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bin file for top swap?

Old Jan 10, 2014 | 08:06 PM
  #1  
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Default bin file for top swap?

anyone have their bin file from a top swap they could send me?

was thinking of going with the l67 swap, but i think i have talked myself into s Series 3 bottom end, and the l67 top swap.


so i wanted to look at the bin files and maybe start adjusting my files for the initial install.
 
Old Jan 10, 2014 | 08:24 PM
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If ur gonna do a topswap, use a series 2 shortblock. Series 3 na shortblocks have weak rods
 
Old Jan 10, 2014 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by l67ss
If ur gonna do a topswap, use a series 2 shortblock. Series 3 na shortblocks have weak rods
can you explain? everything i have read has indicated that the s3 is a better engine....


borrowed from another site...

"Series III
The Series III motors include many changes. The upper intake manifold is now aluminum on the naturally aspirated models. Intake ports are mildy improved, 1.83" intake valves (instead of 1.80" as on Series II) and 1.52" exhaust valves were introduced in 2003 engines, just before switching to Series III.......Stronger powdered metal sinter forged connecting rods are used in 2004+ supercharged, and 2005+ naturally aspirated engines, instead of the cast iron style from Series II engines. ........
Also note that Series III engines are the base for any 3800 produced for the 2004 year and up. This means the same block, heads, & connecting rods apply to any remaining Series II engines made after 2004 also. The difference is that Series III engines received the new superchargers (Generation 5 - Eaton m90 - if equipped), intake manifolds, fuel systems, and electronics.
[edit]L26 Naturally Aspirated
The L26 is the Series III version of the 3800. It is still a 3.8 L (231 cu in) design. Compression remains at 9.4:1 as with previous L36's, but the aluminum upper intake (2004+) and stronger connecting rods (2005+) are the primary physical changes. The powdered metal connecting rods were meant to be introduced in 2004 along with the L32's, but the GM plant in Bay City, Michigan that supplies the Flint, Michigan plant could not achieve the desired production dates in time for that engine year.
This engine was used in the following vehicles:
2004–2008 Pontiac Grand Prix
2005–2009 Buick LaCrosse
2006–2008 Buick Lucerne
[edit]L32 Supercharged
The L32 is a supercharged Series III. Introduced in 2004, the main differences between the L67 and the L32 is the L32's electronic throttle control, slightly improved cylinder head design, and updated Eaton supercharger, the Generation 5 M90. Power output is up to 260 hp (194 kW) in the Grand Prix GTP.
As with the L67, premium fuel (91 octane or higher) is required. The use of regular or lower-octane fuel can and does cause detonation that eventually leads to engine damage and failure.
Applications:
2004–2005 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP
2006–2007 Pontiac Grand Prix GT"
 
Old Jan 10, 2014 | 09:04 PM
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L32s did indeed get better rods than l67s. They may have said the series 3 na got the better rods but in reality, no. Dont believe me? Ask around at grandprixforums. And if you topswap it with s2 stuff, the only dif would b rods. If you could get your hands on a set of l32 heads on the other hand......
 
Old Jan 10, 2014 | 09:10 PM
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so let me get this correct...

you are saying that the rods did not change on the NA L26, so that means that the the rods are the same as the S2 then? but you are saying the L26 is the ****tier engine? how did they get worse????

and according to what i have read, in 2004, the S3 L26 did NOT get the powder metal rods, but they were in the 2005+ models.


thanks for any input you have, and i am not trying to be a dick, but everything i am reading and finding, does not match with what you are saying.
 
Old Jan 11, 2014 | 12:38 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by l67ss
If ur gonna do a topswap, use a series 2 shortblock. Series 3 na shortblocks have weak rods
I'm not an expert on the L26, but from what I understand, the '04 L26, avoid it, no better then the :36. But the '05+ L26 I thought had forged connecting rods.

But in theory, if the L26 bottom end is no better then an L36, I'd still consider it.... It's going to be newer and you might have an easier time of finding one with low miles....

Just food for thought.
 
