'99 3800 Z34 Stalling
#21
Ok found it.
It was opposite where I first looked. Lol
Pb blaster soaking.
I went for a socket. The guy talked me into this open wrench/socket combo. Pivots on a curved handle.. It's a good idea for the right application. Unfortunately mines not the right application.
S its back to the store for the socket kit.
I did start the car a couple times to heat up the exhaust. Liberal dose of Blaser in between, and rapped it with a hammer a few times.
I have a propane torch if necessary to heat things up
First I just need to get that socket set.
It was opposite where I first looked. Lol
Pb blaster soaking.
I went for a socket. The guy talked me into this open wrench/socket combo. Pivots on a curved handle.. It's a good idea for the right application. Unfortunately mines not the right application.
S its back to the store for the socket kit.
I did start the car a couple times to heat up the exhaust. Liberal dose of Blaser in between, and rapped it with a hammer a few times.
I have a propane torch if necessary to heat things up
First I just need to get that socket set.
#22
The bad O2 sensor will tell it to add more fuel thus causeing gas fouled plugs... IMO.... I have replaced both of my O2's on my 99 and its running like the day it was made still and that was 2 yrs ago with just around 80,000 miles. Not all Monte's our year are treated the same.... But I also agree... That you should change the plugs and wires on the other cylinders as well...
Just to keep everything on an even keel.
Just to keep everything on an even keel.
#23
I got it changed. You're right it runs like the day it was new now. More responsive.
Obd2 still shows fuel trim at 99% on bank 2.
I'm going to have to research that to figure out the next step.
I haven't gotten it to stall yet. I'm giving it back to my son tonight. He has the ap on his phone for his brothers scanner, which he is leaving in the car.
In the event it messes up againa at least he can get real-time data.
The most frustrating thing about it is that it doesn't throw any codes unless its acting up. (Evap cose notwithstanding)
That reminds me, we added some HEET to the gas, and now when it's running water drips out of the drain port on the front of both mufflers - a good indication in my mind that he had water in the fuel since the evap wasn't working properly.
Man, I just don't want to have to drop that tank. Lol
Obd2 still shows fuel trim at 99% on bank 2.
I'm going to have to research that to figure out the next step.
I haven't gotten it to stall yet. I'm giving it back to my son tonight. He has the ap on his phone for his brothers scanner, which he is leaving in the car.
In the event it messes up againa at least he can get real-time data.
The most frustrating thing about it is that it doesn't throw any codes unless its acting up. (Evap cose notwithstanding)
That reminds me, we added some HEET to the gas, and now when it's running water drips out of the drain port on the front of both mufflers - a good indication in my mind that he had water in the fuel since the evap wasn't working properly.
Man, I just don't want to have to drop that tank. Lol
#24
down stream O2 is after the cat under the car. if you drilled a hole thru the cup holder you prob would hit it!
A faulty down stream O2 will not cause any starting or drivability issues. Also the symptoms of a clogged cat are normally hesitation or complete inability to accelerate past 4,000 rpm and don't normally cause starting issues. evap leaks can cause some issues but its not likely it will cause the car to die while driving nor keep it from starting. also at start-up the maf isn't used until the car warms up and enters closed loop so maf failure will not cause the issue either.
from what i read it sounds like you only replaced half the wires. I suggest installing the rest of the wires and all new plugs if you did not replace the rear. this car uses a waist spark system where the spark goes into one plug and out another. so if one is bad you will actually have 2 bad cylinders. It doesn't sound like you have any misfire codes, so i would venture to say your coils are good.
did you ever get the fuel pressure tested? you should have around 45-50 psi after key on once the system is primed.
when you have the issues with it not starting does the RPM/tach jump wildly? if so that is a big hint that the crank sensor is bad.
I hope this helps and didnt overwhelm you. any questions just let me know
A faulty down stream O2 will not cause any starting or drivability issues. Also the symptoms of a clogged cat are normally hesitation or complete inability to accelerate past 4,000 rpm and don't normally cause starting issues. evap leaks can cause some issues but its not likely it will cause the car to die while driving nor keep it from starting. also at start-up the maf isn't used until the car warms up and enters closed loop so maf failure will not cause the issue either.
from what i read it sounds like you only replaced half the wires. I suggest installing the rest of the wires and all new plugs if you did not replace the rear. this car uses a waist spark system where the spark goes into one plug and out another. so if one is bad you will actually have 2 bad cylinders. It doesn't sound like you have any misfire codes, so i would venture to say your coils are good.
did you ever get the fuel pressure tested? you should have around 45-50 psi after key on once the system is primed.
when you have the issues with it not starting does the RPM/tach jump wildly? if so that is a big hint that the crank sensor is bad.
I hope this helps and didnt overwhelm you. any questions just let me know
On the plug wires, they are individually wired. I do need to change the other 3 though- just because I have them. If for no other reason.
Sounds like the MAF is not causing it.
Also sounds like the cat is ok as well.
I'll test the fuel pressure next time I can get the car from him.
Any ideas why fuel trim is 99% on only one bank? The other one is ok.
#26
there technically is only one bank in there engines as there is just one primary O2 sensor (Bank1 Sensor 1 and Bank 1 Sensor 2 which is the past cat sensor) High positive fuel trims normally point to vacuum leaks. check vac lines and the upper intake manifold for cracks.
#27
Yeah I've been studying fuel trim and how it works. Your right. There is only the two sensors and there post manifold. I guess the format of obdii requires there to be a bank assignment even though they aren't mounted in the manifolds.
I surmised that the normal trim on "bank" 1 is the short term fuel trim while the reading for "bank" 2 is in reality LTFT (long term fuel trim).
Bad injectors or the vac leak you mentioned could be the cause. I'll have a look at it this weekend.
Thanks
I surmised that the normal trim on "bank" 1 is the short term fuel trim while the reading for "bank" 2 is in reality LTFT (long term fuel trim).
Bad injectors or the vac leak you mentioned could be the cause. I'll have a look at it this weekend.
Thanks
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