So come to find out, it is something with the amp/ or amp wires. Awhile ago with i first thought it was the factory amp, i went and bought another factory amp and the prob was still going on. So before i wanted to go and get an new battery, i went on the tried to troubleshoot and disconnected things separate again. So disconnected the newer factory amp i got. Had it disconnected for like 3 days now and NO dead battery. Is it possible that the amp wire/ connector could be bad and is making the amps bad? But anyway i am in the process of installing aftermarket amp, but is having some problems with that now.

 

Not likely...

The radio is responsible for telling the amp to shut down via the Class-2 databus...

Most likely either the radio is the issue (not telling the amp to power down), or possibly the BCM isn't telling the radio to shut down

It's also possible that the replacement amp you bought has the same issue as your amp and they both are not going to sleep correctly (and the radio and BCM are doing the right thing)

BBEngineer

 

Oh ok, cause i did a test with a test light with the radio connected and the amp unplugged, and used the test light on the amp connector, and all of the ports on the amp connector was still hot. Also i noticed that my amp gets REALLY hot even when car is off. i didnt know if the ports are suppose to stay hot seeing the the radio is still semi on because of the alarm and memory.

 

The amp always has power going to it... it shuts off internally when the radio tells it to

BBEngineer

 

So how could i tell if it is not telling it to shut off?

Sorry for so many questions just been trying to figure this problem out for ever

 

Either swap in a known good amp and see how it behaves or you are going need to use a Tech-II (the diag tool dealerships use) and see what it can tell you...

BBEngineer

 

Thanks foe the help, this thing is such a headache. But guess i am going to get another amp.

 

BBEngineer,
I tried your troubleshooting technique (thanks for the information btw), I blew the fuse on one of my multimeters that maxes out at 250 Milliamps. I tried another that has the same max reading, it won't blow but the draw is off the guage, so greater than 250 Milliamps.

I pulled/replaced all of the fuses one by one as described, and they only thing that made the meter move even the slightest bit was the was the WindShield wiper fuse (which only made the meter move the first time, but never again after that) and it only moved very slightly. The other fuse that made the meter move just slightly was the Cluster/BCM fuse.

Neither of these fuses lowered the Milliamp reading down to anywhere near what is referenced as normal 15-30MA.

Do you have any thoughts on what else could be causing such a large draw?

Thanks very much.

 

I have yet to find out the problem with the draw. I have changed the battery, the alt, the bcm, the factory amp, the battery ports and just today put a new factory harness in there. Now the battery is draining within a couple of hours. Dont even take over night. Still have to pull the radio/amp and clstr/bcm fuses in order for the car to not die. I took the car to chevy and they changed to battery ports and the car was fine for a couple of days, but went right back to dying again. I am just ready to give this car up.

 

I am having a similar problem with my Monte. It will keep a charge for a couple days, but if it sits for 4 or 5 days it dies.