6th Gen ('00-'05): Front motor torque mounts..
#1
Front motor torque mounts.. -fixed
I didn't get too much of a good look, but I noticed my driver side torque mount jiggles...the bushing insert looks like it has been squished!
I was wiping down the engine bay and noticed a little play on the metal bracket.
I've never done any repairs such as this, and I want to know if there is anything special I need to do when I replace the bushing insert..
Do I need to support the engine for a torque mount?
Anyone know of any polyurethane inserts I can buy?
Any precautions I need to take to do the job?
Got any ft/lbs torque specs?
I will post pics later on (in daylight hours since its 12am) & maybe a video if i can so you can see what I'm dealing with..
I was wiping down the engine bay and noticed a little play on the metal bracket.
I've never done any repairs such as this, and I want to know if there is anything special I need to do when I replace the bushing insert..
Do I need to support the engine for a torque mount?
Anyone know of any polyurethane inserts I can buy?
Any precautions I need to take to do the job?
Got any ft/lbs torque specs?
I will post pics later on (in daylight hours since its 12am) & maybe a video if i can so you can see what I'm dealing with..
Last edited by Red Nightmare; 01-04-2013 at 08:13 PM.
#3
You can remove both dog bones and the engine sits in the cradle fine. I often remove both when working on the car.
To tighten, I just go hand tight.
You can always try to just flip the bushing for now?
To tighten, I just go hand tight.
You can always try to just flip the bushing for now?
#4
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,156
The factory rubber bushings are ment to have a little play (by having gaps in the front and back). This allows the engine to rock and the vibrations not be felt in the cab of the car. It does not sound like anything is wrong with your current bushings.
As Chibi mentioned, if you want a CHEAP way to stiffen that up, you can flip the bushings (so the gaps are top and bottom).
I got a "donor" set of mounts and removed the busings (the dog bones, easy, the rad mount was a PAIN). I destroyed the rad mount bushings. After that, I sand blasted the donor dog bones and rad mounts, sent them for powder coating and slammed in a set of WbodyStore.com poly bushings in both the dog bones and the rad mounts.
Interested fact, it took less then 5 minutes per mount to put the rad bushings in. I was really surprised but before tackling it, I contacted WBS about it. They said remove the metal tube on the bushing (does not exist in the stock rubber bushings), lube them with WD, dish soap, anything, then use a rubber mallet and pound them in. I think two hits with the mallet, they went in and NO damage! Quick and amazingly easy! I honestly don't know how they can be removed easily (but I've heard some people allegedly have done so).
Depends on what you want out of it. I wanted a little better "launch" by reducing engine rock. Side effect, it does have some vibration. I only really notice the vibration when I am at a stop. Depending on what mood I'm in, depends if I am OK with the vibration or not (and if I'm not OK with the vibration, pop the car in neutral and it's greatly reduced to almost non-existant).
I've actually wondered if a flipped rubber bushing would be a better answer.
Here's a link to a pic of my car as I was swapping the mounts (one is stock, the other has the bright red WBS bushings).
http://crzyz28.sytes.net/mycars/2004...y_bushings.jpg
As Chibi mentioned, if you want a CHEAP way to stiffen that up, you can flip the bushings (so the gaps are top and bottom).
I got a "donor" set of mounts and removed the busings (the dog bones, easy, the rad mount was a PAIN). I destroyed the rad mount bushings. After that, I sand blasted the donor dog bones and rad mounts, sent them for powder coating and slammed in a set of WbodyStore.com poly bushings in both the dog bones and the rad mounts.
Interested fact, it took less then 5 minutes per mount to put the rad bushings in. I was really surprised but before tackling it, I contacted WBS about it. They said remove the metal tube on the bushing (does not exist in the stock rubber bushings), lube them with WD, dish soap, anything, then use a rubber mallet and pound them in. I think two hits with the mallet, they went in and NO damage! Quick and amazingly easy! I honestly don't know how they can be removed easily (but I've heard some people allegedly have done so).
Depends on what you want out of it. I wanted a little better "launch" by reducing engine rock. Side effect, it does have some vibration. I only really notice the vibration when I am at a stop. Depending on what mood I'm in, depends if I am OK with the vibration or not (and if I'm not OK with the vibration, pop the car in neutral and it's greatly reduced to almost non-existant).
I've actually wondered if a flipped rubber bushing would be a better answer.
Here's a link to a pic of my car as I was swapping the mounts (one is stock, the other has the bright red WBS bushings).
http://crzyz28.sytes.net/mycars/2004...y_bushings.jpg
#7
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,156
WOW! I don't think I've EVER seen dog bone bushings like that. I agree, you're right, replacement time for them.
For grins, I would unbolt the dog bones, see if the bushing is cut in any way (easiest way to get it out is cut off the tall lip on one side, then it pops right out). I say that wondering if the last owner had poly bushings and removed them (either did not like them or a "demod" when selling the car.
If you replace only the dog bone bushings with poly, I bet you won't notice any vibrations I mentioned (since the rad mounts still have "wiggle" room).
For grins, I would unbolt the dog bones, see if the bushing is cut in any way (easiest way to get it out is cut off the tall lip on one side, then it pops right out). I say that wondering if the last owner had poly bushings and removed them (either did not like them or a "demod" when selling the car.
If you replace only the dog bone bushings with poly, I bet you won't notice any vibrations I mentioned (since the rad mounts still have "wiggle" room).
#8
The original owner might of, but his listing he still has of it on cardomain did not say. If they were changed, you would see a bit of socket scratching on the nuts & there are none.
edit -nevermind, looking back at the video it does look like there are some markings..Its a shame cause the material for the bushing isn't cracked or worn...just smushed.
edit -nevermind, looking back at the video it does look like there are some markings..Its a shame cause the material for the bushing isn't cracked or worn...just smushed.
Last edited by Red Nightmare; 12-13-2012 at 09:06 AM.
#9
Finally got my bushings...Radiator mounts look alright.
First bought the inserts from work, only got 1 & it was all chewed up and broken....5 minutes ago Fedex just dropped off the set I bought from rock auto :3
wooo
First bought the inserts from work, only got 1 & it was all chewed up and broken....5 minutes ago Fedex just dropped off the set I bought from rock auto :3
wooo
#10
Excellent, like the way you take charge and get things done.... Sounds like you did the proper repair. Now you can have peace of mind.. Ever get your engine stalling or sputtering issue resolved??