Tested the purge solenoid valve.

30.1 ohms

Idk if that means anything

 

Just for fun pulled a spark plug. They're old and burned out.

Went and bought a set and a bottle of injector cleaner.

Got home and pulled the second plug and found its wire was burned half in two.

I'm sick today so we re waiting till tomorrow to finish changing the plugs, and a trip somewhere to get a wire.

 

Just checking in.

The plugs looked bad. Firing white like they should on 3 (the burnt wire one) and 5, although 3 should have been gas soaked from not firing due to the burned through wire. Well not burned through, but the outside casing was fried. The electrode were white indicating good air/fuel mix.

Number 1 was gas soaked, but had an apparently good wire (another paradox).

So bottom line I replaced the 1,3, and 5 plugs and wires.

Runs better than it did before.

I do have a scenario that I think happened, only time will tell whether I'm right.

Scenario:
Number one plug wire was bad, or the coil pack is bad, intermittently failing.
Number 5 had a burned wire that was working sometimes, while at other times it was arcing and not firing the plug.

When both plugs were not firing the car would not run, but when #5 was firing he still had 5 cylinders firing, although 5 was also only firing intermittently.

It was just chance that both 1 and 5 together were down at the same time at startup, or resulting in the stall when he was driving.

It runs like a champ now, with zero misfires or anything.

If it is a coil pack then it will fail again at some point, but there's no way of knowing short of taking it to a mechanic, or dealer. The thing is we have an OBD II tester, which isn't showing anything on the electrical system atm.

( its still throwing the evap code,but I don't think that's causing his problem because its running like a striped ape right now)

So for now he's a guinea pig.

 

I'm back!!

LOL

Well it stalled again.

I've had it for them last week,since it died again.

Since then I've learned a bunch.

The Torque brand obd2 tester says that the fuel trim on bank 2 is at 99%. The other bank is fine.

I looked it up and what I found suggested that it could be a vacuum leak.

My older son said it could be the MAF.

He said it should read 160 at 5200 rpm.

It only got up to 104.

Could this be my culprit?

 

A vaccuum leak could mess with maf readings

 

My son finally got a scan when it's running bad.

It's a bad O2 sensor on bank 2. The same bank that the trim function isdumping 99% of the fuel in to compensate.

Finally. That something to go on

 

Ok the code was po141

Downstream o2 sensor.

I got one today. Didn't get the stuff to spray on it first. I can't remember what I read that it's called. But I will find it tonight and get some tomorrow.

From what I've read that code could indicate a bad cat. I hope not. But we'll see.

Is one side of the car better to raise or does that not matter. (Sorry I'm not at home to check) it doesn't really matter though. I'll find out which side the exhaust is on tomorrow.

I have some anti seize left over from when I bought the new plugs. So I should be good to go except for the special socket. But I've read that it's possible without one.

 

Edit: I meant to say the spray was to spray on the old on first lol not the new one.

 

I've been looking but I can only see the one from the top just after the manifold.

The cat hasn't got anything near it that I can see anywhere.

Can someone tell me plz where the downstream o2sensor is?

Thx

 

down stream O2 is after the cat under the car. if you drilled a hole thru the cup holder you prob would hit it!

A faulty down stream O2 will not cause any starting or drivability issues. Also the symptoms of a clogged cat are normally hesitation or complete inability to accelerate past 4,000 rpm and don't normally cause starting issues. evap leaks can cause some issues but its not likely it will cause the car to die while driving nor keep it from starting. also at start-up the maf isn't used until the car warms up and enters closed loop so maf failure will not cause the issue either.

from what i read it sounds like you only replaced half the wires. I suggest installing the rest of the wires and all new plugs if you did not replace the rear. this car uses a waist spark system where the spark goes into one plug and out another. so if one is bad you will actually have 2 bad cylinders. It doesn't sound like you have any misfire codes, so i would venture to say your coils are good.

did you ever get the fuel pressure tested? you should have around 45-50 psi after key on once the system is primed.

when you have the issues with it not starting does the RPM/tach jump wildly? if so that is a big hint that the crank sensor is bad.

I hope this helps and didnt overwhelm you. any questions just let me know