One more quick question, how can you tell the orange power from the orange "class 2 serial data" ?

 

Did a little looking in the shop book on your '05 and some info.
The diag port:
orange wire, pin 16 is on circuit 2140 (power)

Radio Connector (if you can look at the back of the connector, usually some markings to indicate pins is cast into the plastic):
orange wire, pin B1 is on circuit 2640 (power) - note B2 is not used, B3 is white.
orange wire, pin A1 is on circuit 1044 (data connection) - note A2-A5 is not used

Circuit 2640 is the same for power to the radio, power to the amp and power to the XM module (if equipped).

From what I can tell, the DLC (diag port) and the radio/amp do not share any common fuses. They are independent of each other.

Now, the radio:
- under the hood it has a 60A fuse (big guy) that is used for the radio, defroster, amp and looks like a couple of things.
- fuse panel on the right side of the dash, a 15A fuse for the radio (looks like it's only if you have the UQ3 sound package).

Odds are if you arc-ed something, you blew something. I would verify both the fuses I mentioned. Best to verify with a test light or trade out with a known good fuse (I have seen where a fuse looks good to the eye, but someone else proved to me with a test light it was dead).

Hope this is of some help.

 

Thanks for all your help thus far. I've been checking with a multimeter, but I'll do a visual double check to be sure.

I'll double check the fuses, do you know which 60A it is? None of them explicitly say entertainment or radio. If I remember right, there are INT1 INT2 and INT3, I'm guessing for interior. I don't think I have the UQ3 package, the speakers sound like paper cones so probably not the prem. package, but I'll check to be sure.

 

I just checked all the 60A fuses under the hood and the whole right interior fuse panel. Every fuse has continuity with a multimeter.
Are there any other easily checked components that I am overlooking? Do one of the breakers or fusible links cover the power to the radio?
The defroster(rear) seemed to work in march/april, even though the radio didn't have power.
Also, The dome light doesn't work, but the one in the foot well does. Not sure if that helps any, could just be burnt out.

Hopefully I didn't fry the power wire for the radio.

 

From what I could tell in the shop book those are the only fused links for the radio. Right now I don't have any good ideas

 

Do you happen to know where the 2640 orange radio power originates? As one last option, I'm thinking of checking the beginning of the wire for power, which will lead to either more questions or hopefully some answers.

If it has power in the beginning, I'm just going to perform a bypass.

 

Looks like the wires for circuit 2640 can be found on fuse panel on the right side of that dash. According to the shop book, on connector C1, a wire for circuit 2640 is pin F11. Same fuse panel, connector C2 has a wire for circuit 2640 on pin F2 (and this is labeled UQ3).

If I am following the shop book correctly, connector C1 is the "inside" connector (accessible from removing the glove box). I am guessing that is the wire to power the radio (based on it's location on the fuse block).
This would mean C2 should be the "outside" connector. My guess is that is the wire for the amp, since it's labeled UQ3 (which I believe is am amp/speaker package). That wire is going to travel under the carpet and I believe ride mostly along the rocker panel to the back of the car.

I believe there are castings on the connectors to give you a point of reference for identifying the pins (it might feel a bit like playing Battleship lol).

As I recall, the fuse block is not hard to remove from the car. Might be worth removing it and doing a continuity check from the fuse to those pins for those connectors (validate nothing internal has failed).

Here's a thread I made that outlines how to remove the fuse block:
https://montecarloforum.com/forum/fw...breaker-33233/

 

So a good plan of action would be to check the radio fuse retainer pins with a test light? then check the fuse panel, if it isn't getting power?

Thinking about it, besides fuses, those thin tinny OEM connectors would be the next thing to short out.

One more stupid question, would the data connector for the radio somehow have continuity with ground? A couple of months ago before I knew the oranges apart, I noticed one of them had continuity with ground, if its the power, I definitely have a short somewhere.

Edit: the wire that had ground continuity was the thinner of the two, its the best I can do without taking the radio back out.

Thanks for the link, it's going to be helpful.

 

To my knowledge, the data wire should not have continuity with ground (as the data is it's own circuit). Not sure if grounding out the data circuit well cause any issues or not.

 

Problem semi-resolved. I had a faulty multimeter, it was infact the radio fuse.

I still have the previous problem, static coming through the speakers with no sound through the radio and no chimes.
It seems there's potentially three different causes.
1. speaker(s) grounded
2. blown radio
3. bad amplifier

As previously stated, I fixed GM's problem splices as I did in the impala, no dice. I'm going to check the impala's amp to see if it shares the same part number, just to rule it out.

I'm planning on eventually installing an aftermarket radio and speakers, w/ amp so I'm not too upset about the issue. It would be nice to have something to listen to in the meantime though...