1. If my shop refuses to follow the fill process when they replace the radiator again, is it safe to drive it 9 miles home on the hwy like that?
If not I'll do it on their lot

2. Is it safe to bleed it once it's already been filled, and if so, what specific tool do I need to open that bleeder valve? I thankfully have the owner's manual to help me, but it doesn't say what tool or if I'll need one.

I"m hoping that begging or asking to watch so I can learn how should I ever need to (they've let me be in there before) will work, but it may not.
I"ve been unable to convince them that trapped air doesn't just bubble to the surface, though I've tried as politely and meekly as possible.

 

Most shops don't sit down to read a book on your car before they fix it, I can promise you that. Unless it's a new model or their actually having a problem odds are they'll go by jobs done in the past or experience.So for you to expect them to follow a fill process is useless. After you change a radiator the process goes something in this order. 1 full the radiator and start the car . 2 wait until the thermostat opens and cycles the coolant thru the system and refill the radiator. 3 wait again for the thermostat to open to purge the air again and fill and top off system and put the radiator cap on and fill the overflow bottle. Now the car is safe to drive As for bleeding the system . Fortunately the car has a bleeder screw , most cars don't. The most highly. produced engine in the world ( Chevy V8 over 100 million ). never came with one. As the engine runs coolant forces the air pockets out of the engine when the thermostat opens. If you keep getting air pockets in your cooling system you have other problems. If you feel the need to bleed the system get a 8mm socket and loosen the screw on the top of the thermostat housing until coolant comes out. This process should be done when running at normal operating temperature and you will not need to remove the radiator cap during this process. It should take about 5 seconds to do .

 

Perfect. I've most defintiely had other problems due to air pockets in the system since the first R & R. This time I'm going to bleed it myself if the same things happen. It's worth buying an 8mm socket. Wish a flathead worked, lol.

 

Some have a flathead slot, I think it varies by year. Its right on top of the thermostat housing, so it would only take a second to look to see.

 

This is so cool, thank you so much! I'd felt removing the engine cover shield was a little daunting so I double checked. It's not so bad after all, and there is drawing for each bleeder valve in the 3600, one takes a socket and the other a flathead...there's an actual photo of mine, and it takes a flathead! Thank you SOOOO much! I was about ready to try and buy a full socket set in order to be prepared..I'd love one but they are expensive...all $ going to heat plus the payments on the bearing and assembly..now I don't have to and I'd never have taken the time to check this out if you hadn't responded to my joke about wishing it took a flathead! Thank you SOOOO much!