You're (hopefully) not running it enough for the pcm to go through all of the system checks.

Id spend all of my effort at this point on the front o2 sensor code and getting it functional again.

 

all i really do is drive to work and back and to bank for work. All total prob 5-10 miles a day and nothing really over 40 unless speeding. should i take it up to 55 for a few so it can do all the checks and see where im really at? At this point its running good. Day and night difference from where i started. But i can grab new O2 sensor tommorrow or if they let me exchange mine i can change in parking lot real quick and reset everything and try it that way. i can also with the multimeter and see what that is but i done it before and think it was right but i could be wrong. Done so much and cant remember all of it. i believe its 0.5 ref right? ill look it up. also any word on those wires ? ive googled them, picture googled them and nothing.

 

You keep mentioning your driving and I will be blunt, but I feel you are missing the real point. I mean, if having reliable transportation is not an issue and you can deal this eventually making a bigger problem or taking the car out of service, then no problem, just ignore it. But the issues defined and proper controlling of the fueling system is not better or worse because your driving stays under 40mph. For example, the car could feel like it is running fine, but because the O2 sensor is not functioning and reporting air-to-fuel to the PCM, you might be running really lean (which for performance feels awesome). But running lean can put you at risk of chipping a piston, doesn't matter that you drive it under 40mph (at most it might change when it happens).

Flip side, it's running really rich, then your MPG is going to be horrible and if the car still had a cat, it would be at risk of damaging that.

The PCM controls fueling and relies on these sensor reads to do the job properly.

 

ok i c and i dont want to ignore so i will test O2 like advised and i wonder if the one i took off that looked kinda new i could put it back on and see? just curious on that one but yeah im off the next 2 days and thats my mission. I apologize for being i guess kinda not thinking Big Picture here cause it does need to be right and thats what i set out to do just feel kinda stuck now. Its not often you get info like this so i really do apologize

 

As I noted before, I wouldnt drive it at all - like it would literally sit parked in the garage until I figured it out. It doesn't really matter what the other checks say if the entire feedback loop of the EFI system is essentially down because the PCM has no idea what the AFR is.

The bad thing is that doesn't really mean anything since the feedback / adjustment system is 100% down. You may just be getting lucky that the conditions this time happen to make the base map closer to stoich AFR. But it could still very well be off in either direction and you'd never know it since nothing is keeping tabs on the AFR.

I wouldnt just swap sensors yet. As I mentioned before - back probe the harness with the car running and verify that every single wire has the correct result (ie grounds are grounded, ign is true 12/14 v, signal is a real signal output). If everything but signal output is good, thats the only time Id try replacing the sensor.

Generally narrow band sensors run about. 0.1v to 1v and oscillate back and forth about once a second in a normally operating system. It is possible to be pegged to one side if things are out of whack, but if that's the case - you'll need to figure out why that data isn't getting back to the pcm.

Take your multimeter signal voltage and compare to the scan tool front O2 voltage. If they're not the same, you need to figure out why. Back probe the front o2 wire at the pcm to see if it matches the scan tool or the O2 and go from there.

I cant be of help there as I don't have that engine and have zero wiring diagrams for it. But I wouldnt waste a minute on it until you figure out whats going on with the front O2.

I'll second that! Driving this without any functional O2 is playing with fire and can cause damage up to and including catastrophic engine failure.

 

I did a little research on your cut wires (I looked for any data on engine connectors). According to what I could find, if that is a pink wire and a dark green with a white strip wire, that might be the Emission Canister Purge Valve Solenoid. What I found claims the pink wire is Fuse Output-IGN 1 and the darkgreen/white wire is Canister Purge Solenoid Output. The Purge Valve Solenoid sits on the back of the engine, almost directly behind the throttle body. It has one connector for it and two hoses that connect with it. So if that is what those wires are for, fixing those might be all it takes to solve the P0443 code. Not as mission critical as solving the O2 sensor issue, but still needs resolved.

Since we know that the car has a few cut wires, I would not be surprised if the O2 sensor has one or more cut wires. Checking that the wires are working is important. Checking for power and ground should be easy. The other two wires for low and high I believe go back to the PCM. I would disconnect the battery, then pull the connector(s) for the PCM and see if you have continuity from the O2 connector to the PCM. BTW - Something I learned from experience, when probing the connector, use a paper clip inserted into it and probe off the paper clip instead of touching the multi-meter probe to the connector. Two reasons why. A female pin is designed for a specific size prong and the one on a multi-meter if forced could damage that female pin. Second, I had a weird 02 sensor problem with my car. Every test was 100% spot on. What I learned with the paper clip was that one of the female pins was collapsed. That means the circuit made it's way to the connector, but when the connects are plugged in together, the male prong did not make contact, thus the circuit was not completed. Had it not been for use of a paper clip, I never would have learned that problem and been going crazy to resolve it.

 

You ever tried back probe tips? Ive got a set with different angles that are as thin as a hypodermic needle. They're thin enough to slide between the wire insulation and weather pack bushing without damaging either. I absolutely love them for troubleshooting like this - especially for testing that has to be done with the connector plugged in.

 

i replaced egr purge valve and hoses. Then looked at O2 . Plugged it in and seemed loose to me. No seal on it. Got new one and is snug and started to car and you could smell i dunno like the car had been sitting awhile and was burning some stuff off. Small amout of smoke at first. Contributed that to maybe some leftover seafoam maybe None the less it cleared up after a few revs and runs a little better so i unplug sensor to test ref and it only has power to one of the wires is that normal?