Car Wont Start Help Please
#1
05-11-2014, 04:29 PM
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Brockville Ontario
Posts: 3,052
Car Wont Start Help Please
Hey everyone, had a problem with my car today, that I have never experienced before. I was out cruising and came home to pick up the wife and then go grab some groceries for supper, and went to start the car and nothing. The lights came on, the dash and everything powered up fine but it won't crank over. I tried the remote start thinking it may just be my ignition switch and that would solve the problem but that didn't help either.
From what I have been reading here in the forum, if it is the ignition switch you generally get some kind of a security warning or light, but there was nothing and has been nothing. The car has been running like new again with no issues and I have plans to put new front brakes on it next weekend and that is it, other than some mods I have been looking at
So please any and all help would be appreciated, cause if I can fix it myself I am going to as I would rather not pay a shop to do something that I can do
again thanks for any and all assistance.
Ken
From what I have been reading here in the forum, if it is the ignition switch you generally get some kind of a security warning or light, but there was nothing and has been nothing. The car has been running like new again with no issues and I have plans to put new front brakes on it next weekend and that is it, other than some mods I have been looking at
So please any and all help would be appreciated, cause if I can fix it myself I am going to as I would rather not pay a shop to do something that I can do
again thanks for any and all assistance.
Ken
#2
05-11-2014, 05:15 PM
Hi Ken, sorry you are having problems. I have had this happen to me. In the Monte it was my security lock out. The first time it happened I got no security light. Now I get that light every time it happens.
In my 98 Altima and my Daughters 93 Neon it was the Ignition switch. But in my 87 IRoc 350 it was the ground strap that went from the alternator to the firewall.
Any of these could be the issue but I would start with the Ignition switch. Depending on what is bad in it, If it is your culprit, it may not activate your pass-lock system!
In my 98 Altima and my Daughters 93 Neon it was the Ignition switch. But in my 87 IRoc 350 it was the ground strap that went from the alternator to the firewall.
Any of these could be the issue but I would start with the Ignition switch. Depending on what is bad in it, If it is your culprit, it may not activate your pass-lock system!
#5
05-11-2014, 06:39 PM
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,156
If the remote start did not start the car, I am leaning away from the ignition switch. The reason for that is the aftermarket remote start kits have their own PassLock bypass (not relying on the PassLock in the lock cylinder) and may share wires with the switch but don't require the ignition switch. You could actually unplug the ignition switch and a remote start should still start the car. I went through this with a '00 Grand Am (uses the same ignition switch as our Montes and it had a remote start, I drove it home on the remote start to find out the connector had fallen out of the ignition switch, fixed with a big ol' zip tie).
If the remote start DOES start the car, then as JC mentioned, stands a good chance at it being part of the PassLock anti-theft system.
When you attempt to start it, does the starter sound like it's trying to crank at all? If it's not cranking or the starter is only clicking, not saying it is the problem but sometimes when a battery finally dies, it just dies, no warning and that's what you get. That's just one for instance. If it is the battery, you might be able to jump start it.
Or could be a bad starter.
If the starter is completely engaging and cranking, then can you determine if you are getting fuel and spark? When you put the key in the on position, do you hear the fuel pump hum? Next, if you press the schrader valve on the fuel rail, you should get some fuel squirting out. If yes to both, it decreases odds of a fuel pump.
Next, do you have spark.... Easiest/safest way to check is if you have an inline test light to put inline with a plug wire. If someone tries to start it, the light should flash as power goes through the wire, if not, move the test light to other coils. See if it's a coil or if all coils are dead. If the light is not flashing on 1 or all coils, I'd first take the ignition control module (sits under the coils) out and have it tested.
I hope some of that helps.
If the remote start DOES start the car, then as JC mentioned, stands a good chance at it being part of the PassLock anti-theft system.
When you attempt to start it, does the starter sound like it's trying to crank at all? If it's not cranking or the starter is only clicking, not saying it is the problem but sometimes when a battery finally dies, it just dies, no warning and that's what you get. That's just one for instance. If it is the battery, you might be able to jump start it.
Or could be a bad starter.
If the starter is completely engaging and cranking, then can you determine if you are getting fuel and spark? When you put the key in the on position, do you hear the fuel pump hum? Next, if you press the schrader valve on the fuel rail, you should get some fuel squirting out. If yes to both, it decreases odds of a fuel pump.
Next, do you have spark.... Easiest/safest way to check is if you have an inline test light to put inline with a plug wire. If someone tries to start it, the light should flash as power goes through the wire, if not, move the test light to other coils. See if it's a coil or if all coils are dead. If the light is not flashing on 1 or all coils, I'd first take the ignition control module (sits under the coils) out and have it tested.
I hope some of that helps.
Last edited by The_Maniac; 05-11-2014 at 06:41 PM.
