1985 Monte Carlo SS Problems [NEED HELP]
#11
08-01-2012, 02:53 PM
MySS,I too have an 85 MCSS.There were some problems with the dash also.After almost pulling my hair out I pulled the gauges from the car.The harness to power the gauges is attached on the lower right side.The cluster pushes onto that.Over time the connection breaks down.My dash had a bad printed circuit board on back.It folds over into the hole on back of the gauge cluster.Then its pressed onto the harness plug on the lower right side.The PCB was broken at the folds not making contact 100% of the time.I replaced the PCB and fixed it. BTW,the clock was straight wired when I pulled the gauges out. HTH Muley
#12
08-01-2012, 03:17 PM
His car doesn't have a clock that is where the tac is
You may want to check at your distributer and make sure that the tac signal is hooked up
kind of hard to see in the pics but the tac signal plug is on the engine side and the firewall side is your battery conection
Stock caps if i am not mistaken are not marked but my aftermarket accel one was
You may want to check at your distributer and make sure that the tac signal is hooked up
kind of hard to see in the pics but the tac signal plug is on the engine side and the firewall side is your battery conection
Stock caps if i am not mistaken are not marked but my aftermarket accel one was
Last edited by Budsjlm; 08-01-2012 at 03:24 PM.
#13
08-03-2012, 06:44 PM
hmmm im going to start working on it this weekend when, but i looked under the hood yesterday with a friend and he noticed it was dripping gas im not sure what the part was he said fuel pump....im thinking its the fuel filter, has a line coming from tank to it and a line leaving it going to the carb its right below the alternator. any ideas what it is?
#14
08-04-2012, 08:47 AM
If the vehicle still has the factory wiring going to the distributor there should be a 2 wire connector plugged into the cap. One (front) wire provides voltage and the other (rear) is the tach wire.
If the part leaking fuel is attached to the engine block it is the fuel pump. You'll have to inspect further to determine exactly where the leak is. It could be a loose fitting/line or it could be a bad diaphram. If the fuel is coming out the bottom of the pump through the 'weep hole' it is the later of the two and you'll need to replace the pump. If the car sat for any amount of time the diaphram could have dried out then tore when put back into use. This is a common problem with mechanical fuel pumps. If you need to replace the pump it will go smoother if you rotate the engine until the pump actuator rod is on the base circle of the camshaft and not the lobe. This will relieve tension on it so you're not fighting to seat the pump against the engine block. A little bit of grease applied to the fuel pump rod will hold it in the block while you situate the pump.
If the part leaking is inline with the fuel hose it is the fuel filter. It could be old/dry cracked hose or (a common problem) the clamp was overtightened and broke through the line where it pushes on to the nipple of the filter. It could also be physical damage to the filter housing, but the hoses are usually the source of the leak.
If the part leaking fuel is attached to the engine block it is the fuel pump. You'll have to inspect further to determine exactly where the leak is. It could be a loose fitting/line or it could be a bad diaphram. If the fuel is coming out the bottom of the pump through the 'weep hole' it is the later of the two and you'll need to replace the pump. If the car sat for any amount of time the diaphram could have dried out then tore when put back into use. This is a common problem with mechanical fuel pumps. If you need to replace the pump it will go smoother if you rotate the engine until the pump actuator rod is on the base circle of the camshaft and not the lobe. This will relieve tension on it so you're not fighting to seat the pump against the engine block. A little bit of grease applied to the fuel pump rod will hold it in the block while you situate the pump.
If the part leaking is inline with the fuel hose it is the fuel filter. It could be old/dry cracked hose or (a common problem) the clamp was overtightened and broke through the line where it pushes on to the nipple of the filter. It could also be physical damage to the filter housing, but the hoses are usually the source of the leak.
#15
08-04-2012, 08:51 AM
If the vehicle still has the factory wiring going to the distributor there should be a 2 wire connector plugged into the cap. One (front) wire provides voltage and the other (rear) is the tach wire.
If the part leaking fuel is attached to the engine block it is the fuel pump. You'll have to inspect further to determine exactly where the leak is. It could be a loose fitting/line or it could be a bad diaphram. If the fuel is coming out the bottom of the pump through the 'weep hole' it is the later of the two and you'll need to replace the pump. If the car sat for any amount of time the diaphram could have dried out then tore when put back into use. This is a common problem with mechanical fuel pumps. If you need to replace the pump it will go smoother if you rotate the engine until the pump actuator rod is on the base circle of the camshaft and not the lobe. This will relieve tension on it so you're not fighting to seat the pump against the engine block. A little bit of grease applied to the fuel pump rod will hold it in the block while you situate the pump.
If the part leaking is inline with the fuel hose it is the fuel filter. It could be old/dry cracked hose or (a common problem) the clamp was overtightened and broke through the line where it pushes on to the nipple of the filter. It could also be physical damage to the filter housing, but the hoses are usually the source of the leak.
If the part leaking fuel is attached to the engine block it is the fuel pump. You'll have to inspect further to determine exactly where the leak is. It could be a loose fitting/line or it could be a bad diaphram. If the fuel is coming out the bottom of the pump through the 'weep hole' it is the later of the two and you'll need to replace the pump. If the car sat for any amount of time the diaphram could have dried out then tore when put back into use. This is a common problem with mechanical fuel pumps. If you need to replace the pump it will go smoother if you rotate the engine until the pump actuator rod is on the base circle of the camshaft and not the lobe. This will relieve tension on it so you're not fighting to seat the pump against the engine block. A little bit of grease applied to the fuel pump rod will hold it in the block while you situate the pump.
If the part leaking is inline with the fuel hose it is the fuel filter. It could be old/dry cracked hose or (a common problem) the clamp was overtightened and broke through the line where it pushes on to the nipple of the filter. It could also be physical damage to the filter housing, but the hoses are usually the source of the leak.
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#16
08-04-2012, 09:03 AM
Yep, that's the fuel pump. They didn't have a pump in the tank that year, so no worries about that. You'll need to check the lines and the weep hole on the bottom of the pump to determine the source of the leak.
#17
08-04-2012, 09:07 AM
appreciate the help it looks brand new, looks like is the fuel line leaving it to go to the carb is cross threaded because thats where its dripping from ill check it out more later today need to fix it before i drive it because its dripping quite a bit of gas and only does it when its running
#18
08-04-2012, 09:09 AM
would that also mean that there is only a fuel sending unit in the tank? my gauges dont work and that could be 1 of the causes for the fuel gauge, but i wont be replacing that until i get at least speedo working
#19
08-04-2012, 09:12 AM
Your welcome, that's what the forum and its members are here for. 
When that happens it is usually the brass adapter that the threads get buggered up on. You might get away with just replacing the fitting. That would be cool because then you don't have to R&R the pump...unless the line threads directly into the pump. If that's the case it's probably the threads in the pump. 
When that happens it is usually the brass adapter that the threads get buggered up on. You might get away with just replacing the fitting. That would be cool because then you don't have to R&R the pump...unless the line threads directly into the pump. If that's the case it's probably the threads in the pump.