Thinking about installing a new sound system
#11
12-12-2010, 01:17 PM
thanks man, its nothing big but it's still in the works. You'll love those alpines, one thing you may want to look into is just one, you will save money and if you power it right it will sound just as good, my 10 is just as loud as a friend that has the exact setup with the amp i just posted.
just a thought though, unless your going for a huge system, then you may want to look into something like RE
just a thought though, unless your going for a huge system, then you may want to look into something like RE
#12
12-12-2010, 01:18 PM
another audio company:
http://reaudio.com/home.html
if you really want to know what a good system is look at josh's, jaws, he has put a ton of work into his and it's come out great!
https://montecarloforum.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=23040
http://reaudio.com/home.html
if you really want to know what a good system is look at josh's, jaws, he has put a ton of work into his and it's come out great!
https://montecarloforum.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=23040
#13
12-12-2010, 02:18 PM
DadeCountyMonte
Don't fret on the installation of the deck, it's easy, the hardest part is removing the dash trim piece. The install of the harness is a walk in the park, as long as you connect the wires as shown on the harness packaging and don't do something stupid like connecting the power to the ground (which is the only way I can think of that even remotely has a chance at damaging the computer) then you'll be fine.
Those subs you've picked out are nice, but don't get them from Crutchfield, they charge way too much for them. You can get them $60 cheaper and SonicElectronix. I don't know if anybody here has ordered from them but I have, they're legit, have great prices and customer service is pretty good too. Also, you need to decide what ohm load you want to run, the lower the ohm load the harder it'll be on your electrical system. The subs you picked, if you run two of them, you can run them at 2 or .5 ohms, if you get dual 4 ohm subs you can run them at either 4 or 1 ohms. I'd say stick with the dual 2 ohm subs and run them at 2 ohms. It'll be less of a strain than if you went dual 4 and ran them at 1 ohm, and you won't have a hard time finding a reasonably priced amp to give them the power they'd need, especially if you decided to run them at 4 ohms.
As for what amp to power them with....Those subs are underrated, meaning they can handle more power than they say. So I'd strongly consider that you give them at least 1200-1500 watts rms for the pair. What amp to use? Well, there's no reason at all to stick with the same brand unless you're **** like that about having everything in your setup the same brand. There is absolutely nothing to gain, aside from aesthetics, by sticking with the same brand. Contrary to popular belief, they aren't made specifically for use with any particular sub, including their own. After all, a sub is simply a reactive load, there's no electronics in a sub that allow any better or worse communication or response to one amp or another. If an amp will do 1000 watts rms @ 1 ohm, it'll do the exact same power the exact same way no matter what logo is attached to the device that is providing said 1 ohm load.
That being said the Alpine amp listed above, while a solid amp for sure, isn't exactly the best choice for this application. It'll do a little over rated power but the main problem is that it's rated at 14.4 volts, which means unless your car's electrical system can maintain a solid 14.4v, that amp won't put out that much power. That being said, it would be a better idea to go with an amp rater a bit higher to accomodate for any voltage decrease and because those Type R's really come alive with a good 600-800 rms on them. So a couple amps I'd suggest are:
AudioQue AQ2200D 1300rms x 1 @ 2 ohms (will also do 2200rms x 1 @ 1 ohm) $389 shipped
HiFonics Brutus BXi2010D 1300rms x 1 @ 2 ohms (will do2000rms x 1 @ 1 ohm) ~$260
JL Audio G-Max 1200 1200rms x 1 @ 2 ohms ~$350
Just keep in mind that it's always better to leave yourself some headroom (have more power than needed) than to not have enough power and drive your amp to it's max and possibly induce clipping by cranking your volume **** too high. Clipping = blown subs
Don't fret on the installation of the deck, it's easy, the hardest part is removing the dash trim piece. The install of the harness is a walk in the park, as long as you connect the wires as shown on the harness packaging and don't do something stupid like connecting the power to the ground (which is the only way I can think of that even remotely has a chance at damaging the computer) then you'll be fine.
