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  #11  
Old 02-15-2011, 11:19 PM
Join Date: Oct 2010
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Originally Posted by walkingonabullet
no, it always should be their, because when one battery is half full, it'll start to pull from the other to charge its self, and the other will tug back to charge its self back up. sort of a tug of war. both batterys are always connected when the stereo is on, because the isolator turns on witht he amps, because its on the remote wire.
The only way one battery will be half full is if you're running the stereo with the car off, right?
 
  #12  
Old 02-16-2011, 08:26 AM
Join Date: Dec 2010
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well it doesnt have to be exactly 50% in fact i dont think 50% starts the car, but thats not the point...its that if its lower than full it'll pull back and forth and charge each other.
 
  #13  
Old 02-16-2011, 09:39 AM
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I don't know where you're getting your info from but it's a proven fact that an isolator is only needed if you plan on running the stereo system with the car off for extended periods of time, that way the battery being isolated is the only one the audio system will draw on and you won't have a problem starting your car at all.

Other than that, an isolator is a waste of money and won't accomplish anything. Both of your batteries should be within half a volt of each other anyway, if there is a discrepancy larger than that then it's a battery issue and the battery needs to be replaced, not a battery isolator issue. So guys who go to car shows and run their systems for long time, isolator would be a good idea....guys who just want the added current capacity another battery gives and won't play the system with the car off, no isolator needed.
 
  #14  
Old 02-16-2011, 10:00 AM
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X 2 ^^ DBS MC
I know that with mine I did the big 3 and I am running my car with 2 extra batteries and no isolator and it has been working great . If the car is going to be off at a show I would put a battery tender on the car because when I am competing at the event I would not ever want my system to be under 14.1 v going into a db drag or a SPL event . The day before the show I tend to put the car on a charger for the night just to make sure that I am going to the show a max capacity and I tend not to run the system for fun at the show unless I am done competing or I have the option of using my battery tender at the event
 

Last edited by Blazed SS; 02-16-2011 at 11:09 AM.
  #15  
Old 02-16-2011, 11:12 AM
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[quote=bonang;296378]20ft of 1/0 KnuKonzeptz wire (Blue)
15 of 1/0 KnuKonzeptz wire (Black)
Yellow Top Under the Hood
Kenetick 600 In The Trunk
Distro Blocks and Fuse holders and Circut Breakers

Single 12" FI SSD Dual 1ohm sub
Kenwood 6.5 components (Mid Bass) in the doors Tweets in the Dash
Nothing in the rear (6x9s are there but not running)
Kenwood - KDC-X993
Bass Remote
X1200M eXcelon Gouriki Mono Digital Power Amplifier
Kenwood eXcelon 4ch (forget the model)
Custom Sub Box Built by me, fiberglassed,Rockgaurded and carpeted
-Box is tuned to 35 hrz for music
-Still hit a
300sqft of Hushmat in the doors and Trunk(rear seat area not done yet)
-Three layers in the doors two in the trunk

Under the Hood(Zip ties are now black)
/quote]
looks like it is a great set up man !!
 
  #16  
Old 02-16-2011, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Blazed SS
X 2 ^^ DBS MC
I know that with mine I did the big 3 and I am running my car with 2 extra batteries and no isolator and it has been working great . If the car is going to be off at a show I would put a battery tender on the car because when I am competing at the event I would not ever want my system to be under 14.1 v going into a db drag or a SPL event . The day before the show I tend to put the car on a charger for the night just to make sure that I am going to the show a max capacity and I tend not to run the system for fun at the show unless I am done competing or I have the option of using my battery tender at the event
I second This Post..

for shows it allows me to use my strobes, neon, stereo and all other accessories that are needed. I usually play the system at a low respectable level, I usually play music videos since I have the DVD screen. It gets played all day. 10 to 10 sat and sun at the OC Maryland Car show
 
  #17  
Old 02-16-2011, 09:04 PM
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Wow who new I would start an debate........sorry guys about that.

I am getting a high current relay shortly. THe car does not sit long enough to drain. Plus at shows I have a power supply. But I dont use it sometimes since I am not near a plug at the time. So lets just drop the whole isolator thing please.

THanks for the comments. I am currently stocking up on parts for the car to get the doors done. Each door will have 8" sub two 6.5s full range two tweets the A pillers will have tweet and 5.25 and tweet in the dash.

The trunk will stay the same but I might get another X1200 for the second coil of the sub.
 
  #18  
Old 02-17-2011, 05:42 PM
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On a completely unrelated note--how are you liking the tweets up on your dash? I'm toying with the idea of putting a couple 3 1/2's up there to help balance out the diff. between the tweets and 6 1/2's. any suggestions/tips?
 
  #19  
Old 02-18-2011, 09:46 AM
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That panel just pulls out but watch out for the light sensor, I droped mine and it took 30 mins to get it back up lol

When that panel is removed there is pastic that is right under it, I hadt to cut it out (very hard since it is almost next to the window)

I only cut what I needed.

The posistion made a world of difference placing them in the dash. before you go cutting set them on the dash and listen to the music.
 
  #20  
Old 02-18-2011, 10:20 AM
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it took 30 mins to get it back up
hehe! (i'm pretty immature for being 23)
 


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