SQ build
#51
alright, i did the passenger side, and repaired the driver side to the angle i liked.
i achived this by simply removing one of the back angle posts, and put in a longer one, the spandex simply streched out, i'll have to fill in a bunch than.
mocking up the passenger side
it didn't work out
fixed
i did a few more things, i finished wraping the passenger side in spandex, and tweaekd the angle a bit more. i think things are going well for my first time :P
i achived this by simply removing one of the back angle posts, and put in a longer one, the spandex simply streched out, i'll have to fill in a bunch than.
mocking up the passenger side
it didn't work out
fixed
i did a few more things, i finished wraping the passenger side in spandex, and tweaekd the angle a bit more. i think things are going well for my first time :P
#53
Perfect example of why I think off axis works best when doing a-pillar installs...going for on axis install causes you to end up with a pod that sticks out crazy, doesn't flow well at all and is very conspicuous. Are you going to be running active? I sure hope so if you're doing those pods on axis.
#54
Perfect example of why I think off axis works best when doing a-pillar installs...going for on axis install causes you to end up with a pod that sticks out crazy, doesn't flow well at all and is very conspicuous. Are you going to be running active? I sure hope so if you're doing those pods on axis.
why would i waste 300$ drivers that have a huge cut off off axis and run them completely off axis?
#55
As for your install, if you want something that looks like it was molded into the pillar I'd suggest you redo your wrapping so it extends further up the pillar. For the bottom side you might want to take a fiberglass mold of the immediate area of the dash the driver sits directly over that way you can have a base for the pod where it meets the dash and you can attach that to the pillar so when its installed it looks very form fitting and molded to the contours of the dash instead of like some cystic protrusion.
#56
As for your install, if you want something that looks like it was molded into the pillar I'd suggest you redo your wrapping so it extends further up the pillar. For the bottom side you might want to take a fiberglass mold of the immediate area of the dash the driver sits directly over that way you can have a base for the pod where it meets the dash and you can attach that to the pillar so when its installed it looks very form fitting and molded to the contours of the dash instead of like some cystic protrusion.
#57
Your insenuation is that off axis = bad, you might want to try to speak to Bing at Simplicity in Sound about that, I promise you that you will come away from that conversation with alot more knowledge on the subject and possibly even a new opinion on it. That man has worked with wire that costs more than your drivers and is very well versed in SQ installations.
As for your install, if you want something that looks like it was molded into the pillar I'd suggest you redo your wrapping so it extends further up the pillar. For the bottom side you might want to take a fiberglass mold of the immediate area of the dash the driver sits directly over that way you can have a base for the pod where it meets the dash and you can attach that to the pillar so when its installed it looks very form fitting and molded to the contours of the dash instead of like some cystic protrusion.
As for your install, if you want something that looks like it was molded into the pillar I'd suggest you redo your wrapping so it extends further up the pillar. For the bottom side you might want to take a fiberglass mold of the immediate area of the dash the driver sits directly over that way you can have a base for the pod where it meets the dash and you can attach that to the pillar so when its installed it looks very form fitting and molded to the contours of the dash instead of like some cystic protrusion.
far as you're advise for the pods..i did give that method thought, but i wanted something exlusive to the the A pillar, something that didn't touch the dash.
far as blending, my finish will be vinyl which will be over top of bondo, so everything SHOULD look very stock'sh at least my goal is to make people think "what the hell would the facotry do that for" that's the impression i'm going for. the positioning ive talked to mannnnnny people about, i've come to this conclusion based purely on the fact that really in the end it all comes down to what you think sounds the best to you, that was the ocncensus i took from all of the advice, because i heard many people both saying what you're saying, and others who would swear on a bibble to a more on axis angle.
these drivers how ever do do very poorly off axis, though with the frequency's in question, the axis becomes rather moot, and in that case you're right off axis wouldn't really matter, but for me..i just wanna do things my way and i like the way this looks, and it offers the "better" response out of the speakers.
anyways, to speak a bit about the project, i just picked up a 1 gallen tub of bondo, some sand paper, and some poxy glue :X i broke one of the pins in the A pillar, and it is a key pin, i tried my gorilla glue, but for the first time it failed me its a pretty small surface so i wasn't sure if it was going to work anyways.
anyhoo, i got the pillars sitting out back, i went apposed to his advise and i'm keeping my angles, for now i'm just glassing in the Mids, i'm still really on the fence about the tweeters, another one of those things where i have people swearing on a bibble it'd be rediculouse to run with out them than others saying i'll be fine, than theirs my ears telling me that they do indeed sound fine with out tweeters, but reguardless to the fact i need more benching time with the tweeters, so i'm gonna glass the mids in, mount em up and maybe try some more listening on some more frequencys with the tweeters.
scott advised me to go with something like 8-10k cut off for the tweeters, but really nothing was coming through em, this is supposed to be a "sparkle" to the extreamly high end to keep it nice nad bright and tight but really almost nothing plays up their so ive been trying 5k, 3500, and 2500 for cut offs, with varrying cuts offs on the mids as well. this has turned out to be far more work than i ever imagened, i mean i knew it would be allot but man oh man
#59
i'm currently waiting for the 2nd layer to dry idk if i'm gonna apply the bondo today, probobly not, its mostly drying but i still don't have 100% uniformity through out the structure.
the passenger side wasn't as taunter and it sagged a bit when it got wet, but not a big deal i'll just have more to fill in with bondo.
i will take your advise parcily, i will feather in the top of the cones by giving them a longer angle with the bondo. going to be allllllllllllot of sand time for this, not looking forward.