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'99 3800 Z34 Stalling

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  #1  
Old 10-11-2013, 11:31 AM
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Default '99 3800 Z34 Stalling

Hi, My sons car was purchased around 2 years ago used at a car lot. Haven't had any issues except for an alternator since we got it.

Last week he said it stalled while driving, but that it fired up after a few tries.

Two days later, no start. it cranked and fired a couple times, but no start.

Next day I thought "start with the easiest, cheapest thing first - the filter.

So I went to where the car was, but not having a line wrench was unable to remove the filter with the regular wrenches I have.

I had the thought "Its doing this intermittently - Hey Tony, try and fire it up"

Sure enough, it started and we could at least got it home.

SO that's where we stand right now.

I've been researching......decided that since he only has one ign key that he should at least try and get a brand new one.

Went to the dealer parts guy, who told us that it was the PKII key that it would not even crank. Which it does. We still bot a new key though, since he only has the one

The car will crank (this is on the odd chance that its picked that time to not start) and even fire a couple times but no full-start.

The I asked the parts guy if he had an opinion about what it could be - given the symptoms.

He said the fuel pump would be his next target. He said it should buzz for about 2 minutes while it builds pressure.

We came home and it does buzz kinda loudly, but only for about 2 or 3 seconds, then silence. I might add that the car is starting atm.

The guy did say that if it was the pump getting weak that some starting fluid to get it fired up, that usually after its running that it will continue to run.

He said a new GM part will be $500 with 3 hrs labor at $100 per/hr. Of course he's selling parts......he said that the aftermarket pumps all usually fail lol.

So.......I'm wondering if I should go ahead and pursue this or check on more of the electronics side of things
 
  #2  
Old 10-11-2013, 12:48 PM
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Pulled the rear seat. No access ;-(.

I'm searching ATM for how to test for line pressure. I'll buy a gauge if it's cheaper than paying someone. Otherwise I'll take it to my mechanic.

The guy we use is a genius when it comes to 80/90s era cars. We had a 89 (I think) cutlass (same basic car lol) had it all over town. No one could figger it out. Picked this guy out of the book. He instantly knew. Turned out it wAs the injectors. And he even found us some remans for half the price! Saved us a ton of money.

It's hard to find guys like that.

We're toying with just letting him take it. But if I could just nail down exactly what it is I'd be willing to do the work.

Never dropped a tank before but I have mechanical exp so it shouldn't be too hard.

I just need to be sure first.

Any advise as to troubleshooting it is much appreciated.
 
  #3  
Old 10-11-2013, 01:42 PM
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it might be best to take it to your mechanic that you've used before... dropping the fuel tank is not really complicated but the straps are usually rusted and will need to be replaced... also if you do decide to drop the tank try to run the car close to out of fuel.... 17 gallons of gas is pretty heavy!

from the sound of it your fuel pump is probibly OK, many GM's you can hear fairly loudly for 2 seconds after the key is turned on while it pressureizes the fuel system, then they will be quiet once the system has pressure.

to me it almost sounds like an ignition system issue more than a fuel issue. like a coil pack or cam position sensor issue.

BUT i'm not a mechanic, and it's been a few years scince i've really wrenched on my monte. like i said, it would probibly be best to have your mechanic diagnose and repair the car instead of throwing parts at it yourself.
 
  #4  
Old 10-11-2013, 02:10 PM
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Thank you.

I'll see about checking the line pressure if I can find out how. If I can't then probably the mechanic will be my next try.

One thing. It stalled on him once whole driving it. But it started ok a few mins later. That seems really wierd to me.

As I've searched for answers I've read MAP sensor , MAF sensor, coil pack, cam sensor, passkey/ignition, .........

So you can see that's a pretty daunting list. I was just hoping someone had the exact same experience and could say ......xyz........

More I think about it the mechanic route sounds like the cheapest thing in the long run
 
  #5  
Old 10-11-2013, 03:13 PM
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when i had problems on my 99z34fuel pump u could hear hiss underneath constantly. it sounded like like there was air rushing out from underneath the car. before that started the pump would always be silent other than then the prime upon startup.
 
  #6  
Old 10-11-2013, 03:38 PM
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Heres something to check...

Unplug The MAF Start and drive the car... If it starts/runs flawlessly.. that's your problem... If that's the problem..replace it with an AC Delco only!

I did a fuel pump at 130,000 miles only because the fuel pressure at the fuel rail... was insufficient...

How many miles on it?

Ive never had to change mine... But 2nd I'd consider a crank sensor "IF" the MAF test fails.

iac_01.jpg
 
  #7  
Old 10-11-2013, 04:24 PM
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I'm not sure the mileage but it's over 100k.

I know auto zone will throw a tester on it for free. Maybe I'll run it over there if it starts tomorrow.

It's like I said if I can nail down the problem then I can do the work.

Before I started buying late model cars and trucks I did all my own repair work so that won't be a hard thing for me. Especially if it's something on or around the top of the engine.

Thank you for the illustrated pic. That helps a lot in knowing what is what.
 
  #8  
Old 10-12-2013, 07:43 AM
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I just reread your post lol.

I will try the maf sensor. The thing is the car sometimes starts and runs fine for a day or two. Ooh, you know, I just remembered - the day he was stranded at work and I unsuccessfully tried to remove the filter, when I told him to try and see if it would fire up, he started it and it stumbled at first. I'd say for about the first second - it stuttered, then ran normally.

I could imagine the mass air flow causing that behavior.

Anyways

At least it's the weekend and we have arrangements for him to get to work.

Ill unplug the MAF sensor and just drive it around the neighborhood, stopping now and then to shut it down and restart. See if it duplicates the stall problem.

It shouldn't make a big problem for me if it stalls. Ill be in walking distance from home lol. Plus my other son who lives with me will be home after 3p. He can help if it potentially stalls and won't restart.

I don't anticipate that happening. It has restarted at some point each time it stalled/no start.

BTW very nice group of people here.

Cheers to you all!

I frequent Guitar forums and I know that to have one as easy going as this one is a rare thing.

Bob
 

Last edited by shredhed; 10-12-2013 at 07:54 AM.
  #9  
Old 10-12-2013, 10:54 AM
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Bob,
I just thought of something else...

I would check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail as well. (you can borrow a tester from your local auto parts)

It could also be something as simple as a clogged catalytic converter...
That's never been an issue on mine... Mine has 167,000 miles on it currently.

Maybe its time to change the plugs and wires? What ever plug you choose... Be sure there OEM stock replacements... (Do not use BOSCH plugs)
 

Last edited by STUMPMI; 10-12-2013 at 10:56 AM.
  #10  
Old 10-12-2013, 03:51 PM
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Thanks.

My other son is home. He has a plug in thing which coms with blu tooth on his smart phone.

It's throwing p0446

Evap system. That's a big area, but at least it's a start.

We're going to test the resistance at the sensor.......
 


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