Those subs you've picked out are nice, but don't get them from Crutchfield, they charge way too much for them. You can get them $60 cheaper and SonicElectronix. I don't know if anybody here has ordered from them but I have, they're legit, have great prices and customer service is pretty good too. Also, you need to decide what ohm load you want to run, the lower the ohm load the harder it'll be on your electrical system. The subs you picked, if you run two of them, you can run them at 2 or .5 ohms, if you get dual 4 ohm subs you can run them at either 4 or 1 ohms. I'd say stick with the dual 2 ohm subs and run them at 2 ohms. It'll be less of a strain than if you went dual 4 and ran them at 1 ohm, and you won't have a hard time finding a reasonably priced amp to give them the power they'd need, especially if you decided to run them at 4 ohms.
As for what amp to power them with....Those subs are underrated, meaning they can handle more power than they say. So I'd strongly consider that you give them at least 1200-1500 watts rms for the pair. What amp to use? Well, there's no reason at all to stick with the same brand unless you're **** like that about having everything in your setup the same brand. There is absolutely nothing to gain, aside from aesthetics, by sticking with the same brand. Contrary to popular belief, they aren't made specifically for use with any particular sub, including their own. After all, a sub is simply a reactive load, there's no electronics in a sub that allow any better or worse communication or response to one amp or another. If an amp will do 1000 watts rms @ 1 ohm, it'll do the exact same power the exact same way no matter what logo is attached to the device that is providing said 1 ohm load.
That being said the Alpine amp listed above, while a solid amp for sure, isn't exactly the best choice for this application. It'll do a little over rated power but the main problem is that it's rated at 14.4 volts, which means unless your car's electrical system can maintain a solid 14.4v, that amp won't put out that much power. That being said, it would be a better idea to go with an amp rater a bit higher to accomodate for any voltage decrease and because those Type R's really come alive with a good 600-800 rms on them. So a couple amps I'd suggest are:
AudioQue AQ2200D 1300rms x 1 @ 2 ohms (will also do 2200rms x 1 @ 1 ohm) $389 shipped
HiFonics Brutus BXi2010D 1300rms x 1 @ 2 ohms (will do2000rms x 1 @ 1 ohm) ~$260
JL Audio G-Max 1200 1200rms x 1 @ 2 ohms ~$350
Just keep in mind that it's always better to leave yourself some headroom (have more power than needed) than to not have enough power and drive your amp to it's max and possibly induce clipping by cranking your volume **** too high. Clipping = blown subs
#14
12-12-2010, 04:00 PM
Monte Of The Month -- April 2011
GOT SPL
Thanks trewyn15 for the reference.
If you like the Alpine you could look at the Type X line. I had the 12" Alpine type X at one point as was impressed. The new Rockford Fosgate Power series amps are way underrated and are really good.
If you like the Alpine you could look at the Type X line. I had the 12" Alpine type X at one point as was impressed. The new Rockford Fosgate Power series amps are way underrated and are really good.
#15
12-12-2010, 10:24 PM
meh my buddy has a set of those. with a low end system like this, he had the best results by adding a bass processor. their like 50-100$ but worth it if you want a bit more kick, if you install it and find you want more bass try it out. since it's inherently difficult to transfer bass into a sealed cabin, add a bass processing unit they usialy have bass boosting built in, make sure you get a unit with it but like i said, most do.
#16
12-12-2010, 11:15 PM
meh my buddy has a set of those. with a low end system like this, he had the best results by adding a bass processor. their like 50-100$ but worth it if you want a bit more kick, if you install it and find you want more bass try it out. since it's inherently difficult to transfer bass into a sealed cabin, add a bass processing unit they usialy have bass boosting built in, make sure you get a unit with it but like i said, most do.
#17
12-12-2010, 11:35 PM
Monte Of The Month -- April 2011
GOT SPL
Some have input output voltage boosters along with another option or 2 on some. The one I chose is basically for the ***, and some built in equalization.
#18
12-12-2010, 11:42 PM
i sent my parents links for a few of those, including the one you got, i just want one so i can shut it completely off. hopefully i get that for christmas lol
#20
12-12-2010, 11:57 PM
lol slacker... haha i can't wait to get home and put all my time into my car lol