Old Jan 11, 2014 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by The_Maniac
I'm not an expert on the L26, but from what I understand, the '04 L26, avoid it, no better then the :36. But the '05+ L26 I thought had forged connecting rods..
this is exactly what i have been reading and finding as well.



Originally Posted by The_Maniac
But in theory, if the L26 bottom end is no better then an L36, I'd still consider it.... It's going to be newer and you might have an easier time of finding one with low miles....

Just food for thought.

i agree 150%. even if the L26 is the same as the L36, for the price and miles, how could i go wrong. but since the 2005's are better internally, i am just going to buy the one that i was looking at and do the top swap.

i cant find any L32 parts for cheap to do the gen V top end, so i will be sticking with the L67 top end for now.



i will be doing some port matching on the heads/intake/blower/tb, speed daddy headers, exhaust, and a walbro 255 or the zzp350 right off the bat. but after that, i am unsure what i may want to do.

i would like to be in the 13's by spring, and then maybe high 12's come fall. after that, i have no plans on making it faster.
 
Old Jan 11, 2014 | 11:44 AM
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You will have to share pics of your project build when you start having parts roll in! And if you get the L26 you're talking about, if you rip it down enough to validate the connecting arms, please share your findings. I know a few people on other that did engine builds with an L26 bottom end (even if they were still using the L36 UIM) just for the information shared about the bottom end being stronger.

Also, I believe I have read that a stock L36 has a stamped steel impeller on the water pump. A mod some people have done was to use a Series I 3800 water pump and pulley as the impeller was cast aluminum and better fin design for improved circulation (needed the Series I pulley as the pulley is the same diameter, but the center hub that bolts to the pump is different). I've since read that supposed the pump on the L26 is the best of both worlds! L36 pulley set up, but a Series I impeller. Again, just info I've read (mostly from Bonneville guys that have ripped a few of these apart, so none of this is first hand info).
 
Old Jan 11, 2014 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by The_Maniac
You will have to share pics of your project build when you start having parts roll in! And if you get the L26 you're talking about, if you rip it down enough to validate the connecting arms, please share your findings. I know a few people on other that did engine builds with an L26 bottom end (even if they were still using the L36 UIM) just for the information shared about the bottom end being stronger.
i will be more than happy to share some pictures.

however, i was able to view another thread that has already confirmed the changes in 2005 for the L26.

this thread verifies that the L26 has the forged/powdered metal rods...

L36/ L26 Differences - V6 F-Body.com

Originally Posted by The_Maniac
Also, I believe I have read that a stock L36 has a stamped steel impeller on the water pump. A mod some people have done was to use a Series I 3800 water pump and pulley as the impeller was cast aluminum and better fin design for improved circulation (needed the Series I pulley as the pulley is the same diameter, but the center hub that bolts to the pump is different). I've since read that supposed the pump on the L26 is the best of both worlds! L36 pulley set up, but a Series I impeller. Again, just info I've read (mostly from Bonneville guys that have ripped a few of these apart, so none of this is first hand info).
thats a good tip. i will be sure to see what i can find
 
Old Jan 11, 2014 | 05:13 PM
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Well, I suppose that link solves it. The L26 look like forged rods and look like they MIGHT weigh a hair less. I'd stick with the '05+ L26.

FYI - If you don't end up top-swapped and decide to keep the L26 UIM, there are 2 different styles I found!! Even though I don't think you are going to use an L36 or L26 UIM, I'll share the info here to go with the connecting rod info.


The main differences found thus far is the throttle body outlet from the snout into the main chamber and supports for the runners going up to the peaks.

Each UIM has a sticker with is a number and then a number on the casting for the snout.

Good
Sticker: 12598924
Casting: 12573322 3

Bad
Sticker: 12598925
Casting: 12573323 7

Note: Good is the one that has a slightly larger output to the main chamber and bad has more restriction.

The attached pics are from both L26 UIMs that I had in my garage at one point. On the outside, there is a subtle difference I cannot begin to explain.
 
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