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need help with a new system

Old May 14, 2010 | 04:56 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by theeohiostate6
what would be a good capacitor to look at? i got the jl 500/1 and a W7
None! Capacitors are a waste of money, IMO. The reason a cap would be needed is because the alternator can't supply enough current to power everything without voltage drop, a cap might be a band aid of sorts but in the end it's just another component that needs current from the alternator. So if the alt is already overworked to begin with, adding another item to the mix that needs power from the alt doesn't make much sense. It makes more sense to upgrade your battery to a nice deep cycle and do the Big 3 first to see if that helps things. If not, you could fix the problem by getting a h/o alternator that puts out more amperage than stock. A cap wouldn't be such a bad idea if your electrical system was up to par (as in deep cycle battery/Big 3/high output alt) but most people try to use them to bring their electrical up to par.

Originally Posted by trewyn15
i have noticed that some are kind of distorted and not as accurate as others but it all depends on how you power it and what you tune it too also
Interesting, I never knew caps could distort and not be accurate or be tuned. Can you do a write up on how to tune a cap?

Originally Posted by ChibiBlackSheep
What is it about Audio threads that always start arguments?
Horrendous advice, blatant lies and bruised ego's. That pretty much covers it.

Originally Posted by ChibiBlackSheep
If some information is wrong, it doesn't need to be pointed out the way that it has been with name calling and what not.
Can you please show me one instance in this whole thread where I pointed out the wrong info with name calling and what not? You can't cause it hasn't happened. I can't help it if he gets sensitive because i'm correcting the bad info he's putting out there, that's on him.

Originally Posted by ChibiBlackSheep
We're all adults here, some are misinformed, others are professionals. Neither have to act like babies.

I'm not pointing out anything in specific, but everyone be more careful with how you word things.
I'm not too sure how else to word things. He gave the wrong info, I gave the correct info, he didn't like it and continued to insist he was right, I tried numerous times to explain and show him how/why he was wrong by giving various examples and facts that supported my statements, he resorted to personal attacks since he had no factual basis on which to rely......the only thing I think I could have done better or different is not stooping to his level and taking shots back at him. But I was offended and did the same thing that I would do had he been in my presence when that happened, I stood up for myself and for that I will not apologize.

If i'm wrong, i'm wrong, I have no problem admitting it if I was. Ask Mak, I gave him some advice the other day, he told me why that wouldn't work, I didn't go on and on and insist that it would I simply admitted that I didn't know how to fix the problem I was trying to help him with. I have pride but it doesn't get in the way of admitting that i'm wrong, I don't know it all but i'm mature enough to accept that and am ok with it.
 
Old May 14, 2010 | 06:38 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by 04MonteLS
None! Capacitors are a waste of money, IMO. The reason a cap would be needed is because the alternator can't supply enough current to power everything without voltage drop, a cap might be a band aid of sorts but in the end it's just another component that needs current from the alternator. So if the alt is already overworked to begin with, adding another item to the mix that needs power from the alt doesn't make much sense. It makes more sense to upgrade your battery to a nice deep cycle and do the Big 3 first to see if that helps things. If not, you could fix the problem by getting a h/o alternator that puts out more amperage than stock. A cap wouldn't be such a bad idea if your electrical system was up to par (as in deep cycle battery/Big 3/high output alt) but most people try to use them to bring their electrical up to par.
could u possibly point me in the right direction of getting one of these batteries? like a brand and where to buy. Also what is a big 3? sorry for the questions I know my knowledge on this is lacking.
 
Old May 14, 2010 | 07:25 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by theeohiostate6
could u possibly point me in the right direction of getting one of these batteries? like a brand and where to buy. Also what is a big 3? sorry for the questions I know my knowledge on this is lacking.
There are a few brands that come to mind, XS Power, SVR, Optima, Kinetik, Stinger, BatCap. I have heard nothing but rave reviews about the XS Power batteries but man they are spendy! Optimia are probably the most popular but they seem to have a high failure rate. I personally run SVR, which are made by the largest battery manufacturer in the country MK Battery. I haven't had it long enough to really give a fair review (only about 9 months) but I have no complaints about it yet either. I don't know what online store would be best to go through to get a battery but you can do a google search for whatever product it is you want and you will have numerous options to choose from.

The Big 3 refers to 3 specific wires under your hood which are pretty small in diameter from the factory but when you upgrade them they can sometimes yield an increase in the amount of current one of them carries and provide better grounds for the other two. The wires are the alternator power wire, the battery to chassis ground and the engine block to chassis ground. Ask away man, there's a few folks here who know what's up and are more than willing to help!
 
