ABS light on
I had the front right sensor wiring get ripped out for some reason. I found that after getting the code for the right front sensor. I had both front hubs replaced with a new sensors and after the mechanic cleared the codes on the car it is gave him the code for that same sensor right back again. The mechanic says the pump may have been shorted after the wires got yanked out. Does this sound possible??? I'm getting to the point of pulling the bulbs out of the cluster.
Can you better describe what you mean by the wiring being "ripped out"? Was the harness damaged or just disconnected? Did the mechanic also put in a new harness or just reconnect the old one? These cars are famous for having a faulty harness (especially the right front) cause abs issues. Shops often will check the code which will indicate that the in hub sensor is not responding and replace the hub instead of checking that. If the harness is faulty then of course there will be no signal from the sensor.
About a foot away from the actual plug the wiring was severed leaving bare wires then the wiring was ripped completely off the sensor so the plug was lost. He got a section of the harness with the plug, spliced it in where it was severed and connected the other end to the new sensor. I must have hit something just right to catch the wiring harness and ripped it right off. When I went over to look at it when it was up on the hoist and wheel removed all you seen was a wire hanging down with bare wire at the end.
When I replaced my right front harness I spiced it in up by the bottom front of the motor where there is a bundle of wires coming together. If he only replaced the last foot or so where it was severed there could easily still be damage farther up the harness, especially since yours took a pretty good hit. I would check the harness with an ohmmeter from the wheel connection up to the farthest part you can reach.
Also, I have heard but can't confirm, that if you solder the new harness in and use too much it can alter the resistance enough to throw a code since this system is apparently pretty sensitive.
I twisted my harness connections together, then electrical taped them and one wrap of cloth tape for insurance. Then applied a coat of marine silicone over that. The harness came with heat shrink connectors but I wanted to go a little overboard considering the location. Been about 18 months without a problem.
Also, I have heard but can't confirm, that if you solder the new harness in and use too much it can alter the resistance enough to throw a code since this system is apparently pretty sensitive.
I twisted my harness connections together, then electrical taped them and one wrap of cloth tape for insurance. Then applied a coat of marine silicone over that. The harness came with heat shrink connectors but I wanted to go a little overboard considering the location. Been about 18 months without a problem.
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 12,605
From: Mentor, Ohio
Get the volt meter out. If you have access to the shop book, it has a lot of good info to test the wiring with the volt meter to ensure connections are good. Perhaps the exposed wires were corroding and when you mechanic spliced them it severed else where in the wire. The other issue, did you mechanic soldier the connections or crimp them. If they were crimped, it's very possible it fell out. Soldiering and use of heat shrink tubing is the BEST way to splice a wire exposed to the elements.
Also, the ABS sensor wires should be twisted (if you pull the wire loom off of them, you will see from the factory they are twisted around eachother). I don't know the explicit reason other then it has to do with shielding from interference. If your mechanic did not preserve these twists, that could cause an interuption.
Again, doing some continuity tests with a volt meter will tell you a lot. There is also an OHM test to validate if the speed sensor is good or not.
Also, the ABS sensor wires should be twisted (if you pull the wire loom off of them, you will see from the factory they are twisted around eachother). I don't know the explicit reason other then it has to do with shielding from interference. If your mechanic did not preserve these twists, that could cause an interuption.
Again, doing some continuity tests with a volt meter will tell you a lot. There is also an OHM test to validate if the speed sensor is good or not.
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