Came on last night & just checked it today.

says on the code reader:
Solenoid valve, relay coil or contact circuit open.

Any ideas?
Just changed the hub assembly in the front..I did notice the conduit that covers the ABS wire was burned/melted, but the wires are ok.

 

I will have to research this code on our mitchell in the morning. if memory serves me correctly, it has to do with the abs controller, meaning, that if you dont see any type of wiring damage, the problem is inside, hence you could possibly need a new abs brain. im not trying to scare you, but if it is what im thinking of, it could be into the thousands to replace it. *note- abs light means your abs is disabled at this time. this doesnt mean you dont have brakes. traction control and antilock features are affected. i work on some cars which have these lights on all the time because the owners wont or cant afford to repair them. antilock system is important under wet conditions, and under emergency braking, your tires will lock up, and you will not have the same control under abs braking. you should bring to a good shop for a proper diagnosis of your abs system.

 

Ps, there seems to be some info on this code through some vette forums, guessing they use the same controller for montes and vettes.

 

I still need to re-look at the wiring harness to the hub. It may be a electrical issue. Chances are, when I got the control arms & tie rod ends changed(they had to cut the tie rod end out to change) they might of burnt the wire with the torch gun(they went nuts on it!)

you never know...

 

If you don't have a wiring issue, the ABS module just crapped itself. Service information says that it is an internal failure code.

 

I hate using heat on things, as there are so many things in those areas that get damaged if you are not careful.
I did my tie rods last spring (originally I was just going to swap out the worn and cracked boots). The factor nut is not a castle nut, so it has nylon inside to keep it on. I had to "he-man" that thing off with ratchet and vise grips. Then getting the outer tie rod off was a pain as well.

That experience taught me a couple new tricks to do if I ran across that issue again. My '02 Grand Am had a tie rod going as bad. I used a small propane torch, melted the nylon from that nut, and it came off EASY. Then, heated the outer tie rod a little with the same torch and it came free easy. Best of all, I did not have to use a heat level that could be damaging to near by rubbers and plastics unless I did go nuts.

Best of luck solving the ABS issue. I know my father assisted me in solving if I had a bad ABS speed sensor or a broken wire on my Grand Am. We did continuity tests and the shop book for the Grand Am gave a way to ohm out the speed sensor from the ABS computer.

 

bump.

Code has come back up. ABS light came on this morning.
I have been hearing a really strange faint squeal coming from one of the right hubs. Might take it to my mechanic to check them out..

edit: Might buy a ABS relay and see if that changes anything.

 

Check and clean the ABS unit ground. If that doesn't resolve the problem then chances are the relay in the ebcm isn't working correctly. If it's not working then the solenoid and pump can't power up. Unfortunately you'll need to replace the ABS unit (the failed part is integral). Hopefully it's just a bad ground...

 

anyone have a diagram for the relays? the manual does not say it and my fuse panel cover has super strength 3m tape I can't take off to view what is what.

 

The fuse protecting the abs unit is located in the driver side fuse panel, but if it was bad the car would not start because it also protects the crank relay amount other things. It is labeled abs/pcm. The relay that activates the solenoid and pump is an internal part of the ecbm which is part of the abs unit. If the relay is bad you have to replace the entire abs unit.