Old May 14, 2010 | 08:23 PM
  #74  
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Sorry, you might have poited this out already but, instead of getting a better battery, cant you just upgrade or better yet, get a better alternator? I know on a previous car, a friend did a alt upgrade and I was able to run a 3000W amp, now, this was 3000 max and like 1200 rms but still the alt kept up with it just fine. No dimming of lights, when I idled the engine the power didnt drop, nothing. Basically, can you just get a better/upgraded alternator??
 
Old May 14, 2010 | 09:10 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by wht02monte
Sorry, you might have poited this out already but, instead of getting a better battery, cant you just upgrade or better yet, get a better alternator? I know on a previous car, a friend did a alt upgrade and I was able to run a 3000W amp, now, this was 3000 max and like 1200 rms but still the alt kept up with it just fine. No dimming of lights, when I idled the engine the power didnt drop, nothing. Basically, can you just get a better/upgraded alternator??
how easy is it to put in a alternator? cause i know I could do a battery no problem. Also you know the cost of a new/upgraded alternator?
 
Old May 14, 2010 | 09:36 PM
  #76  
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switching them is easy, but im not sure about matching them up with what fits what, or what amperage to use.
 
Old May 14, 2010 | 09:43 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by 04MonteLS
None! Capacitors are a waste of money, IMO. The reason a cap would be needed is because the alternator can't supply enough current to power everything without voltage drop, a cap might be a band aid of sorts but in the end it's just another component that needs current from the alternator. So if the alt is already overworked to begin with, adding another item to the mix that needs power from the alt doesn't make much sense. It makes more sense to upgrade your battery to a nice deep cycle and do the Big 3 first to see if that helps things. If not, you could fix the problem by getting a h/o alternator that puts out more amperage than stock. A cap wouldn't be such a bad idea if your electrical system was up to par (as in deep cycle battery/Big 3/high output alt) but most people try to use them to bring their electrical up to par.

Interesting, I never knew caps could distort and not be accurate or be tuned. Can you do a write up on how to tune a cap?

Horrendous advice, blatant lies and bruised ego's. That pretty much covers it.

Can you please show me one instance in this whole thread where I pointed out the wrong info with name calling and what not? You can't cause it hasn't happened. I can't help it if he gets sensitive because i'm correcting the bad info he's putting out there, that's on him.

I'm not too sure how else to word things. He gave the wrong info, I gave the correct info, he didn't like it and continued to insist he was right, I tried numerous times to explain and show him how/why he was wrong by giving various examples and facts that supported my statements, he resorted to personal attacks since he had no factual basis on which to rely......the only thing I think I could have done better or different is not stooping to his level and taking shots back at him. But I was offended and did the same thing that I would do had he been in my presence when that happened, I stood up for myself and for that I will not apologize.

If i'm wrong, i'm wrong, I have no problem admitting it if I was. Ask Mak, I gave him some advice the other day, he told me why that wouldn't work, I didn't go on and on and insist that it would I simply admitted that I didn't know how to fix the problem I was trying to help him with. I have pride but it doesn't get in the way of admitting that i'm wrong, I don't know it all but i'm mature enough to accept that and am ok with it.
thought he was talking about the subs, you knew what i meant.
 
Old May 15, 2010 | 11:48 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by wht02monte
Sorry, you might have poited this out already but, instead of getting a better battery, cant you just upgrade or better yet, get a better alternator?
Sure, he could. And if he's got the money to spend then I say go for it, but if he's not ready to drop $300+ for a good h/o alt then he should do those other things first to determine if a h/o alt is even needed. On systems up to about 1200-1500 watts rms a h/o alt probably isn't necessary, but once you go beyond that and start trying to drive your amp at 1/2ohm and all that you'll most likely need one. Alot of it depends on how power hungry your amp is too. Not all amps are the same. I used to run a Phoenix Gold Ryval 600 watt amp and it made my lights dim like crazy. Next setup was an AudioQue AQ1200D @ 2ohms 870 watts rms and the lights still dimmed a little bit but nowhere near as bad as with the Phoenix Gold amp.

Can't wait to see how the dimming is with my Sundown SAZ-1500D

Originally Posted by trewyn15
thought he was talking about the subs, you knew what i meant.
Umm, no, I didn't. I've learned not to assume.
 
Old May 16, 2010 | 08:54 PM
  #79  
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going to go get my new HU tomorrow. I've decided on this guy from alpine.
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/iva-w505p1/

I hope the install goes smoothly.
 
Old May 16, 2010 | 09:03 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by theeohiostate6
going to go get my new HU tomorrow. I've decided on this guy from alpine.
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/iva-w505p1/

I hope the install goes smoothly.
looks good, there are some that dont fit because of the length and im not sure if this is one.

04montels
 

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