#8
05-11-2014, 09:44 PM
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Brockville Ontario
Posts: 3,052
If the remote start did not start the car, I am leaning away from the ignition switch. The reason for that is the aftermarket remote start kits have their own PassLock bypass (not relying on the PassLock in the lock cylinder) and may share wires with the switch but don't require the ignition switch. You could actually unplug the ignition switch and a remote start should still start the car. I went through this with a '00 Grand Am (uses the same ignition switch as our Montes and it had a remote start, I drove it home on the remote start to find out the connector had fallen out of the ignition switch, fixed with a big ol' zip tie).
If the remote start DOES start the car, then as JC mentioned, stands a good chance at it being part of the PassLock anti-theft system.
When you attempt to start it, does the starter sound like it's trying to crank at all? If it's not cranking or the starter is only clicking, not saying it is the problem but sometimes when a battery finally dies, it just dies, no warning and that's what you get. That's just one for instance. If it is the battery, you might be able to jump start it.
Or could be a bad starter.
If the starter is completely engaging and cranking, then can you determine if you are getting fuel and spark? When you put the key in the on position, do you hear the fuel pump hum? Next, if you press the schrader valve on the fuel rail, you should get some fuel squirting out. If yes to both, it decreases odds of a fuel pump.
Next, do you have spark.... Easiest/safest way to check is if you have an inline test light to put inline with a plug wire. If someone tries to start it, the light should flash as power goes through the wire, if not, move the test light to other coils. See if it's a coil or if all coils are dead. If the light is not flashing on 1 or all coils, I'd first take the ignition control module (sits under the coils) out and have it tested.
I hope some of that helps.
If the remote start DOES start the car, then as JC mentioned, stands a good chance at it being part of the PassLock anti-theft system.
When you attempt to start it, does the starter sound like it's trying to crank at all? If it's not cranking or the starter is only clicking, not saying it is the problem but sometimes when a battery finally dies, it just dies, no warning and that's what you get. That's just one for instance. If it is the battery, you might be able to jump start it.
Or could be a bad starter.
If the starter is completely engaging and cranking, then can you determine if you are getting fuel and spark? When you put the key in the on position, do you hear the fuel pump hum? Next, if you press the schrader valve on the fuel rail, you should get some fuel squirting out. If yes to both, it decreases odds of a fuel pump.
Next, do you have spark.... Easiest/safest way to check is if you have an inline test light to put inline with a plug wire. If someone tries to start it, the light should flash as power goes through the wire, if not, move the test light to other coils. See if it's a coil or if all coils are dead. If the light is not flashing on 1 or all coils, I'd first take the ignition control module (sits under the coils) out and have it tested.
I hope some of that helps.
The battery was replaced in January with a brand new one, and I am hoping it should be fine, but I will do a test in the morning to make sure it has a full load in it.
There is no clicking sound at all, nothing, the starter is not engaging at all, as that would be my first guess, but like I said it isn't even trying to engage.
When I turn the ignition all the dash lights come on, the buzzer makes it's noise and the instrument cluster moves in to position like it should but then nothing else happens.
The fact that everything lights up like it should made me think something with the ignition switch initially which is why I immediately attempted to start with the remote starter, but when it did the same thing as turning the key I got very puzzled. I checked the battery connections and they seem to be fine, but I will also pull them off and make sure there is no crud build up making a poor connection. If I can fit under the car I am also going to check and see if the wire going to the starter is in good shape, it was just given a complete once over last month and the only thing found wrong was a need for replacing the front brake pads, which is again puzzling to me, as any noticeable faulty wires should have stood out upon inspection, but then again I am only taking the word of the mechanic that gave me the information it is not first hand
#10
05-11-2014, 10:25 PM
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,156
I think checking connections on the battery and the starter are great ideas. You can also tap on the starter with a small hammer (nothing crazy just a few light hits) to see if it jars anything and allows the starter to operate (if so, then you know it's a starter).
The starter needs a lot of power from the battery to do it's thing. I've had battery drain issues where the car has lights, go to start it and absolutely nothing (usually at that point, when you attempt to start it, lights and everything go out because all the juice is attempting to go to the starter and it's just not enough).
Just because it's a newer battery does not guarantee it's still working. Plus it does not guarantee that the alternator is charging it.
If you can borrow a battery from another car, you can use that to try and prove if it's a dead battery.
If it's a push come to shove, you can remove the battery, starter and alternator and have a parts store bench test all three.
I hate electrical problems!!! Best of luck and keep us updated!
The starter needs a lot of power from the battery to do it's thing. I've had battery drain issues where the car has lights, go to start it and absolutely nothing (usually at that point, when you attempt to start it, lights and everything go out because all the juice is attempting to go to the starter and it's just not enough).
Just because it's a newer battery does not guarantee it's still working. Plus it does not guarantee that the alternator is charging it.
If you can borrow a battery from another car, you can use that to try and prove if it's a dead battery.
If it's a push come to shove, you can remove the battery, starter and alternator and have a parts store bench test all three.
I hate electrical problems!!! Best of luck and keep us updated!