i dont have any hoses by the belt tensioner to bypass the heater core cant i remove the hoses that supply it then just put a hose to the two pipes that feed the heater core

 

Yes. Sorry I was thinking of a 3.8L when I described the belt tensioner.

 

before i do that if i got a good flow through the heater core with a garden hose could it still be clogged.when i flushed entire system i get really good flow through everything

 

Flow through a garden hose is it at much higher pressure than what coolant circulates through at. The core or radiator could be restricted (not completely clogged) and still give problems. When restricted, pressure will be lower on the outlet side of the restriction in the direction of flow, that's why the hose collapses. It creates a vacuum. Coolant can't pass through the restriction as fast as the water pump is trying to circulate it.

 

ok. the hoses only collapse once in a while for the past week they havnt collapsed i get good flow at the thermostat bleeder and some times i get lots of air then start getting a stream of coolent and this is every time i start it.and like a said after about an hour of bleeding i will get heat but only when the thermostat opens then it goes away until the car heats back up to temp it very weird to me why it is doing this,and now the little hose on top of water pump doesn't get hot until i lossen clamp a little bit and i get air coming out then coolent. it's like everything is bad on the car,and that cant be true.and i still get coolent pouring out the neck of the rad it doesnt spray out just flows out then back in then out so weird.

 

Are you bleeding with the engine up to full operating temp., t-stat open?

 

Is the coolant coming out when only when the thermostat opens up or anytime it's running ? If you have access to a pressure tester I would pump the system up to 10-12 lbs and see if it builds more pressure while running to see if head gasket is letting pressure into system and creating air pocket.